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-   -   Cutting a 1/8" groove in 1x2 - guidance needed (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/cutting-1-8-groove-1x2-guidance-needed-185682/)

new2woodwrk 11-21-2017 01:11 PM

Cutting a 1/8" groove in 1x2 - guidance needed
 
Project:
I'm attempting to make a grooved frame around a 2'x4' pegboard - 1/8 thick"

I'm trying to cut a groove down the middle of the thin edge of a 1x2 with a single blade diablo 50T .098 kerf blade (3/32?) - not a dado set.

I'm having great difficulty getting the exact fence placement correct.

I've set my fence at 1/4" and make a cut - when I flip the 1x2 and run the cut, there is still a piece left in the center.

It's really confusing me what I need to set the fence at to get this cut so I can just flip the board to get the groove cut in 2 passes.

I thought I had it calculated correctly on a test board and when I went to use the real boards, the center piece was left and I had to make a 3rd pass and chisel out the center. Ugh!

Thoughts?

Thanks as always in advance

Steve Neul 11-21-2017 02:24 PM

Since the cut is wider than the blade I would run the board over the saw twice with both sides going against the fence. This should make it perfectly centered and wide enough to accept the pegboard.

TimPa 11-21-2017 02:41 PM

the edge of a 1x2 is 3/4" wide. so a 1/4" distance from each edge will result in a 1/4" left in the middle. so with less than a 1/8" kerf cut, a 3rd pass is required. however, the 1/4 groove is more than needed to surround a 1/8" thick pegboard. add a little (1/32") to the 1/4" fence spacing (9/32"), and try again, flipping the board as you did this time. this should result in 2 passes, and a 3/16 groove.

new2woodwrk 11-21-2017 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Neul (Post 1805010)
Since the cut is wider than the blade I would run the board over the saw twice with both sides going against the fence. This should make it perfectly centered and wide enough to accept the pegboard.

Steve, this is what I've been doing but I get left over down the middle

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimPa (Post 1805034)
the edge of a 1x2 is 3/4" wide. so a 1/4" distance from each edge will result in a 1/4" left in the middle. so with less than a 1/8" kerf cut, a 3rd pass is required. however, the 1/4 groove is more than needed to surround a 1/8" thick pegboard. add a little (1/32") to the 1/4" fence spacing (9/32"), and try again, flipping the board as you did this time. this should result in 2 passes, and a 3/16 groove.

Thanks, I'm going to try this later with a 2nd board :(

FrankC 11-21-2017 04:21 PM

If your board is a true 3/4" thick set the fence 5/16" from the blade. Running through twice with each face against the fence will cut a 1/8" groove. Use a finger board to hold board tight against the fence. Bear in mind that any variation from the exact 5/16" setting will double when the cuts are made.

Steve Neul 11-21-2017 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by new2woodwrk (Post 1805066)
Steve, this is what I've been doing but I get left over down the middle


Thanks, I'm going to try this later with a 2nd board :(

If you are getting a different size dado in the middle you blade is either dull or the fence is not exactly parallel with the blade and the blade is bending toward the slot.

sanchez 11-21-2017 06:43 PM

274 Attachment(s)
If you have left over in the middle, your fence is either too close or too far from the blade. Move it in or out a bit, then use a test piece exactly the same as your workpiece.

I see you are using the pass, flip, pass method to ensure centered grooves. I like this. It's super easy, no measuring.

Since the panel is 0.125, and your blade is 0.098, you just need the fence a bit to the right or left of centering the groove.

I like to mark a line in the center of my test piece, center that with the blade, run two passes, then move the fence just a hair until the panel fits. Remember that when doing the pass, flip, pass method, moving the fence gets you double


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