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post #1 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Question countertop glue up

I am building the coutertop for an island in my kitchen that is roughly 31" x 61". My wife loves the way the butcher blocks look when the boards do not run full length. I have seen many glue ups with full length boards but have never seen a glue up done with multiple shorter boards. Does anyone have any tips for making this go smoothly? I was planning on gluing up in multiple sessions to make this easier. Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 03:45 PM
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did that once .....

I had a truck load of milled shorts in hard Maple mostly 24" or a bit longer. They were planed to uniform thickness and width... very important!

We used West System epoxy and mixed a sufficient quantity... very important! A tray with brushes for all 3 of us to slather on the epoxy.... very important!

The base table for the glue up was a 4 ft X 10 ft spindle shaper table, cast iron top where all the pieces could be laid flat to start with, then clamped. Slow and easy goes it to get all the vertical joints closed up A tap with a mallet worked to squeeze out the epoxy and close up the joint. In your case a solid core door covered with a poly sheet would work OK.

Have enough clamps previously opened to the width on hand. When you get a bunch of clamps on you can relax and wait for the glue to dry.... A serious "bump" will keep the whole thing from sticking to the table after enough time has passed without shifting any of the pieces.

The shop owner/buddy has a 42" wide belt sander to level out the surfaces one side first then the other. The whole top weighed a ton .... 34" X 78" X 2 1/2" thick.
Too nice for a workbench top, but used for that anyway.


http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ha...choices-30457/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #3 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcampbell14 View Post
I am building the coutertop for an island in my kitchen that is roughly 31" x 61". My wife loves the way the butcher blocks look when the boards do not run full length. I have seen many glue ups with full length boards but have never seen a glue up done with multiple shorter boards. Does anyone have any tips for making this go smoothly? I was planning on gluing up in multiple sessions to make this easier. Thanks!
I could offer a lot of tips and advice but not sure you have the experience or resources to pull it off.It could turn into a mess quick>

What tools do you have?For this project a jointer would be the first and foremost tool.All of these boards would need to be flat and square.Even gluing up in several pieces you will need a way to true the final surface.Many ways to do it with handtools and machinery but some are much easier and less time consuming than others.
Not as simple as it sounds if you want good results.
How thick will it be and what type of wood?
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcampbell14 View Post
I am building the coutertop for an island in my kitchen that is roughly 31" x 61". My wife loves the way the butcher blocks look when the boards do not run full length. I have seen many glue ups with full length boards but have never seen a glue up done with multiple shorter boards. Does anyone have any tips for making this go smoothly? I was planning on gluing up in multiple sessions to make this easier. Thanks!
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As small as your top is that should be easy and you should be able to glue it all up in one go round if you move fast and have the proper clamps...
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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yes exactly like the pictures above. I have an table saw, 8" jointer, 15" planer, and stanley planes 4, 5 and 7. These are the tools I planned on using of this project. It will be about 2" thick and made from walnut. i also have a solid core door that i was planning on using for the glue up. I was planning on using tightbond III. do you really think the epoxy is a better choice?
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 08:55 PM
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it's about the "open" time for glue

The epoxy had a longer open time and was also what my buddy used for his laminated doors, and was on hand.
It will sand better and fill small gaps well.

You should check the open time on any glue you are considering. You may have to do it in 2 sections to allow for clamping up before it starts to set up, I donno? In my experience glue ups are always a bit stressful, but that's probably just me.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-20-2015 at 09:04 PM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mcampbell14 View Post
yes exactly like the pictures above. I have an table saw, 8" jointer, 15" planer, and stanley planes 4, 5 and 7. These are the tools I planned on using of this project. It will be about 2" thick and made from walnut. i also have a solid core door that i was planning on using for the glue up. I was planning on using tightbond III. do you really think the epoxy is a better choice?
You have almost everything you 'need' tool wise. I only 'needed' and used a tablesaw, a planer, and a chopsaw to do what I did in the pictures above. (not counting clamps and surfacing tools of course...)

I used the T3 and have had no issues to date with anything trying to come loose or go south on me.

If you lined the door / work surface with wax paper FIRST - your glue up will not stick to it AND depending on how you hold this table up you will be able to reach into the middle of it from either side to be able to clamp things down as you go along. I went with Melamine above to accomplish the same thing that will cost you some waxpaper and time to do...

A floating work surface and the proper clamps will let you cheaply get into the middle and push down while you come from the sides and clamp together.

How 'true' and 'flat' you can keep your work surface while you do all of this clamping is all up to you and how much time you are willing to spend setting it all up. If yours is really going to be that thick - You need your glue up to be as flat and true as possible because it will be hard to bend that to 'fit' later...
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-20-2015, 11:49 PM
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I would make the top much thinner to save $$$ then use a cheaper wood to fill in the remaining thickness.
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-21-2015, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcampbell14 View Post
yes exactly like the pictures above. I have an table saw, 8" jointer, 15" planer, and stanley planes 4, 5 and 7. These are the tools I planned on using of this project. It will be about 2" thick and made from walnut. i also have a solid core door that i was planning on using for the glue up. I was planning on using tightbond III. do you really think the epoxy is a better choice?
Sounds like your good to go.Sorry if I misjudged.Just not a big fan of wood countertops myself.Love the look just not the maintenance .

Nice top Oneal.Love the look of the different woods and the layout.
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post #10 of 13 Old 07-21-2015, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by OnealWoodworking View Post
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As small as your top is that should be easy and you should be able to glue it all up in one go round if you move fast and have the proper clamps...

Mods, please move this post to the "Canine Woodworker's" section...it does not belong here amongst us regular guys.
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-21-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by OnealWoodworking View Post
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As small as your top is that should be easy and you should be able to glue it all up in one go round if you move fast and have the proper clamps...
Oneal,
I thought those feet were first a Visla, but now I'm guessing a Doberman.
What's the answer?
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post #12 of 13 Old 07-21-2015, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by OnealWoodworking View Post
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As small as your top is that should be easy and you should be able to glue it all up in one go round if you move fast and have the proper clamps...
Man...you really need to cut your nails....
😉
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-21-2015, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
Oneal,
I thought those feet were first a Visla, but now I'm guessing a Doberman.
What's the answer?
You guessed it. Dobermans...

Shop (home as well for that matter) is in a 'not so great' part of town and fools will walk right in and steal your stuff if you are not paying very close attention...

This does NOT happen with the girls around as they despise strangers and treat them with extreme crappiness (unless properly introduced).


For 'loss prevention' purposes in a woodworking type environment - Dobermans are awesome. Takes less than a minute to clean BOTH of them off at the end of a day with a regular air blower and 125 PSI and they follow commands like you are pressing buttons on a remote control...

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