Old Methane Gas Cloud
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Huntington Beach, California
OK, The cross cutting wasn't so bad, FOR AN EXPERIENCED woodworker. He had the piece under control and pushed it through the cut. Essentially it was a rip cut with a large off fall. And the off fall was larger than the piece being cut.
He used a Forstner bit on the back of the drawer. That's not countersinking. I'm not even why he thought that it was necessary. At the hardware store I can get a box of 100 of the correct length screws for less than six bucks.
Usually when installing drawer handles the holes are a bit larger than the screw body size. The screw used is usually an 8 x 32 with a washer head (a.k.a. Truss head) and the hole is 3/16". Why you ask? Look at the finished product. I only got one eye but the handles don't look very straight to me.
When he made the template, it did not look like the holes were drilled straight. This reared its ugly head when he was attaching one of the handles. It looked a bit tight to me.
Finally, what he did correctly was to drill from the outside to the inside. Besides the chip out issue, if the holes aren't square to the surface, it is possible to get the handles to thread up with the screws. Sometimes you have to start one screw before the other and always in that order for that handle.
As for me, I prefer a commercial (Rockler) jig and a spring loaded center punch (From HF) to mark the starting point for the holes. But that's just me.
Use the right tool for the job.
Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.