Corner Radi Templates - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Corner Radi Templates

Hello, I am wanting to get some Corner Radius Routing Templates for my Router Table use.

I did see that Woodpecker had some at one time, I see that some guys make their own. I also see that

Rockler has a set of their own. Those look inexpensive and look like they would work.


I am wanting to buy some and wondering what some of you guys use ?


Thanks for any suggestions,
Mike
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 11:30 AM
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I can't answer your question because I've never used one. But I wanted to thank you for asking because until I Googled that I didn't even know they existed. My method is crude - cut the radius on a bandsaw and smooth with a disc sander. I think I'm gonna look into the Rockler set, but I'm gonna wait to see what other replies this thread gets.

Dave in CT, USA
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 02:25 PM
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Woodpecker released a jig for rounding corners as a one-time-tool a few years back. I bought the set and find it makes it so easy to round the corners I look for excuses to do so. Has at about ten different radius and I think it even came with “chamfered” type corners as an option that I didn’t buy. As are most things from Woodpeckers, it was pricy, but it sure works well.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 08:39 PM
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If they're in your budget then buy them. I've got a quick and easy way to make them on the router table. I usually make them from MDF. 6" X 6" or larger square piece works well....need a 90 degree corner. Pick the radius and measure that amount along each 90 degree side. Draw intersecting lines from those 2 points.. Drill a hole at the intersection. Clamp a flat board to the router table to support the piece of MDF and drill a hole halfway through it the same diameter as the hole you drilled in the MDF. I use the smooth end of the drill bit that was used to drill through the MDF and halfway through the support board as the pivot. Mount a straight bit in the table mounted router and install the fence and align it with the front edge of the router bit. Move the support board and MDF toward the router bit and fence and align the pivot point with the router bit. Rotate the MDF clockwise until it is flat against the fence. Clamp the pivot board to the router table. Turn on the router and rotate the MDF counter clockwise into the bit. The fence will stop the rotation. Note: the opening in the router table fence needs to be wide enough to allow the corner of the MDF to clear it during the MDF rotation.....or you could cut it off beforehand.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 10:28 PM
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I didn't know anyone made templates you could buy. I've always just made my own templates out of plywood. In any case it's not as simple as it looks. If you don't cut the radius pretty close to the radius with a bandsaw or jig saw the wood will tear out in chunks if you go against the grain with it.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 10:45 PM
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It looks like you have to hold it in place while you’re doing the routing. I’d rather have both hands holding the board.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-01-2018, 11:47 PM
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I’m not sure a template for use on a router table would be all that useful, most table tops are to big to make that practical.

With the woodpecker jig you clamp the jig and table top to the workbench with two clamps and use both hands to hold the router.

I agree, success is assured by cutting as close to the desired radius as possible with a jigsaw first.


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post #8 of 11 Old 01-02-2018, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-02-2018, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Burke View Post
This video is dead wrong and down right dangerous. In the video he shows just holding the jig on the wood to make the cut. Having probably done this hundreds of thousands of times over the years I can tell you eventually it will get away from the jig and beat you with it if not draw your hands into the router bit. Running a radius if I'm only doing a few I will nail the jig to the wood. If it's something used a lot I will make a jig which uses a hold down clamp to hole the wood in place as it only has to get away from the jig the tiniest amount to blow up in your face. https://www.kinequip.com/destaco-205...iABEgIC-vD_BwE
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-03-2018, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
This video is dead wrong and down right dangerous. In the video he shows just holding the jig on the wood to make the cut. Having probably done this hundreds of thousands of times over the years I can tell you eventually it will get away from the jig and beat you with it if not draw your hands into the router bit. Running a radius if I'm only doing a few I will nail the jig to the wood. If it's something used a lot I will make a jig which uses a hold down clamp to hole the wood in place as it only has to get away from the jig the tiniest amount to blow up in your face. https://www.kinequip.com/destaco-205...iABEgIC-vD_BwE
It looked to me that there are a couple of pins on the front edge of the jig that are held against the leading edge of the wood. The jig has a groove where the operator put his fingers to apply pressure to hold the jig's pins tight against the leading edge of the wood.
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-03-2018, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMMIEM View Post
It looked to me that there are a couple of pins on the front edge of the jig that are held against the leading edge of the wood. The jig has a groove where the operator put his fingers to apply pressure to hold the jig's pins tight against the leading edge of the wood.
I know. I saw the pins on the jig. Believe me it's not enough. The board only has to slip only a little bit and the router will suck it in and you will think a bomb exploded in your hands. The wood needs to be more firmly attached to the jig then that.
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