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-   -   Clear finish, Birch, without ambering (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/clear-finish-birch-without-ambering-193353/)

plasma800 02-07-2018 12:19 PM

Clear finish, Birch, without ambering
 
Hi all,

I'm finishing up a skill builder credenza, coming out great.

I want to finish it with a nice, clear finish but I don't want the amber color of a wipe on poly.

I tried some min wax polycrylic on a test piece, and while I like the results, I can't quite imagine how I would get this done effectively on the long top of this piece as it gets gummy fast.

What I have not tried is mixing it with a little water, but even so, the top is a large piece and I don't have a sprayer.

Any tips here? Even the use of a different product.

gmcsmoke 02-07-2018 03:38 PM

you shoudl be able to brush a waterborne poly on a large top without it setting up. I really like general finishes high performance.

Quickstep 02-07-2018 03:46 PM

General Finishes makes an extender for their waterborne finishes to extend the drying time. Even if you use the extender, I wouldn't predict much luck trying to wipe a waterborne finish on a large area. I think you're going to need to brush it.


As you probably know, waterborne finishes will raise the grain and thinning them with water will raise it more, so be sure to raise the grain first and then re-sand before going to your finishing step.

Steve Neul 02-07-2018 04:13 PM

Any finish that is an acrylic will remain clear. It's mainly nitrocelulose lacquer and oil based finishes that has this problem. Most waterborne finishes are acrylic.

As far as applying polycryilc, it's already too thin to be adding water to it. The easiest solution would be to get a cheap sprayer and spray it. Harbor Freight sells sprayers that would be good for wood finishes. I use the #97855 siphon sprayer myself. Spraying a finish can eliminate a lot of problems. I don't like waterborne finishes because they raise the grain and roughen the wood. Then it takes a bunch of coats sanding between coats to get the finish smooth. With a sprayer you could seal the wood with a vinyl sealer and then two coats of cab-acrylic lacquer. The whole process from start to finish in warm weather in less than two hours. The finish dries that quick.

plasma800 02-08-2018 12:37 AM

Thanks for the replies, I'll have to give it some thought.

plasma800 02-08-2018 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Neul (Post 1880009)
Any finish that is an acrylic will remain clear. It's mainly nitrocelulose lacquer and oil based finishes that has this problem. Most waterborne finishes are acrylic.

As far as applying polycryilc, it's already too thin to be adding water to it. The easiest solution would be to get a cheap sprayer and spray it. Harbor Freight sells sprayers that would be good for wood finishes. I use the #97855 siphon sprayer myself. Spraying a finish can eliminate a lot of problems. I don't like waterborne finishes because they raise the grain and roughen the wood. Then it takes a bunch of coats sanding between coats to get the finish smooth. With a sprayer you could seal the wood with a vinyl sealer and then two coats of cab-acrylic lacquer. The whole process from start to finish in warm weather in less than two hours. The finish dries that quick.

What do you use as your air source and at what PSI for this gun?

Steve Neul 02-08-2018 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plasma800 (Post 1880321)
What do you use as your air source and at what PSI for this gun?

Any air compressor would work for spraying paint however the larger area you spray the bigger compressor you would need. You could spray something the size of a chair with one of these pancake compressors made for a nail gun. If you were doing something the size of a dining room table top with a pancake compressor you would run out of air when you got two or three feet into it. When spraying a large surface you can't start and stop, it leaves a mark in the finish. Once you start a large surface you have to keep going until you reach the other end. To do a table top you would need a compressor somewhere in the 4.5 cfm at 100 psi range for that. The amount of air pressure would vary from gun to gun and would depend on how thick the finish was. With the guns I have I start with 40 psi and go from there. If the finish is thick and doesn't spray right I may raise the pressure up between 50-60 psi. If the finish is especially thin I may lower the pressure down to around 30 psi.

plasma800 02-08-2018 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Neul (Post 1880377)
Any air compressor would work for spraying paint however the larger area you spray the bigger compressor you would need. You could spray something the size of a chair with one of these pancake compressors made for a nail gun. If you were doing something the size of a dining room table top with a pancake compressor you would run out of air when you got two or three feet into it. When spraying a large surface you can't start and stop, it leaves a mark in the finish. Once you start a large surface you have to keep going until you reach the other end. To do a table top you would need a compressor somewhere in the 4.5 cfm at 100 psi range for that. The amount of air pressure would vary from gun to gun and would depend on how thick the finish was. With the guns I have I start with 40 psi and go from there. If the finish is thick and doesn't spray right I may raise the pressure up between 50-60 psi. If the finish is especially thin I may lower the pressure down to around 30 psi.

I have something like one of these
https://www.dewalt.com/en-us/product...pressor/d55168


It's like a year or two older model of the same thing, 15 gallon, 5.x continuous at 90PSI

thanks so much for the info.. AGAIN... you always have a great answer to anything I ask... can I come work for you for a while??

Steve Neul 02-08-2018 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plasma800 (Post 1881225)
I have something like one of these
https://www.dewalt.com/en-us/product...pressor/d55168


It's like a year or two older model of the same thing, 15 gallon, 5.x continuous at 90PSI

thanks so much for the info.. AGAIN... you always have a great answer to anything I ask... can I come work for you for a while??

I don't think you would like working for me. I'm personally getting fed up with working for me myself. Instead of building things business has regressed into washing windows and changing light bulbs for old folks. Until this week I don't think I've built anything since 2016.

plasma800 02-08-2018 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Neul (Post 1881265)
I don't think you would like working for me. I'm personally getting fed up with working for me myself. Instead of building things business has regressed into washing windows and changing light bulbs for old folks. Until this week I don't think I've built anything since 2016.

I'll wash some windows, you teach me what you know... we'll think of some stuff to build and sell. I'm decent in that department.


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