Cleaning rusty tools - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaning rusty tools

Need a advise or tricks anybody has to clean tools from rust,i used some
man made pumice from a hardware store and is too rough, any ideas?
thanks in advance
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 09:16 PM
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Real small tools like center punches ,I throw in the rock tumbler with some fish tank gravel.Itchy
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Most of what i have to clean is a bunch of chisels and some planes i got from a state sale
Thanks
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 09:57 PM
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NAVAL JELLY works well you can find it at most hardware stores.
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 10:00 PM
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Oh and if it is pitted use a very fine wet/dry sand paper to clean it up.
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thankyou all for the help
Nado
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 10:49 PM
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Thought of trying the wire wheel on your bench grinder ,works well for me when I forget 1 in back of the truck in the rainy season.
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-28-2010, 10:57 PM
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I normally just lightly brush with a stainless wire brush and apply a rust converter, changes the rust to a black oxide type finish. You can get the rust converter from hardware stores or auto supplies. If you want 'em real pretty, you will have to polish them down to bare metal and spray 'em with a clear varnish to prevent further rust.

Ruining wood for 35 years....one piece at a time.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-29-2010, 09:12 AM
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If you have a number of tools to clean you could try electrolysis. It is a fairly simple process using Boraxo in water and running a low voltage current through the liquid. The tool is attached to one side of the circuit, and a piece of iron is attached to the other side of the circuit. Both are immersed in the water, with space between them, and the current carries the rust away from the tool and deposits it on the piece of iron. I believe the tool is attached to the negative side of the circuit. A car battery hooked up to a charger is a good source for your low voltage.

Gerry
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-29-2010, 02:14 PM
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I have always used a wire-wheel drill attachment to clean rusted tools and parts. It works like a charm, and rarely mars the surface. Then I put a spot of WD40 on a rag and wipe it down. Good as new! Almost... hehe!
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-30-2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skwerly View Post
I have always used a wire-wheel drill attachment to clean rusted tools and parts. It works like a charm, and rarely mars the surface. Then I put a spot of WD40 on a rag and wipe it down. Good as new! Almost... hehe!

Awwwwww Yes ! where would we be without WD40 and duct tape


Chili

I nailed my wood-shop test.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-30-2010, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everybody for your ideas, im working on it
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-31-2010, 05:45 AM
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Evaporust. Works like a charm. Available at Lee Valley.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,43040

You can also get it at Tractor Supply.
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-31-2010, 07:31 AM
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I have heard that potato will clear a little rust. I do not know how.

Bill
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-31-2010, 08:57 AM
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A lot of metal detectorists use the method Gerry describes.Itchy
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-01-2010, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered some Evapo Rust so see how it does
I let you all know how i did
Thanks
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-01-2010, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry KIERNAN View Post
If you have a number of tools to clean you could try electrolysis. It is a fairly simple process using Boraxo in water and running a low voltage current through the liquid. The tool is attached to one side of the circuit, and a piece of iron is attached to the other side of the circuit. Both are immersed in the water, with space between them, and the current carries the rust away from the tool and deposits it on the piece of iron. I believe the tool is attached to the negative side of the circuit. A car battery hooked up to a charger is a good source for your low voltage.

Gerry
This works great. I've done it several times with good success. Google it and you'll find detailed instructions. It may seem difficult but it really is very simple to do.

Brad
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-24-2010, 07:58 PM
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Just a caveat regarding electrolytic de-rusting. It is line of sight. That means if you have only a single anode on one side of your tank, only the side of the cathode (that is the thing you want the rust removed from) that directly faces the anode will be de-rusted. The way I do it is to have several anodes connected together that surround the piece I want de-rusted. Just MAKE SURE the anode(s) and cathode(s) do not touch.

I use a battery charger for mine. Not all battery chargers will work because some will detect the "short circuit" and shut off. Mine does that in "charge" mode, but if I switch it to "start" mode it works fine.

xeddog
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-25-2010, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xeddog View Post
Just a caveat regarding electrolytic de-rusting. It is line of sight. That means if you have only a single anode on one side of your tank, only the side of the cathode (that is the thing you want the rust removed from) that directly faces the anode will be de-rusted. The way I do it is to have several anodes connected together that surround the piece I want de-rusted. Just MAKE SURE the anode(s) and cathode(s) do not touch.

I use a battery charger for mine. Not all battery chargers will work because some will detect the "short circuit" and shut off. Mine does that in "charge" mode, but if I switch it to "start" mode it works fine.

xeddog
A battery hooked into the circuit should allow any charger to work. It doesn't have to be a really good battery.

Gerry
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-25-2010, 11:53 AM
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I just restored my dads old craftsman table saw that's been sitting for 22 yrs and used a wire brush and drill on the top. Surprisingly enough everything still works great. The top turned out great.
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