Capping oak steps - need advice - Page 7 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #121 of 138 Old 07-14-2016, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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2 thumbs up!!!! Did Lovey give 2 wings up?
Did you get a 12 inch Table Saw and 12 Inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw? Looks like you're gearing up for more projects!!!
Thanks and a talon up as well from Lovey. I'll know he really likes it when he poops on it.

10 inch table saw and 12 inch sliding compound miter saw, dual bevel. I don't see myself needing anything more than a 10 inch table saw. The 12 inch miter saw was necessary for the depth of the treads. As it is I had to manually complete the cut about 1/4 inch. Removing the landing tread tomorrow and leveling out the hall floor up to the new tread. then I'll install a temporary landing tread while I do the hall floor. the flooring has been cooking for about 4 days now and the new landing tread came today.
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post #122 of 138 Old 07-15-2016, 07:23 AM
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Thanks and a talon up as well from Lovey. I'll know he really likes it when he poops on it.

10 inch table saw and 12 inch sliding compound miter saw, dual bevel. I don't see myself needing anything more than a 10 inch table saw. The 12 inch miter saw was necessary for the depth of the treads. As it is I had to manually complete the cut about 1/4 inch. Removing the landing tread tomorrow and leveling out the hall floor up to the new tread. then I'll install a temporary landing tread while I do the hall floor. the flooring has been cooking for about 4 days now and the new landing tread came today.
Lovey's contribution is the sign of good luck, isn't it?
Poly should make it Lovey-proof!!!
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post #123 of 138 Old 07-15-2016, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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I posted this on another older thread but thought I might get some help here.

I just completed installing new stair treads except for the landing tread. I am installing click-lock engineered wood flooring over existing oak flooring in the upstairs hall. The oak flooring in the hall has a significant dip as it approaches the landing tread and I have been looking for some way to level it. I am interested in the LevelQuick product but their site states "Do not bond directly to hardwood...". Is there another product I can use or a method of using this product on hardwood? The level difference is about 1/4 inch sloping up to the main floor over about 6 inches and about 36 inches wide.

My current approach is to rip up the existing flooring that is sloping and simply install the correct height wood to level with the main floor. Not sure if this is the best approach but I need to level the floor before installing the new click-lock flooring.
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post #124 of 138 Old 07-15-2016, 01:45 PM
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I posted this on another older thread but thought I might get some help here.

I just completed installing new stair treads except for the landing tread. I am installing click-lock engineered wood flooring over existing oak flooring in the upstairs hall. The oak flooring in the hall has a significant dip as it approaches the landing tread and I have been looking for some way to level it. I am interested in the LevelQuick product but their site states "Do not bond directly to hardwood...". Is there another product I can use or a method of using this product on hardwood? The level difference is about 1/4 inch sloping up to the main floor over about 6 inches and about 36 inches wide.

My current approach is to rip up the existing flooring that is sloping and simply install the correct height wood to level with the main floor. Not sure if this is the best approach but I need to level the floor before installing the new click-lock flooring.



How about taking some Aquabar B or roofing felt and do a topographical type build up. As an example, assuming it's a dip, lay a piece across the 6 inches. Make the next piece 5 inches and center it in the middle of the dip. Make the next piece 4 inches and center it in the middle of the dip. Make the next piece(s) etc. Of course you might need more layers in the deepest part. This way the dip slowly transitions back to the level you want.
Aquabar B is a vapor retarder that is used instead of roofing felt..Aquabar B is virtually odorless and clean to work with.
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post #125 of 138 Old 07-15-2016, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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How about taking some Aquabar B or roofing felt and do a topographical type build up. As an example, assuming it's a dip, lay a piece across the 6 inches. Make the next piece 5 inches and center it in the middle of the dip. Make the next piece 4 inches and center it in the middle of the dip. Make the next piece(s) etc. Of course you might need more layers in the deepest part. This way the dip slowly transitions back to the level you want.
Aquabar B is a vapor retarder that is used instead of roofing felt..Aquabar B is virtually odorless and clean to work with.
Yet another great tip learned for this project, thanks. I will definitely look into that. Now that I've taken a closer look at the floor it's kind of a micro roller coaster. There are some parts the felt might work but others are simply slight rises or dips. The worst is at the landing tread. I got the original landing tread out today and discovered the sub floor has about a 3/16" difference under the original oak flooring across the width of the stairs.

I believe the culprit for the the gap is/was a poorly installed spike when the house was built. It was higher than other spikes and with some difficulty I was able to remove it. I tried driving a nail in it's place but could only get as far as the original spike. I drove the nail an inch or so to one side without any problems so I suspect there is something blocking the original path.

With the landing tread removed and the two pieces of flooring behind it also removed I should be able to install a level base for the new landing tread. The original tread was anchored to the stringers by one nail on each side and came out easily once it was cut in half. I used bolt cutters to cut the two nails as short as possible and then drove the nails back into the stringers. I will probably cut the ends off the old landing tread and make a flush plug, so to speak, to blind out the mortises in the stringers. I'm not sure the new landing tread will be the right height if I try and use the mortises. The new tread is not the same thickness either.

With respect to the wavy floor I have added another tool to my arsenal, a belt sander.
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post #126 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I have the floor as level as it's going to be but it seems there may be a 'high' joist issue that makes the landing tread area off by quite a bit from one side of the landing area to the other. Anyway, there's nothing I can do about that. I have even had a coupe of pros look at it and say the same thing.

I have another question if someone can help. Once the new flooring is down and I am ready to install the new landing tread I am not sure how to attach it to the new riser and sub floor (the original oak floor in this case). The new landing tread is a lip over type that is designed to cover the edge of the new flooring. It will sit on the edge of the original oak flooring and new riser for support and is fully exposed. Is there any way I can mechanically fasten the landing tread besides adhesive? I would like to use a couple of nails or screws to help keep it secure.
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post #127 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 03:55 PM
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I used construction adhesive and 8d or 10d finish nails one regular landing treads.

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post #128 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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I used construction adhesive and 8d or 10d finish nails one regular landing treads.
But that's the problem. There is nowhere to drive the nail unless I pin punch them below the surface and use wood filler for the holes. That's something I'm trying to avoid. I followed the link you provided but am unsure what you are pointing me to. Are you suggesting I join that site as well and post my question?
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post #129 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 10:53 PM
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But that's the problem. There is nowhere to drive the nail unless I pin punch them below the surface and use wood filler for the holes. That's something I'm trying to avoid. I followed the link you provided but am unsure what you are pointing me to. Are you suggesting I join that site as well and post my question?
Yes, you would have to set the nails. The link is in my signature, it is on all my posts.

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post #130 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, you would have to set the nails. The link is in my signature, it is on all my posts.
I see, thanks. I will do what I have to to make certain it is secured properly. I just could not think of the word "set" in my last reply.
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post #131 of 138 Old 07-24-2016, 11:25 PM
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I have the floor as level as it's going to be but it seems there may be a 'high' joist issue that makes the landing tread area off by quite a bit from one side of the landing area to the other. Anyway, there's nothing I can do about that. I have even had a coupe of pros look at it and say the same thing.

I have another question if someone can help. Once the new flooring is down and I am ready to install the new landing tread I am not sure how to attach it to the new riser and sub floor (the original oak floor in this case). The new landing tread is a lip over type that is designed to cover the edge of the new flooring. It will sit on the edge of the original oak flooring and new riser for support and is fully exposed. Is there any way I can mechanically fasten the landing tread besides adhesive? I would like to use a couple of nails or screws to help keep it secure.
PL Premium Adhesive. I like trim heads screws rather than nails. Countersink and fill them or cut plugs and plug them. If you are careful with the color/grain match they will be nearly invisible. In case they are somewhat visible space them so that they line up and look 'neat'.
You can make contrasting plugs too.
Attach it to the sub floor....not the new flooring.
A landing tread is a high stress area so make sure it is secure.
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post #132 of 138 Old 07-25-2016, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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PL Premium Adhesive. I like trim heads screws rather than nails. Countersink and fill them or cut plugs and plug them. If you are careful with the color/grain match they will be nearly invisible. In case they are somewhat visible space them so that they line up and look 'neat'.
You can make contrasting plugs too.
Attach it to the sub floor....not the new flooring.
A landing tread is a high stress area so make sure it is secure.
Those are my thoughts too, thanks. What spacing would you suggest between the screws? Is one at either end enough? That's all the original landing tread had. One nail driven through the stringer on each side. Of course the original landing tread was also a mortise and the new one will not be.
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post #133 of 138 Old 07-25-2016, 11:42 AM
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Those are my thoughts too, thanks. What spacing would you suggest between the screws? Is one at either end enough? That's all the original landing tread had. One nail driven through the stringer on each side. Of course the original landing tread was also a mortise and the new one will not be.
Personally I like more.....but I tend to overdo. I'd do at least 3. Not knowing how the hardwood subfloor is attached I'd used screws long enough to penetrate it and go into the subfloor below it.
Also, if there is a surface film finish on the hardwood subfloor below you may want to scuff it or remove so the adhesive won't be attached to just a film finish.
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post #134 of 138 Old 07-25-2016, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Personally I like more.....but I tend to overdo. I'd do at least 3. Not knowing how the hardwood subfloor is attached I'd used screws long enough to penetrate it and go into the subfloor below it.
Also, if there is a surface film finish on the hardwood subfloor below you may want to scuff it or remove so the adhesive won't be attached to just a film finish.
The new landing tread will not be over the old hardwood floor except for the lip over at the new flooring. The new landing tread will be over a new riser and probably spacer. I used poplar for the other risers but plan on using oak for this last one and any spacer if it's feasible so the landing tread has adequate support. I'll take some pictures when the storm is over.
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post #135 of 138 Old 07-25-2016, 09:50 PM
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The new landing tread will not be over the old hardwood floor except for the lip over at the new flooring. The new landing tread will be over a new riser and probably spacer. I used poplar for the other risers but plan on using oak for this last one and any spacer if it's feasible so the landing tread has adequate support. I'll take some pictures when the storm is over.
How wide is the new landing tread?
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post #136 of 138 Old 07-25-2016, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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How wide is the new landing tread?
34 1/2" wide X 3" deep including the lip over.
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post #137 of 138 Old 08-04-2016, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Drum roll please :) The steps and hall floor are complete except for the trim. My phone committed suicide or I would have posted during the work. The landing tread took as long as it took me to do the entire hall floor. The new landing tread is secured with three trim screws 2 inches long. I took a closeup of one of the screws in the tread and am considering just leaving it as is. The other two are at either end 1/2 inch from the edge of the tread. I shimmed the base with oak so it would be able to hold the screws. The shim is also glued and screwed to the riser and original oak floor. So here are a few pictures including one before I started after the rug was removed.

I have to once again thank everyone for their help and advice. I also contributed a fair amount of money to various tool manufacturers.
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post #138 of 138 Old 08-05-2016, 07:34 AM
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Drum roll please :) The steps and hall floor are complete except for the trim. My phone committed suicide or I would have posted during the work. The landing tread took as long as it took me to do the entire hall floor. The new landing tread is secured with three trim screws 2 inches long. I took a closeup of one of the screws in the tread and am considering just leaving it as is. The other two are at either end 1/2 inch from the edge of the tread. I shimmed the base with oak so it would be able to hold the screws. The shim is also glued and screwed to the riser and original oak floor. So here are a few pictures including one before I started after the rug was removed.

I have to once again thank everyone for their help and advice. I also contributed a fair amount of money to various tool manufacturers.
Excellent!!!!! Update the resume!!!!
Would the parrots be agreeable to a group photo perched on the landing tread?
The tool manufacturers and we, your fans thank you!
Let us know when your next project will begin.
Regards to Lovey et al.
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