Canít figure out how to open plastic Adhesive bottle - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Canít figure out how to open plastic Adhesive bottle

I must be going senile because I just donít know how to open this and I donít know any 5 year oldís locally.

I cut the top off and even poked a hole in the tip, but nothing is coming out. Do I need a pair of pliers to open the main body? Iím kind of scared to do that because I had a problem once before and I donít want to waste it because I have a lot more to do.

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post #2 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 12:50 PM
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what is expiration date ???

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post #3 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 12:51 PM
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Sometimes a chainsaw or C4 helps.

The bottle, does it have a screw on cap dispenser? Sometimes they have an inner seal which has to be removed also.
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post #4 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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what is expiration date ???

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Oh wow its 3-10-2017. No wonder it was on clearance at HomeDepot. Thanks I just never thought to look.
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post #5 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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I just mentioned it to my wife so she picked it up and squeezed it saying it was hard as a rock.

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post #6 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes a chainsaw or C4 helps.

The bottle, does it have a screw on cap dispenser? Sometimes they have an inner seal which has to be removed also.

JohnnyB
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post #7 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 10:08 PM
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Next time, go to a hobby shop and buy the CA glue. You will get a much better quality.
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post #8 of 29 Old 04-29-2019, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Next time, go to a hobby shop and buy the CA glue. You will get a much better quality.
Thanks. The closest Hobby store is Hobby Lobby about 15 miles away and I've never been inside so I don't even know what they have there.

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post #9 of 29 Old 04-30-2019, 01:48 AM
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Make an expedition of it ...

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Thanks. The closest Hobby store is Hobby Lobby about 15 miles away and I've never been inside so I don't even know what they have there.

Go there anyway, have lunch and who knows you might find a new hobby?
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 29 Old 04-30-2019, 08:33 AM
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I now buy all my glue from a popular online retailer. I have been buying from Rockler. I bet they sell more glue in a week than a local retailer sells in a year. That is my theory on getting fresh glue.
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post #11 of 29 Old 04-30-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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I now buy all my glue from a popular online retailer. I have been buying from Rockler. I bet they sell more glue in a week than a local retailer sells in a year. That is my theory on getting fresh glue.
I don't buy anything from Rockler, I just don't like how they price things

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post #12 of 29 Old 04-30-2019, 10:59 AM
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I must be going senile because I just donít know how to open this and I donít know any 5 year oldís locally.



I cut the top off and even poked a hole in the tip, but nothing is coming out. Do I need a pair of pliers to open the main body? Iím kind of scared to do that because I had a problem once before and I donít want to waste it because I have a lot more to do.





I believe you twist it twisting it is going to puncture the face of where the glue is gonna come out..I had a issue with something similar and found that twisting it punctures the face and itís a matter of squeezing to get glue but itís crazy how they assume you will figure this out..


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post #13 of 29 Old 04-30-2019, 11:09 AM
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I buy all my CA glues from Starbond. Fresh product and they're an excellent company to do business with.
I buy the thin and the thick glues. I find the medium glues redundant.
If you check around you can probably find a 10% coupon for them.
https://www.starbond.com/

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post #14 of 29 Old 05-17-2019, 08:54 PM
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Oh wow its 3-10-2017. No wonder it was on clearance at HomeDepot. Thanks I just never thought to look.
CA glue is good for a year or so. Buy fresh, keep it right side up and refrigerate before first use it it is going to sit. There is a lot of questionable stuff on ebay and Amazon 3rd party sellers.

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post #15 of 29 Old 05-18-2019, 04:58 PM
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I get mine at $ Tree. Three tubes for a buck. Use it for installing fletching to arrows. For penturning, I get Titebond CA at Woodcraft.
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post #16 of 29 Old 05-18-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got it done and it looks pretty good. I had to pull one piesc down because it just wasn't matching up and then I realized it got twisted some how. If I ever do this again I'm going to use those plastic holders so everything is at the correct height. My very last corner miter wasn't exactly right but caulking worked very well and wasn't noticeable at all when painted so I'm very happy with it.

Now I'm dealing with a hole in a fiberglass shower/tub. They built around tub and there is no way to replace it without tearing it all out with major remolding. I did a little fiberglass work 30 years ago and I think I'm just going to pay someone to fix this.

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post #17 of 29 Old 05-19-2019, 07:39 AM
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.............. Now I'm dealing with a hole in a fiberglass shower/tub. ............ I did a little fiberglass work 30 years ago and I think I'm just going to pay someone to fix this.
Smart Idea. Working in confined areas such as a tub, it's easy to become overwhelmed with the the resin fumes and the dust from sanding.
Also make sure you have fans or some other form of ventilation when whoever repairs the tub.

I will say this, A bathtub in a house is in a much larger area than I am used to working on a shower stall in a boat so it wont be as bad as I am used to. But it still is not good.
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post #18 of 29 Old 05-19-2019, 09:16 AM
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Difficult to say if repairing the tub is a good idea without knowing why it developed a hole. Fiberglass gets old and goes bad and the hole may be just the first to show symptoms. It might end up being a never ending job fixing holes that crop up. On the other hand if it was damaged by some abuse then repair would certainly be the easiest fix.
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post #19 of 29 Old 05-19-2019, 10:41 AM
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I finally got it done and it looks pretty good. I had to pull one piesc down because it just wasn't matching up and then I realized it got twisted some how. If I ever do this again I'm going to use those plastic holders so everything is at the correct height. My very last corner miter wasn't exactly right but caulking worked very well and wasn't noticeable at all when painted so I'm very happy with it.



Now I'm dealing with a hole in a fiberglass shower/tub. They built around tub and there is no way to replace it without tearing it all out with major remolding. I did a little fiberglass work 30 years ago and I think I'm just going to pay someone to fix this.
You can fix it.. it is not rocket science.. have you got pictures about problem??? I had an accident in Aegean sea with my old fiberglass sailboat.. i crushed to the rocks at storm.. I did fix it with polyester putty white paint and sand paper ... i start 180 sand paper afther 220 i finish 400 sand paper.. you can do it sleeper.. it is an easy application...

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post #20 of 29 Old 05-19-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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You can fix it.. it is not rocket science.. have you got pictures about problem??? I had an accident in Aegean sea with my old fiberglass sailboat.. i crushed to the rocks at storm.. I did fix it with polyester putty white paint and sand paper ... i start 180 sand paper afther 220 i finish 400 sand paper.. you can do it sleeper.. it is an easy application...

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I helped my friends work on their boats years ago, but they were in a large hanger type building with lots of room. It wasnít too hard because it was all smooth surfaces.
My shower has a pattern of small squares and I donít think Iíll be able to replicate them. Plus I still have to do the whole shower so that that itís all the same color and I donít know how they do that.

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