Calling all machinists- broken shaft on 18" bandsaw - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 38 Old 01-19-2018, 10:31 AM
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Similar thread going over on Garagejournal, looks like the Grainger saw/part is very similar...

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=381309
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post #22 of 38 Old 01-19-2018, 07:04 PM
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If you could find out who made it for Sears, you might be able to get a replacement. Sears changes a few things from the OEM product so you are stuck with buying from Sears............if they still stock the parts. Now you know why I don't buy from Sears.

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post #23 of 38 Old 01-19-2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Pineknot_86 View Post
If you could find out who made it for Sears, you might be able to get a replacement. Sears changes a few things from the OEM product so you are stuck with buying from Sears............if they still stock the parts. Now you know why I don't buy from Sears.
From the thread on garagejournal the saw at Graingers appears to be the same saw. The poster over there has ordered the shaft from Graingers and will let everyone know.
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post #24 of 38 Old 01-19-2018, 10:04 PM
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I am a machinest. There is a lot of machining in that shaft and probably $$. What I would suggest which is simular to another post is I would try to drill and tap the shaft and bolt the broken part to the longer shaft. Then weld the 2 together and machine down. It may need heat treating after that, I don't know. At least stress relief it.
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post #25 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 05:48 AM
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After looking at the picture again, it looks like the shaft might be very hard or brittle. That being said, a standard drill bit probably won't drill it. You may need a specialty drill bit like a cobra drill bit. It is a very hard bit that can drill a hole in a file. The ones I know of are make by Premier Supertanium. https://cobracarbide.com/ They are very pricey though.
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post #26 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 06:43 AM
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This thread has been dead for almost 3 months. The original poster has probably left the house never to return.


These type of posts are common. New poster with problem wants long distance help. I have never understood why the first step that they take is not to take their problem to a local shop(s) and get an answer. Then if they do not like the answer they can start a thread and look for possible alternatives.

George
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post #27 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 09:04 AM
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It's not about the OP who started this thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoot summ View Post
Similar thread going over on Garagejournal, looks like the Grainger saw/part is very similar...

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=381309
Quote:
Originally Posted by tewitt1949 View Post
After looking at the picture again, it looks like the shaft might be very hard or brittle. That being said, a standard drill bit probably won't drill it. You may need a specialty drill bit like a cobra drill bit. It is a very hard bit that can drill a hole in a file. The ones I know of are make by Premier Supertanium. https://cobracarbide.com/ They are very pricey though.
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Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
This thread has been dead for almost 3 months. The original poster has probably left the house never to return.


These type of posts are common. New poster with problem wants long distance help. I have never understood why the first step that they take is not to take their problem to a local shop(s) and get an answer. Then if they do not like the answer they can start a thread and look for possible alternatives.

George
The same issue has come up on the garage journal site, so it's not a one time problem. Also the inputs from actual machinists is very beneficial to any broken shaft issues as woodworkers don't have those skill sets as a rule. This is a good thread for all those who are interested in the process rather than the final outcome.

I have some limited metal machining, drilling, turning, bending, welding and other skills but only enough to keep my stuff going. When I ran into a hardened cast steel pulley I couldn't drill, I took it to a heat treat shop which annealed it for me. I didn't need it hardened, so I left it in the softer state and installed back on my jack shaft on my South Bend 9" metal lathe.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-20-2018 at 09:43 AM.
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post #28 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
This thread has been dead for almost 3 months. The original poster has probably left the house never to return.

These type of posts are common. New poster with problem wants long distance help. I have never understood why the first step that they take is not to take their problem to a local shop(s) and get an answer. Then if they do not like the answer they can start a thread and look for possible alternatives.

George
Because:
* It is easier to start a thread from home (or anywhere) than it is to go to the local store(s).
* The person at the store is probably helpful and experienced, but you can get stuck with someone who doesn't know, and worse yet, won't admit it. The answer you get is probably good, but there may be better alternatives that may not be mentioned.
* In general, more people read your thread. You are likely to get more responses to your thread (vs. the store), and your chances of getting a selection of good solutions may be higher. The drawback is that you must determine which answer is the best for yourself. Sometimes more answers isn't better.
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post #29 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
This thread has been dead for almost 3 months. The original poster has probably left the house never to return.


These type of posts are common. New poster with problem wants long distance help. I have never understood why the first step that they take is not to take their problem to a local shop(s) and get an answer. Then if they do not like the answer they can start a thread and look for possible alternatives.

George
Totally agree George, makes perfect sense to me, this should be last resort, not the first.

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
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post #30 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
This thread has been dead for almost 3 months. The original poster has probably left the house never to return.


These type of posts are common. New poster with problem wants long distance help. I have never understood why the first step that they take is not to take their problem to a local shop(s) and get an answer. Then if they do not like the answer they can start a thread and look for possible alternatives.

George
I brought the thread back up because there was a similar thread going on GJ and I thought it was valuable HERE to connect the two as there seems to be a resolution in the works in the GJ thread.

I agree, a large percentage of new posters here come in with an issue, and never come back, the OP hasn't been back since 10/25/2017. Again, I didn't revive it for him, I revived it for others that might have a similar problem as it seems to be an issue with these saws. You also realize a lot of posters land here because they searched a specific issue, and there was something on this forum that showed up.

Beyond that the world has changed since the "run it down to your local shop" days. Many folks don't have the time during the day to go to the local shop, even if they knew if/where it was. So the easy way is to get online, find a forum, and ask away, many times without the slightest amount of research. It's certainly not the way I learned to do it, but it seems to be more of the norm these days. I will spend hours researching something, so when I do ask a question I at least have a darned good idea what I am doing, and pretty much hit a road block and am looking for other thoughts.

Sorry if you didn't like the 3 month old thread being brought up, I felt it was justified.
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post #31 of 38 Old 01-20-2018, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The same issue has come up on the garage journal site, so it's not a one time problem. Also the inputs from actual machinists is very beneficial to any broken shaft issues as woodworkers don't have those skill sets as a rule. This is a good thread for all those who are interested in the process rather than the final outcome.

I have some limited metal machining, drilling, turning, bending, welding and other skills but only enough to keep my stuff going. When I ran into a hardened cast steel pulley I couldn't drill, I took it to a heat treat shop which annealed it for me. I didn't need it hardened, so I left it in the softer state and installed back on my jack shaft on my South Bend 9" metal lathe.
If you ever need to anneal another part, BBQ charcoal briquettes work pretty good
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post #32 of 38 Old 01-21-2018, 11:04 AM
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If we mention the OP by name, @shoot summ, then maybe he/she will get an email notification that there is activity in the thread. For all we know, the OP has already dealt with the issue, moved on, and won't bother to post here any longer. "Dealt with the issue" may mean, "I dumped it. It wasn't practical to fix it."
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post #33 of 38 Old 01-21-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post
If we mention the OP by name, @shoot summ, then maybe he/she will get an email notification that there is activity in the thread. For all we know, the OP has already dealt with the issue, moved on, and won't bother to post here any longer. "Dealt with the issue" may mean, "I dumped it. It wasn't practical to fix it."
The OP actually responded to the post over on GJ, looks like he is a member there with the same username.

Actually thought it might have been his saw as he got rid of it without fixing it. Turns out it wasn't though.
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post #34 of 38 Old 01-21-2018, 11:38 AM
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So what has actually happened?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoot summ View Post
The OP actually responded to the post over on GJ, looks like he is a member there with the same username.

Actually thought it might have been his saw as he got rid of it without fixing it. Turns out it wasn't though.
Without going over to GJ can you determine IF there was a fix or not?
I still maintain a drive shaft for a bandsaw doesn't need to have tremendous torque capability. It ain't a 100 HP motocycle. If it were mine, I would set it in a fixture, possible center drill it if possible, and braze it. the brazing is easily filed or if you have a mill, can be machine off IF needed. Something caused the shaft to fail, a seized bearing or a manufacturer's defect in the material. I don't know if after brazing the shaft would be too soft or not, BUT it's worth a try!
A tig welded shaft could heat treated if need be.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #35 of 38 Old 01-21-2018, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Without going over to GJ can you determine IF there was a fix or not?
I still maintain a drive shaft for a bandsaw doesn't need to have tremendous torque capability. It ain't a 100 HP motocycle. If it were mine, I would set it in a fixture, possible center drill it if possible, and braze it. the brazing is easily filed or if you have a mill, can be machine off IF needed. Something caused the shaft to fail, a seized bearing or a manufacturer's defect in the material. I don't know if after brazing the shaft would be too soft or not, BUT it's worth a try!
A tig welded shaft could heat treated if need be.
The OP over on GJ is still waiting for the new replacement shaft to come in from Graingers to see if they are the same.

I agree that there are a couple of ways to fix the shaft, another reason a TIG keeps moving higher on my list. I brought my Dad's Oxy/Acetylene torch home after he passed, still need to get out and perfect my brazing too, did a little with Dad some years ago, wish I would have done more as he was very good at it.

I think the real issue is something is stressing that shaft, not rotational or torque, but flex. Perhaps something rides out far to one end and pulls, or pushes the shaft out of round. To me it looks like it snapped, not twisted apart.
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post #36 of 38 Old 01-21-2018, 01:25 PM
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snapped ...I doono?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoot summ View Post
The OP over on GJ is still waiting for the new replacement shaft to come in from Graingers to see if they are the same.

I agree that there are a couple of ways to fix the shaft, another reason a TIG keeps moving higher on my list. I brought my Dad's Oxy/Acetylene torch home after he passed, still need to get out and perfect my brazing too, did a little with Dad some years ago, wish I would have done more as he was very good at it.

I think the real issue is something is stressing that shaft, not rotational or torque, but flex. Perhaps something rides out far to one end and pulls, or pushes the shaft out of round. To me it looks like it snapped, not twisted apart.
This is why I suspect metal fatigue or faulty material from the jump.
The discoloration tells me it got way too hot. I just don't think there's enough force from rotation to snap a 3/4" or so, metal shaft, the V belt will slip way before the shaft gives out. There's a few unknowns here that only the OP can verify. What were the circumstance under which it failed OR was it purchased this way .. maybe that was it, a can't quite recall.

All I do know is I hope the replacement shaft works so there's no need to fix this one.
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post #37 of 38 Old 01-22-2018, 07:14 AM
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If you weld or braze it, it might work and hold for a long time. Just don't over tighten the belt. If it wobbles a little, so what, your not building a watch.
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post #38 of 38 Old 01-25-2018, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polar8 View Post
I was recently given this bandsaw for free. The shaft that connects the gearbox to the lower pulley is broken. To my dismay Sears no longer sells the part! Is this something that I could take to a machine shop to get a replacement? How much would that cost me?

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QawVzf10l0LpOaEq2

Thanks!
Company that sears purchased saw from

Colovos CO
4444 West Ohio Street
Chicago, IL 60624
Phone: (773) 265-1685
Web: Colovos.com
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