Cabinet Door questions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Cabinet Door questions

Hello everyone,
Fairly new to this forum, just started lurking. Have a few questions that are driving me crazy. Any help would be awesome!

I am building some new cabinet doors for my in-laws -
The few that I have made so far, I made the panels from solid wood joined with biscuits. They are raised panels, I have the 3 piece kit from Rockler. I am happy with them. I was carefull on the glue up not to glue the panel to the rail or styles but I must have gotten a corner or two of the panel in contact with glue because she has become stuck in place. The panel was cut so that it is 1/8" less across and in height.

Is the fact that the corners came in contact with glue a big deal? I have 12 left to build and am wondering if I should make darn sure this doesn't happen or does it even really matter?

How about on doors that are fairly large......29" Tall and 25" Wide. I'm using red oak. They will be fairly heavy. I read I can run glue across they entire length of the rails because the panel wants to expand the other way. (I didn't do that above, tried to just glue where the styles and rails meet) Is just glueing the rail and style intersection points a good, strong, way to go with doors this size?

Last question: Am I going about building the panels the right way? (glue and biscuits out of 1x6 or 1x8 red oak boards) I assume so, but you know how assumptions go.....Thanks for any help!

Mike
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 11:58 AM
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It is never a good idea to glue the panel to the frame. Wood expands across the grain-very little with the grain. Biscuits aren't absolutely needed but,certainly help in assembly. From what you have said I assume you are using a cope(rail end cutter) and stick (stile and rail profile cutter) while not as strong as a mortise and tenon still should be plenty strong enough.

Regards

Jerry
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jerry

Do you think its a big deal that the panel is held in place by a little glue - accidentally? Should I do whatever it takes to not let this happen on the other doors?
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 12:48 PM
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In theory if a panel corner here and an inch of the panel edge gets a little glue on it you should be totally fine. There will still be plenty of room for expansion and contraction.

If you're worried about the panel rattling or too loose of a fit try using spaceballs.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=spaceballs
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 01:31 PM
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I have just started building cabinets so i don't have a lot of experience to speak from but my thought is this.......if there is ZERO glue on the panels then you have ZERO possibility of this type of problem....if there is SOME glue then you have at least SOME potential for problems......for me it's a peice of mind thing.......I'd do my best to make sure you don't get ANY glue on the panels
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information

Thanks guys! Reckless, I believe I will try the spacer balls.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 05:31 PM
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You can go cheap and use 1/4" foam insulating tape. Comes in rolls with an adhesive back.

As far as the glue thing.....I wouldn't worry about a small amount. I glue up my frame except for the top/bottom, then slide in the panel. Less chance of glue getting on it that way.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 05:48 PM
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What you could try is use an X-Acto knife and carefully try to break whatever glue bond you have both on the back, and on the front. Be careful not to cut into the wood, but rather try to hit the glue that's just on the panel.

Ordinarily, the panels can be spot glued or pinned at the center top and bottom of the panel. Don't lose any sleep over what is already done. Biscuits aren't necessary for panel sections to be glued. Jointed edges or a good rip cut on the TS is sufficient. I use a flat block sander and give the mating edges a few swipes to get them flat with nice sharp edges, then glue and clamp up. Using narrow pieces for the panel 3"-4" versus wider ones 5" or larger are likely to have less movement issues.

If you want to eliminate any movement issues and have a glued in panel, this thread may be of interest.






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post #9 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 05:50 PM
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Gravel,
Welcome to the forum. I use the space balls when gluing up cabinet doors, two per side. You have to allow a little room for them. Do a test fit before gluing. Put the space balls in, assemble the pieces and the raised panel should not move, but you should be able to seat all the joints between the rails and styles without compressing the space balls. Follow what I am saying? In other words, you don't want undue pressure from the space balls pushing your frames apart. I use titebond III and haven't had any problems with anything coming apart.
Mike Hawkins
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel7 View Post
Do you think its a big deal that the panel is held in place by a little glue - accidentally? Should I do whatever it takes to not let this happen on the other doors?
Just keep the panels away from the frames until the flue is dry. You do not assemble them as a unit do you?

G
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-16-2009, 11:43 PM
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Gravel,
I worked in a production cabinet shop,we never used biscuits to edge join just titebond III.We glued only the stile and rail joint then pin nailed the joint in back.Your large doors should be fine this way.
Good Luck
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-17-2009, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome - guys

I feel way better about doing the rest of the doors. Thanks so much.

Thanks for the insight on the board widths for the panels, my thought was the opposite.

GeorgeC - Yep, I am doing it all at once.

I'll get some pictures up at the end of the weekend.

Thanks,
Mike
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