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post #1 of 22 Old 08-26-2015, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Cabinet door question

My cabinet build is 39" x 41". I'll be building 2 overlay doors rails & stiles will be 3/4" x 1 1/2" ash. I'll use 1/4" BB ply for the panels.

Now for the question. Should I use one panel for each door, or should I add another rail about 2/3's up with two panels?

Thanks for your considered opinions.

What I have so far:
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post #2 of 22 Old 08-26-2015, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesTex View Post
My cabinet build is 39" x 41". I'll be building 2 overlay doors rails & stiles will be 3/4" x 1 1/2" ash. I'll use 1/4" BB ply for the panels.

Now for the question. Should I use one panel for each door, or should I add another rail about 2/3's up with two panels?

Thanks for your considered opinions.

What I have so far:
I am used to seeing 42 inch upper cabinets as one panel. Are you worried the 1/4 will be too flimsy for the size of the cabinet?
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post #3 of 22 Old 08-26-2015, 01:05 PM
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Check out other cabinets before you build your doors. Cabinet rails and stiles are typically 2 1/4 inches wide. You will need the width if you are going to use the Euro style hinges and have a groove for the panel to fit in.

Good luck.
Mike
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-26-2015, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I was thinking the doors might be somewhat flimsy without the third rail. If not, then I'll go with just the top and bottom rails.

So far as the hinges go, I won't be using euro hinges - just some inexpensive exposed hinges as in the photo below. These doors are 3/4" x 1 1/2" with 3/4" panels. Except the blue and red doors. Those panels are dry-erase boards.

This will be a shop cabinet, if that matters.
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post #5 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 08:44 AM
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I like the dry erase board idea!
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 09:08 AM
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Structurally it doesn't make a lot of difference whether you put an addition rail in it or not. In the rare event one of the door stiles would warp and bow outwards the additional rail would help prevent this. Having the additional rail is more of an aesthetic issue.
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Sanchez - I use the top board for notes. My young grandchildren use the other to color on or to show me what they would like to make. I want my shop to be inviting to them, so that's one of it's enticements.

Steve - Thanks for the input. That's two valued opinions that the doors will be fine without the third rail, so I'll go that route.

Thanks to all for the feedback.
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 11:46 AM
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As previously posted above, you need to make the stiles and rails 2 1/4" wide.
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Toolman, you don't say why they should be 2 1/4" wide. Is it for strength, aesthetics, room for hinges, standardization?

I'm trying to learn this fascinating hobby, so please elaborate.
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 01:29 PM
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My guess about the 2 1/4" is the wider the stile the less likely it is to warp. Also if European hinges are used you need the width to keep the pocket hole out of the sticking groove.
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post #11 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesTex View Post
Toolman, you don't say why they should be 2 1/4" wide. Is it for strength, aesthetics, room for hinges, standardization?

I'm trying to learn this fascinating hobby, so please elaborate.
It's my opinion a 1 1/2" stile is too narrow for both strength and hardware.
The two inside corners hold the entire weight of the doors.
Doors get opened a lot and sometimes slammed. 2 1/4" gives you 1/3 more surface area for stronger corner joints. Also more room for hardware. More room for a decorative routered edge. Better all around.
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 01:44 PM
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With 2 1/4" rails and stiles you will get a uniform 2" flat all around your door. Most R&S sets have a 1/4" deep profile. If your worried about the door being flimsy you could go with beefier top rails like they do on furniture..
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 01:57 PM
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I might suggest running a mortise on the rails stiles if you werent already. I dont konw if will be an issue, but thats alot of door to hang on 1.25" of surface adhesion.

A 3rd rail would be a 3rd point, but a mortise would add alot of strength.
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-27-2015, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate the guidance. Looks like I'll be buying more material for wider framework. I have some 8/4 flatsawn ash left from another project I was planning to rip slices off for the rails & stiles to mill to 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch. They would effectively be quarter or rift sawn. I reckon I'll save it for some other project.
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post #15 of 22 Old 10-22-2015, 10:06 AM
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Hi,
I am a bit confused as you stated 1/4 bb ply for door panels and all of the pictures are showing raised panel doors? If you are using 1/4 play panels I would go for the third rail just to add stability to the 1/4 panels. I also agree with all the others on wider framing. I like all the great comments.
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post #16 of 22 Old 10-22-2015, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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The cabinet build included 1/4" BB ply for door panels. The thread included some discussion regarding the size of the rails and stiles. The photos illustrated examples of them, not the panels.

The build is complete. Doors are 1/4" BB PLY (true 1/4"), with 7/8" x 2" ate sawn ash.

A photo if I do it right:
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post #17 of 22 Old 10-23-2015, 03:23 PM
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Fantastic looking and a great job.
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post #18 of 22 Old 10-24-2015, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Big Mike. I'm learning mistake by mistake. This was my first try at spraying lacquer. Used a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Quite a learning experience. Had a lot of good advice from Steve Nuel and Randy Reed.
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post #19 of 22 Old 10-25-2015, 09:08 AM
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I sprayed cabinets with lacquer in many shops but always with regular high pressure guns and loved the finish. May I ask what you thought of the HVLP spraying for the lacquer? I have a one gallon HVLP tank and gun from HF still in a box and have never used it.
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post #20 of 22 Old 10-25-2015, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Since I've never used a spray gun other than a large airless to paint my shop OSB interior walls and ceiling, I don't really feel that I am qualified to rate the gun. What I can say is that all the controls work exactly as indicated by the directions, and probably would have laid down an excellent finish if used by someone who had an inkling of what he is doing. I'll keep trying & learning. Like "they" say, "If at first you don't suck seed, keep sucking till you do suck seed".
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