Butting hardboard panels together? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 10-27-2018, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Butting hardboard panels together?

I want to attach 1/8" tempered hardboard panels to a simple 1x3 frame that will be 105" x 59". The outer surface will be sanded, primed, and painted. What I'm trying to make is a DIY projector screen so it goes without saying that the finished product would need to have a perfectly homogenous seamless appearance. I wanted to get Eucaboard panels from Home Depot because they are cheap, lightweight, and readily available. However, reading through the literature, it says NOT to butt these panels up tight because they could buckle. My original plan was to either butt the boards up tight together and use a high build primer to cover the seams or leave about 1/16" to 1/8" gap and fill with bondo wood filler. Apparently the first method sounds like a no go, what about leaving a gap and using bondo? What are my options? Appreciate any advice, thanks.
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-27-2018, 08:27 PM
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My advice would be to invest as little as possible to conduct a trial run before you pull the trigger on materials.

I suspect (based on demo-ing multiple rooms that were paneled with material the same as/much like what you describe) that you'll find that it is pretty much impossible to keep flat unless you're attaching it to a perfectly flat substrate.

And I can't imagine a scenario where you're going to get anything remotely close to a flat surface out of 1◊3's.

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post #3 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 02:35 AM
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I have a different approach...

I would make a frame from 1" X 3"s the size you want with braces inside that are set 1/4" to 1/2" below the perimeter. The reason for that is it will have a stretched fabric covering like an oil painting canvas. It will be continuous and seamless and can be painted with any reflective paint you choose. The paint may help to tighten the fabric as it shrinks in place. It will be lightweight for ease of storage and hanging in place.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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Many people who make their own screens use fabric such as black out cloth, stretchable vinyl, etc. But that is not really an option for me because the paint mix I'm using does not lay down very good on fabric because of the texture. It only works well on a very smooth surface.
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 03:21 AM
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In that case ...

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Many people who make their own screens use fabric such as black out cloth, stretchable vinyl, etc. But that is not really an option for me because the paint mix I'm using does not lay down very good on fabric because of the texture. It only works well on a very smooth surface.
Looks like you've painted yourself into a corner then ....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 06:21 AM
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I would find another paint.


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post #7 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 08:06 AM
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Yes, Amazon have a few brands of projector screen paint. These paints sometimes incorporate micro glass beds acting as cats eyes. Also used in road marking paints and road signs.
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 09:15 AM
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You can make a panel with Masonite, bondo the seams and paint it to where the seams don't show however the seams will eventually show up again. Masonite is subject to wood movement like anything else. You would have better luck using plywood using a spline in the joint. Still the only way to have a durable seamless panel is to make a panel without seams. Instead of finishing with paint you might consider covering the panel with formica. You can get a sheet of formica in a sheet 5'x10' which could be applied with contact cement.
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 09:36 AM
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Someone must sell projector screen material that you could use.

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post #10 of 12 Old 10-29-2018, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Instead of finishing with paint you might consider covering the panel with formica. You can get a sheet of formica in a sheet 5'x10' which could be applied with contact cement.
I'll have to look into that. Have any idea of price and availability? Is that something places would stock or do you think it'd be a special order item?


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Someone must sell projector screen material that you could use.
Sure they do, but it costs hundreds of dollars for the ALR types (which is what I need). I already bought the paint/primer for a total of about $40.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-29-2018, 08:32 AM
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I'll have to look into that. Have any idea of price and availability? Is that something places would stock or do you think it'd be a special order item?



Sure they do, but it costs hundreds of dollars for the ALR types (which is what I need). I already bought the paint/primer for a total of about $40.
I don't buy enough laminate anymore to know the pricing. It would be a special order mainly because there are several different brands each has a hundred different colors and textures. Only the manufacturer itself would have a warehouse with the majority of colors and sizes. I used to go directly to Wilsonart and their warehouse was about as big as a Home Depot store. Most any lumber company will have a sample board or chain you could select the brand and color you want and order it. It would come all rolled up in a box. Be sure to have some help when unrolling a sheet that size. The laminate is a little thinner and more fragile than it used to be. Handle it gently as it can tear.

When you apply contact use a flammable type adhesive and if possible spray it. Contact cement works better if it has a texture to it and spraying it does a better job of that. If you are going to roll the glue use a texture roller.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-29-2018, 08:52 AM
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Some plywood suppliers carry plywood in 5í x 10í. Some have a primed MDF overlay which paints beautifully.
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