Building Router Table need Help on accessories .. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Building Router Table need Help on accessories ..

Hi to all

I am still kind new working with a router. I have done just a few simple edges by hand..

I am in the planning stages of building a router table from 2pcs of 3/4 finished birch plywood glued n screwed...or your recommendations..

It will have a dedicated router..

Now for your help and recommendations

Do I need a router lift?

I have about $700.00 to build with...

Fence type
T-slots what type and how many and size
Plat to attach router ( the square one) don't know what it's called..
Clamps
Feather boards
Hold down jig ( seen one with wheels )

Anything else you may think I need.

I will be making my own kitchen cabinets and raised panel doors.
Also will be trying to make molding for the entire house. From crown to baseboard to window sills...

If possible the best and cheapest place to purchase these things...I'm from NJ can't find a local woodworking store....

Thanks
Stevenc...

Last edited by Stevenc90; 01-10-2016 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #2 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 04:23 PM
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I would not be in a hurry to build the ultimate router table, as you use one it will become apparent what features you personally need.

The beauty of a router is that there is no fixed direction of feed in relation to the bit, unlike a table saw, so guides can easily be clamped or screwed to the top where needed.

I would start with a simple top with the router plate set in it and go from there as time dictates, many of us have several tables dedicated to particular applications, rather than a one size fits all.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #3 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 09:55 PM
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A router table can be as simple as a piece of plywood set on top of 2 sawhorses with a router under along with a fence made from a 2x4 board. Or it can be a fancy as a heirloom piece of furniture. For a first one I would make it simple until you know what exactly you want or need.
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post #4 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 10:29 PM
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Great looking router table. Thanks for the picture.
An asset in any shop.
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post #5 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 10:35 PM
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Steven
Since you have a very nice budget for your new router table, I suggest you buy a ready-made top and build the table for your new top.
The tops can be purchased in a complete kit including the table insert, the fence, the channel for a miter gauge, etc.
Making your new cabinet can be a fun project.
Good luck to you.
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post #6 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 10:58 PM
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As far as I am concerned, there is no need for a miter track cut into the table. That is unless you want to use it to mount a featherboard. The fence can be clamped in any direction on the table. With a router table there is no 90 deg anything.

As for a router dedicated to the table use, consider the Triton 3 1/4 hp model. There is no need for a lift. The instructions that come with the router describe how to remove the spring from the plunge mechanism. The you simply unlock the router, adjust the bit height with the supplied hand crank. You can crank it above the table where the shaft will lock. Only one wrench is required to change the bits.

I have this model and a pair of Bosch 1617's...and the little DeWalt 611 combo kit.

BTW, the router loafs along when cutting the raised panels.

Here is my table, which is a dual router setup, and I use it for assembly work and other stuff.
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post #7 of 23 Old 01-10-2016, 11:00 PM
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Here is a featherboard attachment I built for my table. That way I don't have to cut a slot for the miter track.
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post #8 of 23 Old 01-11-2016, 10:56 AM
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I have a slot in my router table for a miter gauge. I use my miter gauge when routing end grain sometimes.
You don't need a miter gauge for wide boards, but everything is not wide.
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post #9 of 23 Old 01-11-2016, 12:45 PM
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I used an "adjust from above the table" router much like MT's for a couple years. I upgraded to the Incra Lift and a Porter Cable 75182. I would recommend skipping the adjustable base router and go right for a real lift. Those routers do "work", but I've found the lift to be far more enjoyable to work with.

I do recommend a miter gauge or T-track on both the table and the fence if you think you're going to be routing anything longer than 24". A pair of featherboards (one vertical, one horizontal) lets you focus on feeding the material while ensuring that your cut will be exactly where you want it. I also use the table slot for a miter gauge and occasionally even a tenon jig.

I'd invest the bulk of your budget into the router & lift. I really like the Incra because of the metal, magnetic throat plates. Other lifts get really good reviews, but they're all about $350. The PC router is about $250, so there's $600 of your budget. You'll probably have those forever even if you rebuild or upgrade the table later. I'd throw the other $100 into materials for a "lite" version of a table or stand and add to it as you go.
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post #10 of 23 Old 01-12-2016, 08:57 PM
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My router table is nearly 30 years old, and still used all the time. Fill in the wasted space with useable storage.

It has a dedicated shop vac, and sits right next to my shop air cleaner. Cost today, $150 for the router, and maybe another $100 for the plywood and 5 metal drawer slides.

Build it your self for far more satisfaction than anything you can buy. I have never had a router lift and don't need one. Save your money!
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post #11 of 23 Old 01-13-2016, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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What do you guys think of the Benchdog cast iron table and stand it's on sale at Rocker..

I'm going to purchase the Triton TRA0001 also on sale at Rocker...

Thanks
Stevenc
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post #12 of 23 Old 01-13-2016, 06:09 PM
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A beautiful shop. Well done. Thanks for the pictures.
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post #13 of 23 Old 01-14-2016, 09:52 AM
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I have the Cast Iron Benchdog table. It's a beast. Dead flat, plenty of mass, no deflection. You can't go wrong if it fits the budget.

Not sure if you're thinking about the fence package too, but I'd look at other options. It's okay, but there are no replacement sacrificial faces available, so you need to make your own. This means having to carve a T-slot, rip and thickness MDF or such. I'm sure their are better designs out there.
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post #14 of 23 Old 02-05-2016, 04:59 PM
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I have a few router table tips you can take a look at. It may help you since you are new to woodworking. My web page isn't a advertised site just a regular woodworker trying to help the newbies. Just add a dot com to my name Woodknut . 700 is a really good amount to work with.
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post #15 of 23 Old 02-05-2016, 07:13 PM
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I took a bit different approach when I built my router table. I used an old table saw top for my top, and built my fence with runners to fit the miter slots. This allowed me to add three adjustable stop positions for the fence. It allows one to make a pass across the table with however many pieces, move to the next position, repeat, and then move to the third position. My whole top and cabinet was built from mostly scrounged or leftover materials. Build thread here:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/p...-64135/index2/

Post 28 shows the fence stop setup.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #16 of 23 Old 02-05-2016, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
As far as I am concerned, there is no need for a miter track cut into the table. That is unless you want to use it to mount a featherboard. The fence can be clamped in any direction on the table. With a router table there is no 90 deg anything.

As for a router dedicated to the table use, consider the Triton 3 1/4 hp model. There is no need for a lift. The instructions that come with the router describe how to remove the spring from the plunge mechanism. The you simply unlock the router, adjust the bit height with the supplied hand crank. You can crank it above the table where the shaft will lock. Only one wrench is required to change the bits.

I have this model and a pair of Bosch 1617's...and the little DeWalt 611 combo kit.

BTW, the router loafs along when cutting the raised panels.

Here is my table, which is a dual router setup, and I use it for assembly work and other stuff.
He does need a miter track....
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post #17 of 23 Old 02-05-2016, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Clark View Post
My router table is nearly 30 years old, and still used all the time. Fill in the wasted space with useable storage.

It has a dedicated shop vac, and sits right next to my shop air cleaner. Cost today, $150 for the router, and maybe another $100 for the plywood and 5 metal drawer slides.

Build it your self for far more satisfaction than anything you can buy. I have never had a router lift and don't need one. Save your money!
You may not need one but he might. This is something only he can decide. I don't have one but wish I did. Much easier with than without....
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post #18 of 23 Old 02-05-2016, 10:35 PM
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Rebelwork,
I've seen your router set up in earlier post. I love the design. Great job.
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post #19 of 23 Old 02-06-2016, 12:42 AM
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post #20 of 23 Old 02-06-2016, 12:43 AM
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Building Router Table need Help on accessories ..

Same router lift does mortise and tenons too. Less than 30 seconds to change positions.


Al


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