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Building A "Knock-Down" Woodworking Bench

7K views 33 replies 13 participants last post by  hoowasat 
#1 ·
I want to build a knock-down woodworker's bench so that our garage can be used as a garage when I'm not doing a project. The idea is to be able to knock it down and store it when not in use. Assemble it when I need it. The top, a somewhat beat up 60 in. by 30 in. by 1-3/4 in. thick butcher block top I bought for this purpose, is a bit much to be horsing around.

My plan is to rip it lengthwise into three equal sections, and use long machine bolts through the sides, with threaded inserts in the middle section, to make it whole again. Obviously: Those threaded inserts will need to be darn strong, because those bolts will need to be snugged-down darn tight to make that top be what it should be when assembled.

I'll probably have four bolts on each side: Three equally spaced along the length, with one pair located to either side of the side vise to counter separation when I use the vise with bench dogs.

Or would it be wiser to drill all the way through, width-wise, and use threaded rod? I'm already going to be drilling eight ten inch long holes. What's another four?

I'll also have a couple steel dowels on each side, for locator pins, and short... "ledger boards" ?, for lack of a better term, on each side of the center section. Again, for locators.

Thoughts? Recommendations?
 
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#2 ·
Have you looked at Robert Lang's 21st century workbench? I built this and have been very happy with it. I did one modification to it. I made mine using the half dovetails on the upper and lower stretchers, and it uses wedges that hold it stable and no racking when used. It comes apart easily, and my bench uses eight 1/4" bolts that are screwed into inserts in the bottom of the top.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Workbench_Article.pdf
 
#3 ·
While there are plenty of knockdown designs, I particularly like the Moravian workbench and am almost finished building one for my shop. I had a 60" x 30" chunk of butcher block top, too, and I ripped it in half, glued the halves together, and built the rest of the bench. The sucker is solid, the top is not too heavy to lug about when needed, and stable as all get-out. Big thumbs up from me.
 
#34 ·
I've recently become enamored with the Moravian workbench and find myself daydreaming of how I would build one. Its breakdown/mobility feature is a strong point for those periods when other projects must occupy my available work space. Otherwise, I would leave it standing. As it is, I resort to the out of doors when I want to run my table saw or miter saw, plus some portable router table work (trim bits with templates). The WoodandShop.com school is only a 2-1/2 hour drive from where I live, and I'm tempted to call 'em up to see if I can take a tour.
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you are in a garage, it has to be simple. The simplest I can think of is have one side of the workbench screwed into the wall with hinges. The front side will either drop down or lift up whichever you choose. Whether you lift up or drop down, the front legs are also be on hinges and they will fall down into place. For cross bracing, you can figure that out on your own.
From there , you can keep it as simple or complicated as you wish.
The actual top oor working surface can be a simple piece of plywood or one of those tops with the compartments built it.Cant think of the name of it offhand, but it's real popular these days.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the pointers, guys! I don't know as I'll replicate exactly either of the two designs mentioned, but they do give me good ideas.

miketo, I'm confused. Do you mean you ripped the 60 x 30 top you had, and turned it into a thicker 60 x 15 top? 15 in. wide doesn't seem like much to me.

Tony B, I don't want it against a wall. For starters: I don't have wall space for it that isn't otherwise already dedicated for other purposes. I also want to be able to access the benchtop from all four sides when I use it.

Anyway, mainly I was wondering how successful might be my plans for the benchtop part being reassembled as I described.
 
#7 ·
SEMIJim: Yep, I ripped the 30" and made a thicker 15" top. The Moravian design has the half closest to you as a thick slab, while the half farther away is a tool tray. A reinforced top nearby holds things steady for chiseling, hammering, and banging about. Farther away, work support or material holding is the main task.


I also lied to you: I don't have a tool tray. I modified the Moravian so it's a split-top, with two 3.5" x 11" x 60" sections of butcher block running lengthwise and a 2" gap between them. This lets me hook clamps in the gap for workholding. It all depends on what you want to build with your workbench and what your workflow is like.


As for running long bolts, all-thread, or the like through the width, I'm sure it can be done. My father-in-law had a workbench that used all-thread running through the bench like that. But it wasn't designed for knockdown. I also think you'd get pretty tired with bolting and unbolting the benchtop, even if you had a compressor and impact wrench.


Collecting ideas and ruminating over plans was one of the best parts of building my bench. I love researching things like that! If you're still collecting ideas, take a look at these:


Beams and Bases (use your slab instead of a torsion box)


New-Fangled Workbench


Small, Sturdy Workbench (interlocking Japanese joinery!)



There also appears to be a difference between portable and knock-down benches. Portable, you can move and take apart easily. Knock-down, you can move or take apart with some effort.


Good luck on your research!
 
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#10 ·
I also think you'd get pretty tired with bolting and unbolting the benchtop, even if you had a compressor and impact wrench.
Except I don't really do very much woodworking. My thinking is that, when I do, move the cars out of the garage, move table saw and so-forth out of the corners, set up the bench, do the job, put it all back away and move the cars back into the garage until the next time.

For really trivial projects: One section of the benchtop across my sawhorses will probably suffice. (Hmmm... That "beams and braces" article gave me another idea...)

Good luck on your research!
Thanks!

If you do basically hand work woodworking, it is doubtful that you will need a bench wider than two feet wide.
Noted, but the top is 30 in. wide. Don't see the point in not using it.

What type of woodworking will your bench be used for?
Nothing particularly sophisticated or demanding, right now. I'm more doing this because I can, than because I need to :)

It's almost a project unto itself.
 
#8 ·
SemiJim, My 21st Century bench uses two 3"x 12"x 60" bench surfaces that are bolted down to the bench frames using 1/4" bolts that thread into threaded inserts in the bottom of the bench surface. Each of the bench surfaces uses four bolts. I have not noticed any movement of the bench surfaces when using bench dogs or holdfasts when using them. I don't think it is necessary to try to bore through the width if your bench to insert threaded rods/nuts to form a solid top from two or three sections. If you do basically hand work woodworking, it is doubtful that you will need a bench wider than two feet wide. What type of woodworking will your bench be used for?
 
#11 ·
gmercer_48083, the more I look at that 21st Century Bench the more I'm liking it--particularly with your top stretcher modification.

One of my local lumber yards has select yellow pine in 4x8. I could probably economically build the frame from that--ripping the 4x8's down to the requisite widths.

Rip the 30 in. wide butcher block top down to two 12 in. wide lengths, fastened as you have, and, rather than the trays, maybe just leave a 2 in. wide gap down the middle to give me additional flexibility for clamping?

Perhaps, rather than inserts in the bench top and bolts from the bottom, maybe use large hanger bolts



and big honkin' wingnuts to secure the top sections to the base? Would make assembly and disassembly require no more than a mallet--and perhaps a crescent wrench to snug/loosen the wingnuts?
 
#12 ·
SemiJim, I used inserts into the bottom because when the top is removed and stored there is nothing protruding and they lie flat against each other. Your idea would also work to hold it to the base, but would protrude when stored.
 
#13 ·
Yeah, that's the downside. OTOH: I'd have built-in locating pins. But I could accomplish that with a dowel or two on each end of the base. Or I could use inserts and short threaded rods and have the best of both worlds. Hmmm... decisions, decisions...
 
#14 · (Edited)
Here's what I would do ......

Leave your nice butcher block as is. Get two of these heavy duty combination vise and saw horses, for about $150.00...... total investment. For small jobs bring out only one of them. For bigger projects use both and set the butcher block on top and clamp it in the vises. You can release one or both of the vises, stick your work between the jaws and clamp it tight to the side of the butcher block like for hand planing or edge drilling etc.

Very flexible and knocks down for storage. If you want, rip the butcher block length wise and only use one half if that's all you need. Put in alignment dowels or steel pins when you need a larger surface and then use them both.

Any type of clamping table or sawhorse will work in pairs. Stanley Workmates for example, or these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-D...g-Portable-Workbench-and-Vise-WM125/100671605


https://www.lowes.com/pd/WORX-27-in...wVxCQjztOVDSn1YQghcaAjGtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
#15 · (Edited)
There are free plans for a knock-down workbench from The Woodsmith Shop. I didn't mention it before, because @SEMIJim wants a different kind of knock-down workbench, somewhat larger.

I am mentioning it now, for others who may be interested. If you try to find the plans with a web search, you will find the paid version. Your web search may also turn up lots of those SCAM "Thousands of Plans" or "Ted's Plans" or variants, so watch out for them! They are a SCAM to steal your money!! If you find any of those webpages, close them quickly. Some may contain malware.

The knock-down workbench was shown and described in a television show, The Woodsmith Shop, Season 12, Episode 1. Go to the webpage below, and look very carefully below the right corner of the "Episode Preview". You will see a link to EPISODE 1201 PLANS: "Knock-down Workbench" here:

https://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season12/1201/

The season is still active, but once it ages out, you won't be able to download the free plans in the future. The plan files are small, so I try to remember to download and save the entire season's plans while the season is still active and the plans are still free.

You can get the plans FREE using the link above, but here is a link to the same plans, but it is for the PAID version. The reasons I am posting it here are: (1) So you can see the photos of the workbench easily, and (2) Eventually the free version will not be available, and others may find this post too late to get the free version, but want to buy the plans anyway.

PAID VERSION TO VIEW PHOTOS. TO DOWNLOAD FREE PLANS (IF STILL AVAILABLE), TRY THE LINK ABOVE FIRST:
https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/knock-down-workbench/
 
#16 ·
I made a nice knock down bench out of 2x4s with just a 3/4" top and edged sides.
When the frame folded out for use the top would slip nicely onto the frame and hang over the sides to sorta hold it all together nice. It was a snug fit.
I have a small garage and my intentions were to have the space when I needed....Welllllllll!!!!!
That lasted about 2 weeks when I realized i wanted a more permanent solution
Hopefully the pics show up
 

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#19 ·
I made a nice knock down bench out of 2x4s with just a 3/4" top and edged sides.
When the frame folded out for use the top would slip nicely onto the frame and hang over the sides to sorta hold it all together nice. It was a snug fit.
I have a small garage and my intentions were to have the space when I needed....Welllllllll!!!!!
That lasted about 2 weeks when I realized i wanted a more permanent solution
That is a nice looking stowable bench. What type of work do you do on it?

One of the things I've thought about was being able to move my work outside for a nice afternoon of building in the sun and breeze. A knockdown bench, in concept, could be great for that. Problem for me is the type of woodworking I do can create a lot of lateral racking of the bench, so that would have to be addressed. I'd also need access to a woodworking vice at the bench, which is bulky and heavy in its own right.
 
#18 ·
Hmmm... Interesting design, GSXRFanIM. The advantage of your solution, for me, is I already have the bits for the end pieces of the base--with the rabbits and dados already cut and ready to glue up.

You see: I'd first thought to get into fine woodworking about twenty years ago. I'd essentially fabricated most of the base when I came to the conclusion that fine woodworking and uninsulated, unheated garages weren't a good mix. (Too much temperature and humidity variation.) But, being reluctant to ever throw away anything that might be useful some day, I kept all those bits.

I might have to narrow them, as I'd originally envisioned a wider bench, but, between my Delta tenoning jig and my miter guide I could make short work of that.

I've also a pair of laminated 2x6's I'd fabricated for the main stretchers. Wouldn't be able to use those with your design. But at least I'd be able to save part of my old work.
 
#21 ·
SemiJim, What makes the 21st Century bench rack proof is the 1/2 dovetails with wedges. When the wedges are driven into the legs... the dovetails are so tight that the legs can not rack! My bench uses the dovetails on both the upper and lower stretchers. I did not use any bolts in my bench other than the eight 1/4" bolts that hold the bench top down to the legs. My face vice is held to the top using lag bolts. My end vice is a face vice that is lag bolted to the top on the right end. I recommend placing dog holes as needed... using experience as a guide for their layout. I used a traditional boiled linseed/turpentine/bees wax finish. I also use hard maple jaws with cork faces on each vice. I have occasionally removed the tool trays to be able to use clamps when needed, but to be honest, most of the time I merely slide the tool trays which provide enough opening to use clamps. I find the tool trays handy because I can keep readily used tools at the bench where it gives me easy access. I don't recommend the cast iron hold fasts (commonly sold at Rockler) because they don't hold fast very well without modification. I made holdfasts using 5/8" diameter round bar stock heated and bent and they work nicely.

I would also consider building the basic Roubo style base as a portable type bench...but would use the dovetail/wedge idea (as in 21st century bench) to prevent racking. This would help you to keep the legs tight at the stretcher joint (and is especially helpful if using soft wood like pine). Because pine compresses easily, when the wood compresses during normal use, a gentle tap on the wedge tightens the joint. The other thing I would use is a regular quick release type vice.
 
#22 ·
SemiJim, What makes the 21st Century bench rack proof is the 1/2 dovetails with wedges.[
When the wedges are driven into the legs... the dovetails are so tight that the legs can not rack!
Understood.

I'm probably going to stick with that design for that reason. I don't expect to hand-plane often, but, when I do I know it's important that the bench stay put. (Heck, once I have a stable bench with which to work, perhaps I'll hand-plane more.)

My face vice is held to the top using lag bolts. My end vice is a face vice that is lag bolted to the top on the right end.
I planned to use inserts and machine bolts. My end vise will be a small face vise.

I also acquired a Kreg clamping jig that will fasten further along the face of the benchtop to aid the face vise in securing longer pieces.

I recommend placing dog holes as needed... using experience as a guide for their layout.
I figured on spacing them at somewhat less than each vise's opening distance. I need to read up on the various arguments wrt dog hole location, first.

I've already acquired 3/4 in. I.D. sleeve bearings with which to create jigs and a 3/4 in. brad point drill for drilling the holes.

I also use hard maple jaws with cork faces on each vice.
I've got various bits of hardwood I've been keeping around for that purpose. (IIRC, the smaller vise that will be used for the end vise has hardwood faces already on it.)

Because pine compresses easily, when the wood compresses during normal use, a gentle tap on the wedge tightens the joint.
*nod*

The other thing I would use is a regular quick release type vice.
My face vise is a quick-release vise. I believe it's a Record. IIRC, I snagged it when it was on sale at Woodcraft at the time.
 
#28 ·
#24 ·
That guys has his plane tuned up perfectly ....

Quite the old wood base hand plane he's using. Sharp as a cat's claw from the ease of which he removes the shavings from that scrap piece of Pine. Cool idea as well. :vs_cool:
 
#27 ·
Quite the old wood base hand plane he's using. Sharp as a cat's claw from the ease of which he removes the shavings from that scrap piece of Pine. Cool idea as well. :vs_cool:
Yes, I try to keep mine that sharp. A wooden plane is a little more difficult to adjust... but uses a lot less effort to use because they weigh less and are more slippery. Although they can get beat up if used over rough wood. And I love the sound.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Sorry for being late to this show,

Heres a portable work bench that looks like it may fit your needs has plenty of storage ad rolls out of the way, can be custom built to any size you want



Heres another one Im going to build for a friend who lives in a alp and doesnt have a garage so he needs portability



either one of these may meet your needs. Of course you can change things to meet your needs.

Then theres the ron Paulk Workbench, a lotta folks have built this and like it, very portable and you can adust the size to meet your needs, he sell his plans if you want to build one



hope this helps
 
#29 ·
Sorry for being late to this show,

Heres a portable work bench that looks like it may fit your needs ...
Thanks for the suggestion, but that's not the kind of thing I have in mind. What I have in mind is to create a woodworker's bench, complete with face and end vises, bench dog holes, etc.
 
#31 ·
Unless you plan on doing heavy timber work and beating chisels and dowels into your projects, a heavy duty workbench that needs to be portable is way over kill. For modern mostly power tool woodworking a large flat table surface is all you need. The Paulk workbench or something smaller is all you need, and it will be easier on you to put it away and take it out for use. Heck, an old flat surfaced door on two saw horses will make a pretty good workbench if the saw horses are waist high. Why kill yourself trying to move around a heavy workbench, unless you have a tendency to enjoy hammering and chopping type woodworking..

Charley
 
#33 ·
Unless you plan on doing heavy timber work and beating chisels and dowels into your projects, a heavy duty workbench that needs to be portable is way over kill.
A heavy, or at least heavy-ish, workbench is also necessary for hand planing. Which I have done and will do. (See previously-posted video.) I want something adequate for supporting face and end vises, as well as bench dogs.

Besides: I already have the top and the vises. Makes no sense to leave that stuff sit when I already have it.

I sharpen to 8000 grit oil stone, then leather strop green wax compound, ...
I use Japanese water stones and stop at the green compound, but otherwise much the same. And I've a Delta Sharpening Center for restoring badly-abused edges.

Anyway... My memory fooled me. I never did restore that #4C :( Luckily it's not so bad that it will require major restoration to make it usable. The edge of the iron doesn't even look too bad. And, I just discovered, I've a Stanley Bailey #4 that I think is in even better shape, so I might just get to work on that one, instead.

I lucked into that Bailey #4 and a #5. Ex-colleague one day said "Hey, I got a couple hand planes we found in my grandfather's stuff. You interested?" "Sure." I looked at 'em. "How much you want?" "How 'bout the price of a nice dinner for my wife and I?" "They're worth far more than that," I told him. He insisted. So I gave him I think $25 for the pair.

I'd already been getting out of the woodworking thing by then, but I wasn't going to let those get away :)
 
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