Building a head board for bed - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Duane Bledsoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 570
View Duane Bledsoe's Photo Album My Photos
Building a head board for bed

I am making a head board for a bed. It will be painted and is being done on a budget so I'm just using number 2 common pine boards. I have eleven 1x6 uprights (styles?) about 18 inches long that will be edge joined with glue and tongue in groove joinery. This will form the broadest area of the head board. I routed the grooves 1/4 in deep and wide on one side and a matching tongue on the opposite side. I'm wondering about expansion and any problems I might experience since they will be tight together and the 4x4 posts will be on each end of it tight to the last upright on the row. There will be nothing left loose to expand like with raised panel work.

Also there will be a 2x6 rail on edge across the top and bottom of the uprights with tongue in groove joinery as well. So, basically the uprights actually have a tongue routed on 3 sides of them with a groove on one side, and are sandwiched in between the top and bottom rails. This makes it sort of resemble a picket fence with no gaps in it.

Then there will be mortise and tenon joinery done on the ends of the 2x6s where they meet the posts. I have no idea how deep or wide to do those. It will be my first attempt at this joinery. I figured on 1/2 to 1 full inch thick tenons and 4 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches deep. That's about as deep as my 1/4 inch spiral bit will cut. The mortises will be in the 4x4 posts that are Douglas Fir. They're the only thing in the project that are nicer than just common pine lumber. All the lumber was bought at Lowe's.

Across the very top there will be a 2x6 ripped to width, laying flat, and joined to the edge of the top rail 2x6 just below it by one long tongue in groove joint. I can add nails or screws in behind it to assist in holding it all since the back will be next to the wall and not seen. From the front and sides there can be no fasteners in view though.

Can you think of any problems I might run into?

I know this isn't the ideal furniture project using the highest grade woods and flawless techniques. It's a learner project for me. A lot of what I'm doing, I've never done before like the joinery used in it for example.

Last edited by Duane Bledsoe; 10-28-2012 at 01:26 PM.
Duane Bledsoe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 04:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I would glue up the panel for the headboard as one piece however I would dado and insert it in the framing of the top and bottom and end posts without glue. It should float like the panel in a cabinet door because the panel over time will shrink and if it is glued in will split. You might also chamfer the boards to give it a V groove look. I think 1/2" x 1 1/2" tenon is plenty. You could add nails or screws to pin the tenons but personally I would just glue it and leave it at that. If you have a metal frame be sure to allow a place for the metal frame to bolt to the headboard. On 4x4 posts you could just bolt the metal frame to the headboard with lag screws.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Duane Bledsoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 570
View Duane Bledsoe's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for the response. I plan to do V grooves where each upright come together for looks. I had not planned to join them at all to the posts, however. I was just going to let the top and bottom rails hold them in place. But after reading your reply I now think that I may end up seeing a gap between the posts and the uprights if I don't do some type of groove joinery. I already ripped the edges of the last two end uprights off clean. If I want to make them go into the posts then I will need to remake those two parts or dado another channel in each and glue in a filler piece to make the connection to the posts. I have the wood to make them new and that's probably the easiest way.
Duane Bledsoe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 08:17 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,005
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
maybe some help here

Check out this thread. Some of your concerns are similar:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/mi...d-build-37911/


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-28-2012 at 10:36 PM.
woodnthings is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 09:32 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
This is what I was picturing you doing. If you make a 1/2 mortise for the rail tenon you could just run a dado between the two mortises and inset the panel in the posts.

Attached Images
 
Steve Neul is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Duane Bledsoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 570
View Duane Bledsoe's Photo Album My Photos
That's pretty much it.
Duane Bledsoe is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 10:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 576
View Midlandbob's Photo Album My Photos
Do you plan to have one 60 inch panel across the bed? The seasonal movement would be as much as .75 or more dependimg on your humidity shift and how much of your wood is quartercut vs flat(tangentially cut).. You probably should make at least three panels across. The rails and styles would best be max. 4 inches wide and perhaps 3 inches with max. 2 inch tenons.
Perhaps I don't understand your plan. Could you put a sketch up.?
I've done single beds with 5 panels of 2 inches ans nd side styles 3.5 inches.
Bob
Midlandbob is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Duane Bledsoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 570
View Duane Bledsoe's Photo Album My Photos
The panel will be 57 3/4 inches wide by 18 tall, plus the 1/4 inch tongues that fit into full length slots on the rails. The panel will be made up of 11 individual 1x6 boards routed to fit together using tongue in groove joints, and glued. All the wood is plain sawn or flat sawn, none quartered or rift sawn. It is just common stock 1x6 wood off the shelf at Lowe's. I live in eastern KY, and the humidity does vary here some. Right now it's very humid with all the rain we've had. I've had the wood here at home for 2 weeks acclimating to my shop environment but beyond that I don't know what to do. I already cut all the parts for the main panel, and did the grooves in the rails to hold it, but have not yet done the mortises in the posts or the tenons on the rails.

An idea just occurred to me. Don't know why I didn't think of it before. Since it will be painted, I could have just used a large piece of birch plywood for the panel. I am going to V groove the edges of each board where they meet to accent that they are separate boards. The same look can be achieved with V grooves spaced evenly across the plywood. If this exposed the layer lines, paint would hide it again.

My wife saw how it was coming along and loves the look of it now, and has suggested we stain it instead of painting it. Now I may be locked into using the 1x6 boards after all.

I'll try to draw and post a sketch tomorrow. The one above that Steve posted is basically what I'm doing but doesn't show the panel. It will be in between the two rails. Rails are just pine 2x6s on edge, posts are Doug Fir 4x4s.

Last edited by Duane Bledsoe; 10-28-2012 at 11:14 PM.
Duane Bledsoe is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 10-28-2012, 11:51 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 576
View Midlandbob's Photo Album My Photos
You are right about the birch plywood.

If you use the glue up, you do not need to tongue and groove the boards. Just joint and glue up.
Will wait for picture if I get back.
Bob
Midlandbob is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 10-29-2012, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Duane Bledsoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 570
View Duane Bledsoe's Photo Album My Photos
Wow! Really? I already did the tongue and groove routing though. I don't own a jointer so jointing them correctly with straight sides was going to be difficult. I've read about edge gluing things like this for table tops but I thought the boards were usually much skinnier, like 3 inches or less. Mine have 5 1/4 inches of face showing. Would that still have been possible?

I really want to thank you all so much for showing interest in helping me with this. I'm sure you can tell that I've done some reading about wood working with some of the terms I've used to describe what I'm doing but you can also tell that I'm very much a novice at this as well. I need all the instruction I can get.

Last edited by Duane Bledsoe; 10-29-2012 at 07:07 AM.
Duane Bledsoe is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wood side rails, metal head and foot board dsdurkes General Woodworking Discussion 4 01-10-2011 09:59 AM
Log Head Board frame help elks General Woodworking Discussion 3 11-30-2010 11:20 PM
Accu-Head spiral cutter head for planers/jointers jeffreythree Tool Reviews 1 09-11-2010 02:23 AM
Mattress Frame w/head & foot Board carpenter1 General Woodworking Discussion 2 07-11-2010 10:26 AM
full size norther white cedar head/foot board ESCANABAJOSH Project Showcase 29 09-23-2008 05:04 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome