Bridal Chest Lid - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Bridal Chest Lid

Over a year later, I'm still working on the bridal chest that was supposed to be a wedding present for my son and his wife.
The chest has been done for over 8 months, and I've been juggling it between my 2 benches.
My problem is the lid. This is the third lid I've built, and I screwed it up too, but I really don't want to build a fourth. I won't bore you with the mistakes I made, but this last lid is solid wood, which potato chipped on me, even after taking all the precautions ( acclimating the wood before milling, milling in steps over a few weeks time, only removing small amounts from both sides each time, etc.)

After hand planing the final glue up ( 24" x 45")I ended up with a lid a little better than 5/8" thick. It does not look right on the chest.
My plan is to glue my 2nd attempt to my third attempt, gluing the worst side of 2nd lid to worst side of 3rd lid, to give me some thickness.
The 2nd lid was made from veneered 3/4" mdf with a mahogany frame. The 3rd lid is solid mahogany 5/8".
Do any of you foresee any issues with my plan?
Any and all guidance and direction is welcome, as well as criticism. You can't hurt my feelings or pride any more than I've hurt them myself!!!

Thanks,

Jim


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post #2 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 01:46 PM
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It sounds like TROUBLE with a capital T!!! glue real wood to veneer/mdf gaurantees a BOW if the moisture changes. The real wood will attempt to move and the mdf ...well it's got a mind of its own and it's worse.....not allowed in my shop most of the time but has it's places....I guesssssssss????

What is it you don't like with the solid wood lid....too then??? add a taller edge to appear thicker...add another 3/4 or 5/8 thickness around perimeter band. Sorry I guess I overlooked or just forgot the other issues. NoRmAlLy we have good answers for problems (sssshhhhh don't tell anyone....WE'VE all been down most of these path problems, IF one says they've never made a mistake....they're LYING!!!!)

Post the old thread links or tell us the issues.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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My first attempt at a lid was with the same ribbon strip quarter sawn sapele that the frame of the chest was made from. I ran out of that stock and could not source any more locally.

So I ordered the ribbon stripe sapele veneer for the mdf and it turned out great. Then I sanded thru the veneer. Whoops!!!
So I toiled for hours learning how to make a corner fan from veneer. Ok. Finally got it. Was routing out for the corner fan and went outside the line by about 1/4". There goes that lid to @($:$:"($.
Now the potato chipped lid made from the african mahogany that the panels on the chest are made from


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post #4 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 06:58 PM
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The chest looks nice. I think you can probably salvage at least one of the tops to finish it off.

The first picture if it's solid wood and the only complaint is the thickness you can glue a band of wood under the top to increase the thickness. You would have to keep all the grain running the same direction as the top with the strips on the ends being cross grain. If the top is the veneered one, isn't the MDF too heavy for that application? You don't want to hear a few years from now grandchildren dropping a heavy lid on their fingers.

The second picture unless it's the veneered top you can't band it with wood like that. If it's solid wood when the wood shrinks it will split. Just be sure the wood is sized big enough to mount the hinge hardware.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 07:28 PM
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A few more ideas ...

Without seeing the tops, it's hard to diagnose the problems but here goes. The lid no. 3? where the router went off line can be salvaged if you trim that portion off the other corners OR just make that mistake a design element on the other 3 corners.

Why the tops warped? Sometimes a glue up will warp if it's not evenly exposed to air on both sides or if there is heat on one side only.. This is hard to avoid, but as soon as practical stand the assembly vertically away from a wall or other surface.

Another reason my be the end boards are glued to the ends on the long boards and that may cause a twist in the drying process. A little tension on a end board can cause the corner to tip up. If the glue up does not have air moving under it when the glue is setting that also adds to the issues.

Your idea of gluing no. 2 to no.3 will make it very heavy. It may work, it may not, but there is nothing to lose by trying it since they are both destined to be trashed. You could also add a wide border of contrasting wood all around to eliminate any mistakes.

a few ideas.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-24-2016 at 07:38 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Steve. I bought the Rockler torsion hinges, so weight isn't a problem. The second pic is the veneered mdf. If I add the 3/8" to the bottom of the lid, should I make it so the 3/8" rests on the top edge of the chest, or let it overhang the sides of the chest?
I only have 9/16" overhang on all sides except the back


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post #7 of 7 Old 11-24-2016, 08:04 PM
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From what I read about the specifications on the hinge if you put the back edge of the top right at the edge of the hinge the part that mounts on the lid is a minimum of 1 9/16". I believe to prevent the screws from splitting the 3/8" strip I would make it at least 2 1/2" wide.
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