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Box joints in the end of a long board

8K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  mmwood_1 
#1 ·
I'm making a bookshelf, it's 7ft long. I'd like to use a box joint to connect the ends to the verticals, but the only jigs I've seen, home made or purchased, require the board standing up on your table saw or router. I can't imagine it's too practical running a 7ft board along my saw or router table on end. What I'd like is some method where the board is flat and my router can be held horizontally to make the passes across the end.

Has anyone seen such a jig, or is hand-cutting :shiver: the only way?
 
#5 ·
Frankly, I like the marking and hand-sawing approach the best.

This jig might work for you. Watch this video:


Here is the website with the plans:
https://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season12/1207/

Season 12 plans are still available for free, and if you search on the page for "Episode 12 Plans: Finger Joint Jig", you can download it, but an email registration is required. Get the plans while you can. Each new season, they drop an older season off the "free plans" list. I think they only make three seasons available for free.

Note: There are requirements for choosing the correct router bits to use with this jig. Read the plans.

I am not sure how I would arrange it for a 7 foot board, but it seems like a possible approach for a long board if you insist on power tools.
 
#6 ·
I actually built that jig, and just could not get it near as accurate as the tried and true "hop over the pin" technique on the table saw. So I have the parts of it, and you're right I'm sure there would be a way to attach it to a horizontal board. But from my last experience with it, I suspect hand-cutting would give me more success.
 
#7 · (Edited)
#8 ·
As it has been said a back saw and coping saw is good advice. Although I would use a sharp chisel to get a good clean fitting joint. And because you'll be cutting sideways or extreme up and down use a Japanese Pull Saw.

The real key is to layout the joints carefully.

The other solution is to move your router table out onto the driveway.
 
#16 ·
It was not a link, post #24 in the tread:

Late to the party, there is a way to cut box joints on very long boards, if the inside of the corner is hidden such an apron for a table.

Reverse your miter gauge and make the standard back board and pin jig with the pin facing you, you will be raising the dado blade as high as possible so the end of the back board will be cut off.

The board lays flat on the saw and you push it through endways into the dado blade, fix a stop behind the miter gauge to make cuts of an even depth as you move the board from one notch to the next one. To keep the board straight the fence is moved tight to the board once the notch is on the pin.

The back of the cuts will be deeper due to the curvature of the blade but the front will fit like any other dado. If you wish you can hand finish the cuts deeper on the front for a tight joint.

This will also work for a chest that will be lined with cedar which will cover up the inside of the corner.
 
#18 ·
dave mills, I have a jig that I made for cutting 3/4" wide x 3/4" deep finger joints. Board lays flat, any width, any length. Slip the jig onto the end and cut with a 3/4" router bit. The drawback is that you cut one tooth, unclamp the jig and move it over. Then cut the next tooth. One at a time. It's a slow process, but accurate. If you are really interested in that I will try to set it up to show you what it looks like and how it works. I don't do videos, and right now, I am doing finish work in my shop, so I cannot actually cut a joint at this moment. But here's a picture of the joints it makes.
Furniture Wood Hardwood Wood stain Table
 
#20 ·
I will be done with finish work in two days, then I actually need to get out that jig and do a test run on it because I will be making finger joints on a console I am building next. It's not a joint I use a lot so I always need to do a test before cutting the joints. I will post pictures of it and the process, then, for anyone who wants to see it. If I can video it, I will.
 
#22 ·
I just posted that comment yesterday. I have more finish work to do in my shop today, then hopefully, on Monday I will be able to get to doing a trial run with the jig. I only use it every 4 or 5 years, so I always need to run a trial again, in case I need to adjust. I will have pics by mid-week, I expect. I will try video, but I've never done it so, we'll see on that.
 
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