Bosch RA1181 router table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Bosch RA1181 router table

Does anyone know if the Bosch RA1181 router table comes with a plate for mounting the DW621K Dewalt router? The specs don't list it but I read some reviews that said you can mount almost any router to it.

Thanks.

Last edited by mntgoat; 09-15-2011 at 12:53 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mntgoat View Post
Does anyone know if the Bosch router table comes with a plate for mounting the DW621K Dewalt router? The specs don't list it but I read some reviews that said you can mount almost any router to it.

Thanks.
I think you need to drill that one yourself, no matter what router you have.

John

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post #3 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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I think you need to drill that one yourself, no matter what router you have.
How easy is it to drill your own holes? I'm kind of new to routers and just need a small table for a small project I have but I don't know what else I will be doing in the future so I didn't want to get those ultra cheap tables. Anything on the sub $250 range that you would recommend for my router?
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mntgoat View Post
How easy is it to drill your own holes? I'm kind of new to routers and just need a small table for a small project I have but I don't know what else I will be doing in the future so I didn't want to get those ultra cheap tables. Anything on the sub $250 range that you would recommend for my router?
Not difficult to drill. Just need to take your time. It's best to get it centered precisely in the hole. Not real critical unless you want to get into using guide bushings on the table or invest in box joint jigs or something like that. You can take the plastic base plate off your router and use it for a template for drilling the holes. I like to drill the holes a bit oversize and use counterbore s and pan head screws rather than countersinks with flat head screws. That way if you miss a little bit on the centering, it gives a little adjustment latitude.
As far as the table is concerned, the 1181 is pretty well regarded from what I have read. I'm not wild about the aluminum top though. For a $250 budget there are a lot of Benchtops around. I started with this one from MLCS:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...r_table_3.html
Picture is a little misleading, the fence is nowhere near that high though. I got the one with the foldup legs and still have it for when I don't want to run back and forth to the shop, just take it onsite.
Good Luck

John

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Not difficult to drill. Just need to take your time. It's best to get it centered precisely in the hole. Not real critical unless you want to get into using guide bushings on the table or invest in box joint jigs or something like that. You can take the plastic base plate off your router and use it for a template for drilling the holes. I like to drill the holes a bit oversize and use counterbore s and pan head screws rather than countersinks with flat head screws. That way if you miss a little bit on the centering, it gives a little adjustment latitude.
As far as the table is concerned, the 1181 is pretty well regarded from what I have read. I'm not wild about the aluminum top though. For a $250 budget there are a lot of Benchtops around. I started with this one from MLCS:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...r_table_3.html
Picture is a little misleading, the fence is nowhere near that high though. I got the one with the foldup legs and still have it for when I don't want to run back and forth to the shop, just take it onsite.
Good Luck
I'm assuming the hole drilling makes a big difference when it comes to the precision of the router? are there premade plates for my router dw621k?
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-15-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mntgoat View Post
I'm assuming the hole drilling makes a big difference when it comes to the precision of the router? are there premade plates for my router dw621k?
Hi - Doesn't make a huge difference unless you get into bushing use. Getting a drilled plate tends to bend the budget some.... I think most get and extra $25 provided you buy the plate from them for about $60+.
Rockler plate is 8-1/4 x 11-3/4 which doesn't fit a lot of tables. You could get Rockler predrilled plates for the 621 with this table:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...router%20table
Just order the "Group B" plate (double check that but I'm pretty sure it's right). You would need to build your own base with this table to come in on your budget.
If I remember right, the MLCS table I linked to earlier, the optional aluminum plate, while not drilled, did have a bunch of dimples on the under side for drilling mounting holes. None matched my Freud 1700 so I had to do it the hard way but odds are there would be a set matching the 621.
Like I said, centering doesn't have to be a big deal. The fence is set from the bit anyway, it's only when you add the router location into the equation of bit/fence location.
Good Luck.

John

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post #7 of 16 Old 09-16-2011, 10:51 AM
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If you let me know what the mounting dimensions are, I can check the table. I was just putting it together last night, it looks like it can handle many routers.
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-16-2011, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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If you let me know what the mounting dimensions are, I can check the table. I was just putting it together last night, it looks like it can handle many routers.
I don't have the router with me here but I found this which seems to be the mounting hole pattern
http://www.blackanddecker.com/siteim...%20Pattern.JPG

Which router table are you working with?
Thank you.
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post #9 of 16 Old 09-16-2011, 12:26 PM
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I'll check on the dimensions in the picture tonight when I get home. I have the BOSCH RA1181.
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-17-2011, 12:39 AM
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Ok, checked the table, here goes. Looking at your picture, your mounting holes are 115mm appart.

The compatible Dewalt routers listed are marked for hole pattern B, which is spread at 105mm, won't worked for you. I measured all of the rest, pattern F should work, it's seems to be at 115. Strange thing it's there on the mounting plate, but it's not listed in the manual, not even on the drawing.

Hope this helps.
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-17-2011, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nvladik View Post
Ok, checked the table, here goes. Looking at your picture, your mounting holes are 115mm appart.

The compatible Dewalt routers listed are marked for hole pattern B, which is spread at 105mm, won't worked for you. I measured all of the rest, pattern F should work, it's seems to be at 115. Strange thing it's there on the mounting plate, but it's not listed in the manual, not even on the drawing.

Hope this helps.
Thank you so much.
How do you like the table so far?
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-18-2011, 10:11 PM
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I like it... seems good for the money. The only complaint is that I wish it came assembled.
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-18-2011, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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I like it... seems good for the money. The only complaint is that I wish it came assembled.
Thank you, I just bought it on amazon, I hope it works, otherwise it's just five bucks to send it back so no biggie.
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-18-2011, 11:29 PM
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I've had this router table for a couple years. I wanted a quality router table but didn't have the room (or the $$) for a full sized, heavy duty model. I got it to use with my Porter Cable 7518, 3 1/4 hp Speedmatic, which is a great under-table router.

Guess what? The router didn't fit. I had to drill the mounting holes to match the router. It wasn't too bad but I had to overlap existing holes a bit when I countersunk them. All worked out, though.

I like the table and all the attachments that came with. One thing I'm not too fond of is the power switch, which some day I'll change to a bigger paddle switch.

I'll pass along a mistake I made so you won't repeat it. I made a stand with shelves for the table and mounted it on locking casters. Because the casters only lock the wheels and not the swivel mechanism, the table has a tendency to move around sometimes - which isn't good. I may replace the casters with feet or get the kind of caster that locks the wheel and the swivel.

Something I did that wasn't a mistake was that I made the stand so the table is the same height as my workbench - 36". So with the router table next to my workbench the bench can act as an infeed or outfeed table.

Bill
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-19-2011, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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I've had this router table for a couple years. I wanted a quality router table but didn't have the room (or the $$) for a full sized, heavy duty model. I got it to use with my Porter Cable 7518, 3 1/4 hp Speedmatic, which is a great under-table router.

Guess what? The router didn't fit. I had to drill the mounting holes to match the router. It wasn't too bad but I had to overlap existing holes a bit when I countersunk them. All worked out, though.

I like the table and all the attachments that came with. One thing I'm not too fond of is the power switch, which some day I'll change to a bigger paddle switch.

I'll pass along a mistake I made so you won't repeat it. I made a stand with shelves for the table and mounted it on locking casters. Because the casters only lock the wheels and not the swivel mechanism, the table has a tendency to move around sometimes - which isn't good. I may replace the casters with feet or get the kind of caster that locks the wheel and the swivel.

Something I did that wasn't a mistake was that I made the stand so the table is the same height as my workbench - 36". So with the router table next to my workbench the bench can act as an infeed or outfeed table.

Bill
Cool tips, thanks.
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post #16 of 16 Old 09-19-2011, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dodgeboy77 View Post
Something I did that wasn't a mistake was that I made the stand so the table is the same height as my workbench - 36". So with the router table next to my workbench the bench can act as an infeed or outfeed table.

Bill
Good tip on the casters. I've been putting swivels on all 4 corners with the front two locking the wheel and the swivel. That way it can go any direction and still lock down firmly.

John

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