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post #1 of 11 Old 01-04-2011, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Boring

I'm trying to drill into the center of a 4x4 for about 3-4 feet but have trouble tracking straight. Any one have any secrets on how to get a straight bore from top to bottom.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-05-2011, 02:08 AM
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Just a quick scribble. Any questions just ask. Ignore the white 'from point' box sorry
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-05-2011, 04:02 PM
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Along with the jig shown above, as you're drilling, you have to keep clearing the chips, especially with such a deep hole. I would back the bit out about every inch and blow out the hole with an air nozzle. Also, I would drill halfway from each direction so if there is a slight runoff or mismatch, it will be inside in the middle where it won't show.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-05-2011, 04:38 PM
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I had to build a drill but the smallest hole I could drill for any length was 2" without walking. I was doing 1.25" but in 8 feet it would come out of the side of a 12"x12" therefore forcing me up to 2".

"IF IT'S TOO TOUGH FOR THEM, IT'S JUST RIGHT FOR ME"
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-05-2011, 04:51 PM
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Where are you located?

"IF IT'S TOO TOUGH FOR THEM, IT'S JUST RIGHT FOR ME"
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 03:45 AM
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personally, I would resaw the 4 x 4 into halves, use a router with an edge guide and round-nose bit, rout half the groove in each side, then glue the halves back together.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpstewart View Post
personally, I would resaw the 4 x 4 into halves, use a router with an edge guide and round-nose bit, rout half the groove in each side, then glue the halves back together.
then they won't be 4x4s.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 08:30 AM
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Not a bad idea if..

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Originally Posted by jpstewart View Post
personally, I would resaw the 4 x 4 into halves, use a router with an edge guide and round-nose bit, rout half the groove in each side, then glue the halves back together.
You don't mind a glue joint that shows. A table saw dado will also work. Sure, you'll lose the 1/8" saw cut but, that may not matter. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You don't mind a glue joint that shows. A table saw dado will also work. Sure, you'll lose the 1/8" saw cut but, that may not matter. bill

The hole may need to be round for a reason (drilled).










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post #10 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 09:09 AM
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Google Gundrilling.

If I had to do what OP proposes....on the cheap....would try a cpl different approaches.

A pc of steel tubing with an OD approx 1/16 less than cutting tool OD.And theres the rub,would probably start with a spade bit(cheap)but would be prepared to use a router bit or even a 2 flute end mill(they can be had with reduced shanks that would fit in tubing and yield the 1/16 "over" cut radius).And tig it to the end of tubing.Using sliding pillow blocks would get the alignment correct at the start.....moving them on a rail system or doing away with them as hole gets deeper.The notion is that the tubing OD keeps it cntrd,well as much as the 1/32 side clearence allowed.Chips may build up in tubing?They're deffinately gonna build up in hole so constant clearing is a givin(as mentioned by firehawkmph).

The things that would concern me most is:

Cutting action of tip on endgrain.....and would have to experiment with different forms.

Speed/feed

Boring bar stiffness and straightness

And trying to come up with a cheaper better alternative(bust it,dado it,glue it back together.And how finished product could be made stiffer as a result......then compare that with the "hassle factor" of trying to bore it)than boring.

Best of luck,BW


On edit.......a bushing could be machined for end of tubing that would allow cutting tool to spin independently of outer tubing.......the reason would be for chip extraction during cut.Don't think it would work but a shop vac connected to a WYE in the azz end(so as to not interfere with drill motor)of tubing might work?Probably go with above welding a solid boring bar.

Last edited by BWSmith; 01-08-2011 at 09:15 AM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-08-2011, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWSmith View Post
Google Gundrilling.

If I had to do what OP proposes....on the cheap....would try a cpl different approaches.

A pc of steel tubing with an OD approx 1/16 less than cutting tool OD.And theres the rub,would probably start with a spade bit(cheap)but would be prepared to use a router bit or even a 2 flute end mill(they can be had with reduced shanks that would fit in tubing and yield the 1/16 "over" cut radius).And tig it to the end of tubing.Using sliding pillow blocks would get the alignment correct at the start.....moving them on a rail system or doing away with them as hole gets deeper.The notion is that the tubing OD keeps it cntrd,well as much as the 1/32 side clearence allowed.Chips may build up in tubing?They're deffinately gonna build up in hole so constant clearing is a givin(as mentioned by firehawkmph).

The things that would concern me most is:

Cutting action of tip on endgrain.....and would have to experiment with different forms.

Speed/feed

Boring bar stiffness and straightness

And trying to come up with a cheaper better alternative(bust it,dado it,glue it back together.And how finished product could be made stiffer as a result......then compare that with the "hassle factor" of trying to bore it)than boring.

Best of luck,BW


On edit.......a bushing could be machined for end of tubing that would allow cutting tool to spin independently of outer tubing.......the reason would be for chip extraction during cut.Don't think it would work but a shop vac connected to a WYE in the azz end(so as to not interfere with drill motor)of tubing might work?Probably go with above welding a solid boring bar.
Have you been in my shop while we were core drilling? You have the right idea but I have found that self feeding 2" milwalkee or the likes with 12" extension welded to the end of a long peice of 1.5" black pipe which is 1/32 smaller than the bit, use a cabinet saw with sliding table, attach a rigid 300 pipe threading motor to it and whala. Smaller bit and pipe will still track in long distance.

"IF IT'S TOO TOUGH FOR THEM, IT'S JUST RIGHT FOR ME"
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