Blade sharpening - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Blade sharpening

So I picked this blade up last night...the sharpening seems to be done, but they pretty well destroyed the coating on the blade. Anyone else have this experience with blade sharpeners? Blade sharpening-imageuploadedbywood-working-talk1421518206.585006.jpg

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post #2 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 02:19 PM
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I've never had a painted blade sharpened. To me it looks like the paint was failing and when they cleaned it, it removed the failing paint. Is that the way they returned the blade to you? Any time I have had a blade sharpened they coat the teeth with a rubber coating.

You might sand the blade off and spray it with some paint. Personally I would spray it with a Teflon paint.
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post #3 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 02:31 PM
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There aren't any "painted" blades AFAIK

They are powder coated or Teflon coated. I don't think you can buy Teflon spray paint, but I could be wrong. The coatings are baked on for permanence.

You can get a Teflon spray lube, but not a paint:
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page...flon%20Coating

If you want a "pretty" blade then, sand it off with a flap wheel or remove it with a "scrubby" pad on an air die grinder. If it's just a rough cut blade then you may not want to go to all the trouble, that's up to you. It will still cut just as well because the teeth are offset from the plate of the blade enough so the wood doesn't touch the plate when in use.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-17-2015 at 02:34 PM.
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post #4 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 02:35 PM
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You might ask them what they cleaned it with and avoid having them or any other sharpening service use that product on painted blade cleaning in the future. :)
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post #5 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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The coating was in good shape when they got it. I'm not concerned about the looks of it, I think given its current condition I'll just clean it off with a wire brush.

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post #6 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 04:44 PM
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Holy crap, did they do the sharpening with an angle grinder? O.o

So long as that's just cosmetic you should be fine, but you may want to grab a straightedge and make sure the blade isnt warped before using it

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post #7 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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The sharpening is actually pretty good, it's just the cosmetics

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #8 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 06:01 PM
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What brand of blade is it. All I can see is it was made in Italy.

Powder coating is a type paint however I don't think that blade is powder coated. You can get Teflon paint in a rattle can at Tractor Supply.
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post #9 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 06:07 PM
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My guess would be it's Freud.
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post #10 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 06:42 PM
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I looked/searched ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
What brand of blade is it. All I can see is it was made in Italy.

Powder coating is a type paint however I don't think that blade is powder coated. You can get Teflon paint in a rattle can at Tractor Supply.
I still say it is not painted, but coated and the difference is the blade must be heated for the coating to adhere. Paint would not adhere to a metal surface like a saw blade subject to the heat generated by friction in use. JMO


From the description of a Freud Blade:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R008.../dp/B0000223KY

Perma-SHIELD Coating Reduces Friction and Heat Buildup
Built to withstand tough use in less-than-ideal conditions, this blade is finished with Freud's red Perma-SHIELD--a non-stick coating that reduces friction and nearly eliminates the heat buildup that excess friction can cause. By providing complete thermal insulation, this coating protects your tools and your work surface. And it resists binding when the blade is used for large-volume cutting applications, which reduces blade warp.
As a lubricating feature, Perma-SHIELD allows the blade to spin freely while reducing stress on the motor and carriage of your saw. In addition, this coating helps prevent debris collection and resin or "pitch" buildup. Since gummy pitch buildup causes extra drag on the motor of your saw, less buildup is another little convenience that translates into longer tool life and longer blade life. It also means less downtime for blade cleaning, so you get jobs done faster.

I could not find any Teflon Paint on line or at TSC.
Do you have a link?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 07:39 PM
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Your right there is no Teflon paint on Tractor Supply's web site. I saw it in the store and thought it was a good idea. This is the only low friction paint I could find on-line. http://www.agspecialty.com/EZslide.htm

I don't understand what you mean about the blade getting hot. If the blade is kept sharp it shouldn't generate that much heat, at least to a level it would harm normal paint. I think if you would prime a saw blade any rattle can would adhere to a blade. The issue is it would rub the paint off as it did on Ryan's blade. Anyway any coating one of us could put on a blade wouldn't be near as good as what the factory does but you can't send the blade back to the factory for a fresh paint job.
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post #12 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not painting the blade guys, so it's a moot point.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #13 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:08 PM
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Paint has no value on the blade except when new. Half the time I can't tell I got Amana blades after they come back....
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post #14 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:12 PM
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We know that but....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
I'm not painting the blade guys, so it's a moot point.
To you, but maybe not for others here. If you have your answer, then that's great.

In my opinion, this issue is still worthy of discussion, because folks here use various cleaning agents from Simple Green, to Easy off and some tend to damage or remove the coating, at least in my experience. If the blade sharpener you or others used has significantly reduced the performance of the blade because the caoting has been removed, you or other may have "claim" against them.

"Painting" the blade may make it look "pretty" again, but I doubt it will restore the friction resistant coating from the factory and that's my point.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-17-2015 at 08:35 PM.
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post #15 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:15 PM
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Honestly, I think the coating is more of a marketing thing, the carbide is wider than the plate so the plate shouldn't be making contact (at least in theory). None of my industrial blades have any paint/coating. If you ever have any teeth replaced the soldering process will destroy whatever paint is on the blade anyway.

The tools don't make the craftsman......a true statement often overused by individuals who haven't a clue about quality tools or true craftsmanship.
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post #16 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wericha View Post
Honestly, I think the coating is more of a marketing thing, the carbide is wider than the plate so the plate shouldn't be making contact (at least in theory). None of my industrial blades have any paint/coating. If you ever have any teeth replaced the soldering process will destroy whatever paint is on the blade anyway.
BINGO.....We have a winner.
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post #17 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:27 PM
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On coated blades I have had sharpened there are circular rub marks in the paint but nothing like your picture. If it bothers you scrape it off. Unless it sheets off it isn't dangerous and if the grind is good cosmetics are irrelevant. I would however use a different sharpening service from now on.

I agree with Wericha. The paint is a marketing thing.
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post #18 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:51 PM
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It ain't paint

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Huisenga View Post
On coated blades I have had sharpened there are circular rub marks in the paint but nothing like your picture.
I agree with Wericha. The paint is a marketing thing.
Well, which is it, paint or a coating?
Other blades of high quality like the Marples also have a heat resistant coating also aids in cleaning off the build up of gum:
http://www.irwin.com/tools/circular-...lar-saw-blades

Some are for cutting treated wood:
http://justsawblades.com/ten/silencer-series.html

It ain't paint, and whether it's a marketing ploy is debatable, but I'm on the side of it's more efficient with than without. If almost everyone is doing it at an added manufacturing cost, it could hardly be a "ploy".

These blades have a Nickle coating:
http://www.infinitytools.com/SAW-BLA...artments/1026/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #19 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Well the plate of the blade does contact wood, as most of the printing was rubbed off prior to sharpening. I tried the blade again tonight, and it's sharp, but doesn't leave as clean a cut as it used to I don't think. I suspect I'll be ordering a new blade and this will become a roughing blade.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #20 of 56 Old 01-17-2015, 08:57 PM
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I have a Frued Teflon coated blade. The coating helps make the blade run quieter and also the sap from wood doesn't stick to the blade like non-coated blades do. In this case the blade is better for it.

I did find some Permashield paint. http://www.monopoleinc.com/pdf/PREMI...TION_GUIDE.pdf

Last edited by Steve Neul; 01-17-2015 at 09:06 PM.
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