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post #1 of 9 Old 07-26-2017, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Best way to affix

I'm building some storage boxes out of 23/32 pine plywood. Dimensions are 22x14.5x7.5. It will hold approx 50 lb.

My question is what Is the best way to affix the full bottom piece. It covers the entire bottom. I build 10 at a time and want something that is strong and effective. But does not take a long time.

My ideas

Pocket Hole screws and Titebond 2 ( I tried this, it's strong, don't like the look and time)

Titebond 2 only (would like to avoid clamping)

Titebond 2 and brad nails ( with Brads could I avoid clamping?, I'd prefer this if the glue is strong enough and Brads can hold the clamp)

Other screws from the bottom into the sides and Titebond 2

And you suggestions as well.

In the photos you have
1. Finished product
2. Pic of the edge that I would screw/nail into
3. Board piece I need to affix.
4. General picture of what the bottom of the box looks like.

I appreciate the guidance.










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post #2 of 9 Old 07-26-2017, 11:20 AM
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There are a few traditional solutions to this problem.

1) Glue and nails. If you put the nails in at an angle (10-15 degrees off perpendicular) they'll provide a little bit of strength. Going into a plywood edge, though, they're still going to be pretty weak.

2) Inset and blocks. Cut the bottom to fit inside the case, and fasten blocks to take the weight underneath. Those you can glue and screw to the plywood, then glue the bottom to the blocks. In each case it's face grain to face grain, so it's a pretty strong bond.

3) Routed slot for the bottom. Before you glue up the sides, cut a groove parallel to the bottom edge of each side, and maybe half an inch up. Fit the bottom into the slot while doing the glue up. You can glue and/or nail the bottom in place, and it would probably be a good idea. Neither the glue nor the nails will contribute much strength (no matter what, you're going to be looking at a face- to end-grain glue joint somewhere), but they'll help.

I hope this is helpful!
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-26-2017, 11:42 AM
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A biscuit machine would be fast and strong. Then the bottom would help the sides stay together, and a biscuit in each side would be good.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-26-2017, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amckenzie4 View Post
There are a few traditional solutions to this problem.

snip

3) Routed slot for the bottom. Before you glue up the sides, cut a groove parallel to the bottom edge of each side, and maybe half an inch up. Fit the bottom into the slot while doing the glue up. You can glue and/or nail the bottom in place, and it would probably be a good idea. Neither the glue nor the nails will contribute much strength (no matter what, you're going to be looking at a face- to end-grain glue joint somewhere), but they'll help.

I hope this is helpful!
With this method you could use thinner ply for the bottom, it can float or be glued in place, much like making a drawer.

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 10:15 AM
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Just curious as to why the use of TB 2. Are you planning on using these outside? If they don't need to be water resistant, TB 1 is what I'd use.
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 11:29 AM
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Add "metal box corners" to your options.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 01:19 PM
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+1 on the groove near the bottom. the end of the groove will show on your butt joints, and will need filled. or, you can use rabbet joints on the sides and the groove will be hidden.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post
Just curious as to why the use of TB 2. Are you planning on using these outside? If they don't need to be water resistant, TB 1 is what I'd use.


TB2 is what I have a gallon of. Is TB 1 stronger for this application?


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post #9 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I did a test with Titebond 2 and Spax 1.5" #8 screws.

Loaded the box up with excess weight and it holds well.



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