Best walnut putty - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 05-22-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 211
View RichO's Photo Album My Photos
Best walnut putty

I am going to be doing an entire kitchen in walnut and there are just sometimes when I need some putty to fill any cracks. Because we use Famowood at work that was the first one I tried but I found out that it is too light colored for clear coated walnut and any puttied spots stand out.

I have also used Timbermate in the past but not their walnut. I am wondering if that is better.

Any suggestions on this? I am not really ambitious enough to make my own using sawdust.

Thanks
RichO is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 05:11 PM
Junior Member
 
keith204's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 16
View keith204's Photo Album My Photos
This may not be what you're looking for, but I'm a huge fan of epoxy w/ black TransTint dye on Walnut.

Here's a quick way to clean it up with a router:
(video from my old personal YT channel)
keith204 is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 08:04 PM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,978
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
You can adjust the color of any wood putty, even bondo. In fact most woodputty comes in a natural color, it would be necessary to fix it to match walnut.

The colorants a paint store has in their machines to tint paint is a universal color tint. You might see if you can get them to dispense some burnt umber in a container for you. Add that to the famowood and it will match. If they don't have burnt umber you can mix raw umber and red oxide to make burnt umber. A little goes a long way so go easy with it. Probably less than a half teaspoon of burnt umber to a full can of famowood would do it. Be sure to try it out on scrap first.
Steve Neul is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 211
View RichO's Photo Album My Photos
I did add some brown wood stain to a sample of the putty and it helped, but seems that it would slightly stain the wood wherever the putty touched and would have to be sanded off. That would be a pain in the tight inside corners of molding profiles. I might have to check with a paint store.

Years ago I did a walnut project and used Elmers walnut wood filler which matched the natural walnut perfectly but it appears to have cracked in some spots over time.

I also learned not to use Titebond dark wood glue with natural finished walnut. It dries way too dark.

Epoxy looks great for flat surfaces but there are going to be a lot of profiles and tight corners areas to deal with.

Thanks for the replies.
RichO is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 09:07 PM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,978
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
The problem with adding stain to famowood is the stain has oils in it that are not compatible with the famowood. While it may have the pigment needed the oils will ruin the integrity of the putty.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 211
View RichO's Photo Album My Photos
Interesting to know. They tint the putty at work and I thought they used regular wood stain for that. I will have to ask.

What about Transtint? Supposed to be compatible with most anything. I have a bottle of brown mahogany but might be too red.
RichO is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 05-23-2019, 10:29 PM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,978
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
I don't use Transtint so I couldn't say. If you don't have to use a lot of it, it should work. It's just that if you add too much of anything to it or something incompatible it quits being wood putty.

What I use is more similar to this. http://homesteadfinishingproducts.co...olorants-utcs/. For the DIY it's pretty expensive. A bottle like that would probably last the DIY a lifetime and then from time to time you would have to add a little water and stir it. Difficult through the neck of a bottle. That is why I suggested purchasing some tint from a paint store. Just take a little jar with you and get an ounce or two.
Steve Neul is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve Neul For This Useful Post:
RichO (05-24-2019)
post #8 of 10 Old 05-24-2019, 10:01 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 2,837
View TimPa's Photo Album My Photos
wow, thanks for the famowood lead. we have been using the dap wood filler product but they discontinued colors other than natural a year or so ago. and the dap dried out easy and quickly.


I have been tinting it with stain to help get colors. but the stain does soak into the adjacent wood sometimes.


my rule of thumb - apply a filler that is darker than the wood itself. darker "spots" are much less noticeable than lighter spots.
TimPa is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 05-24-2019, 10:26 PM
Mark Jones Ozark
 
Mark Jones Ozark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ozark, Missouri
Posts: 67
View Mark Jones Ozark's Photo Album My Photos
Filling holes is tricky business. A good trim man showed me to prestain then stain and finish the work and then mix some filler that matches and push it in the holes. As the project is already finished the wood filler won't blemish the work and need much more than rubbing over the area with your thumb and then if your really a neat finish guy spray or brush on the last coat of clear over that. It works out really well.
Mark Jones Ozark is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 05-24-2019, 10:46 PM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,978
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Another way of filling holes without staining the wood is to put masking tape around the hole or crack first. Also when building a cabinet put tape on first and then shoot nails through the tape. That way you only putty the nail hole.
Steve Neul is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
End grain cutting board cracks in walnut Tom Hoppe General Woodworking Discussion 11 12-04-2018 11:53 AM
Staining or dyeing walnut andy r m General Woodworking Discussion 12 10-25-2018 01:25 AM
Different Species of Walnut? Or different Finish? Levi Durston Wood Finishing 6 06-05-2018 01:17 PM
Walnut and maple breadboard jeremymcon Project Showcase 3 02-05-2018 09:17 PM
Curly Maple and Walnut cross - build thread difalkner Project Showcase 26 04-23-2017 04:25 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome