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post #1 of 8 Old 01-03-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Best router table

Hello everyone, I'm building a router table and was wondering what would be the best table top/router/router lift combo would be for that? I'm going to be using it for raised panels, trim, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-03-2019, 10:46 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Cast iron top and Jessem Lifts

I use Pro Max cast iron table tops, actually side extensions for a table saw and Jessem Mast-R-Lift router lifts with the cam lock for the bit height.


https://www.amazon.com/JessEm-Mast-R...+router+lift+2

https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Too...tableextension

Ok, a bit expensive, but bullet proof. I use a Porter Cable 7518 3 1/4 HP router in them.

You can buy just the motor itself:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...3.25+HP+router


All totaled, about $930.00 for all 3 pieces, but no stand.

If you attach it to the table saw, you don't need a stand. I have one like that and 2 others in stands.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-03-2019 at 10:50 PM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 02:46 AM
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The Woodsmith Shop is a television show (and more). Season 11 aired in 2017, and it included a large, very interesting router table. It features a rotating top that lets you use it as a vertical or horizontal router table, and includes a mortising feature and more. It is big, heavy, and time consuming to build. Season 11 is still showing in re-runs, so the plans are still available online for free download. Sometime in the future, they will cost money to buy, once Season 11 is no longer "current."

Here are the plans. Get them now, while you still can:
http://media.woodsmith.com/videoedit...uter-table.pdf

Here is a preview of the episode that introduces the router table:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season11/1105/

Here is an important preview that shows how they clamped the top together with a lot of screws. I donít remember seeing it mentioned in the plans, only on TV:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season11/1107/

I would like to build one of those router tables someday.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info! It is much appreciated.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 04:34 PM
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Best router table

Be sure to check out the Incra https://incra.com/ website. They sell the master lift II with magnetic inserts instead of screw-in inserts. They also sell a router table fence that allows you do do joinery and precision routing that no other normal router table fence is capable of doing.

I also use the Porter Cable 3 1/4 hp motor in my lift.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 04:41 PM
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well here is a link to mine on this forum I posted. 2 layers of birch 3/4" plywood for table and 3/4" for fence with 3/4 poplar for the slides. And a Jessum 2 lift

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/d...-table-201154/

Marlin
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 05:26 PM
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Shaper?

I have made router tables before - plain and simple tables with grooves that my table saw miter slide will fit into and expanded onto them as time went on. Also made them where the router was mounted horizontally. My go to for normal 'shaping' was my shaper, not my router table. Especially with the versatility of the shaper accepting 1/4" and 1/2" router bits in addition to shaper bits , except for the HF model - it didn't accept shaper bits.

But if I were building one from scratch with the lifts and all, I personally would be better off with a shaper. A Harbor Freight shaper for around $250 or a much better shaper from Grizzly doe around $375. These shapers will also take 1/4" and 1/2 " router bits. A shaper is heavier and more stable. Changing blades is fast. As for adjustments and settings, the shaper is far more easier than a router. There is a long handle lever to raise and lower easier and more efficiently and a single knob to lock in the height.
My personal opinion is that a shaper is far superior to a router table.

I made just about anything I needed on the shaper except for dovetails and finger joints. Dovetail jigs can be had for under $200

Just something to think about.

Tony B



Retired woodworker, amongst other things, Sold full time cruising boat and now full time cruising in RV. Currently in Somerville, Tx
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-04-2019, 05:42 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Superior, no but different.

For production work and larger profiles, nothing can beat a shaper.
For home shops and profiling edges, even raising some panels, a router table is way more flexible. Because there is a nut on top of the shaper spindle, you are limited to edge profiles only. A router can do "stopped" cuts, finger joints, dados, rabbets, and all sorts of profiles.


I have 3 router tables and an old 1 HP 1/2" spindle Craftsman shaper which I never use. Using router bits in a spindle that only spins at 10,000 max, as in the shaper, is not going to give the best cuts. Smaller diamter bits need higher RPMs to be efficient, just like smaller twist drill can be run at higher RPMs than larger ones.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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