The Powermatic 68 is a scary powerful 5 Hp saw, much more than a home shop requires. That much power is for production ripping of 3" or thicker material all day long. A kickback from this saw would require a visit to the ER for certain. I'm not interested, thank you.
As far as that fence goes, it looks like a "T" square locking type to me. What I don't understand are the two small red knobs on either side of the locking handle. Why would you need fence alignment knobs immediately available when that process is a "set it and forget it" operation, performed rarely. If those knobs do not align the fence, what do they do? Why is the term "micro adjustment" used on the cover of the instruction manual? How does that work? Craftsman used to have an aluminum front rail with a rack and pinion drive in the fence head which you could "micro adjust" for ripping different widths. I had one and liked it ... 1960's vintage.
I don't know why they made two versions of the same saw, one with an open stand, 22114, and my saw with a full cabinet stand 22124? Unless the open stand version was more stable because of the splayed out legs..... I donno? As far as I recall, Steel City had similar saws back when, but they were both made in the same factory by a third party manufacturer and branded for Sears or Steel City.
Ripping on the table saw VS the band saw. There are safety issues when ripping on the table saw that I have come to dislike. This has to do with kickback in 2 variations. In some "reactive" woods the kerf made by the blade, will close at the rear, grab the blade and spin over the top, kicking it back towards the operator. The use of a riving knife or splitter will all but prevent this hazard in addition to the second type of kickback, which is the moving off the fence at the rear of the workpiece. The splitter retains the registration against the fence so it will not rotate away and spin up and over, kicking back at the operator.
The bandsaw, because the blade is only a narrow plane, unlike the wide plane of the table saw blade, has none of these issues, as a rule. Is is safer for ripping in my opinion AND will cut to greater depths or thicknesses more easily. Yes, you will need to face to surface on a jointer to get it smooth, but no big deal. A sharp blade and a proper set up will insure a smooth and a straight cut. A full depth rip on a 12" 5 HP table saw leaves a whole lot of spinning blade in the work, a potential for kickback. Not so, on the bandsaw.
Several of my kickback incidents have been with plywood. These occurred before I reinstalled the splitters, and none have occurred since. So, you don't need a lot of blade exposure to have a kickback, even with a 3 HP or less motor, which is the rating on my direct drive 12" Craftsman saws, running on 220 Volts only. I don't know why Sears stopped making those great saws since they were perfect for the home shop, with no belt and motor hanging off the back and allowing all the dust to escape the cabinet. They went to the "contractor" style with the belt drives and if you used them outside on the site, the dust issue didn't matter, but that wasn't the case. Finally, manufacturers started making blade shrouds with shop vac dust ports on the newer table saws. My Bosch 4000-09 job site saw even has one.
Dust is now a more widely known health hazard than 30 years ago, so consumers are more aware and manufactures must respond accordingly. Home shops in basements and garages are confined spaces, so dust collection is a must, and is probably one of the largest and most frequented forum topics we have here. Almost all of my experimentation in the woodshop has been with various methods of containing the dust from the table saws. Over the blade covers are very effective in this regard. The home shop dust collector does not move enough air volume at a high enough speed to evacuate even a contractor saw cabinet in my experience. Gravity causes the dust to settle out on all the corners until enough builds up and smooths out from the air flow. I'm still working on solutions for capturing the dust...
I got off on a bit of a tangent here, but it's all related to being safe in the shop.