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-   -   Bed hardware (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/bed-hardware-49359/)

Lanny0134 03-07-2013 11:16 AM

Bed hardware
I'm just about to start a big project and want to get some input from our pros. I'm starting with 6"x4 uprights and 8/4 rails somewhere between 5" and 9" wide. I'm going to use mortise and tenons to attach the rails to the uprights but want to hardware to keep it together. The bed bolts from lee valley are perfect but I don't want a bolt or bolt cover on the outside of the post. Any ideas?

Dave Paine 03-07-2013 12:16 PM

Sounds like the Lee Valley hardware is not perfect if you do not want to have this exposed or covered.

For other readers, this is the hardware. Very strong.


Lee Valley does not state the bolt diameter, but you could give them a call to confirm then look for a hanger bolt which matches.

Lee Valley have hanger bolts but too small diameter. Woodcraft go up to 3/8in but this may still be too small.


You could insert a wood plug over the bolt head. Cutting this from another section of the board should allow you to get a very close match to the grain.

WillemJM 03-07-2013 12:44 PM

Dave's suggestion to use a plug is a good one, however remember the reason for the bolts is knock down for moving, so the plugs will have to come out at some point and go back in.

I used the Lee Valley bed bolts once and they are great, but the last job I did, I just went to Lowes and purchased Barrel Nuts and bolts with washers, pretty much the same, barrels are just not brass. I used a leg carving to conceal the holes.

For less solid construction, there are many other hardware options on Lee Valley's site.

Steve Neul 03-07-2013 06:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I can't open the links so I don't know if I'm duplicating what Dave had. This is the bed hardware that woodworkers hardware sells. With the metal hardware it would be unnecessary to mortice and tenon.

EdS 03-21-2013 09:02 PM

I recently built a king size bed with headboard and footboard, all out of cherry. I needed to support a very heavy mattress and box spring. I used these knock down connectors and they worked great.


Cut a shallow 3/8" mortise to accept both brackets, but on the female bracket you also have to deepen the mortise to accept the male ends of the connecting bracket. I used a forstner bit and a chisle to make the mortise. I mounted them into 1 1/2" in rails and a 3" post without any problem. As long as your rails are cut square on the ends, you will get a perfectly flush fit between rail and post and they are easy to take down and move the bed when necessary.

In my case, I was concerned about the tall headboard moving back and forth when weight was placed on the bed. These brackets allow you the flexibility to cut the mortise just a little bit deeper than flush (say 1/32) which in effect, allows the rail ends themselves to provide additional support by making the 10" wide rails really tight and flush against the headboard, rather than simply relying on the bracket to provide the stability.
Here are a few pictures.

EdS 03-23-2013 10:28 AM

better picture
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a better picture of the rail hardware.

Lanny0134 03-23-2013 11:20 AM

Thanks. Do you think one could hold a 2" x 6" rail or would it need two on each end?

EdS 03-23-2013 01:09 PM

One bracket on each end of the rail will work just fine. My bed rail was 8" x 1.5" and the brackets worked great. They come with 1.5" long screws so I wouldnt worry about them handling the weight.

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