barrel hinges - concealed - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-24-2016, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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barrel hinges - concealed

thoughts on these?

I making some low side tables - 36" & 48" long for the home office. doors are planned on the 36"ers - one or two file drawers on the 48".

the doors will be flush with the stiles - 3/4 red oak. since I'm making it, I can make 'em thicker/thinner if needed. normally I would use face mounted flush hinges - or piano hinge.
I'm thinking about something perhaps a bit more dressy like the hidden barrel hinges.

any experiences / tips / tricks / OMG's on this style?
this stuff should last 2-3 generations; it's not intended as flakeboard kiddie temp stuff.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-24-2016, 04:08 PM
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I've never used them ...

But I like them and the concealed look is great. This video is very good:

There's a variation call Soss hinges also invisible but more structural:

The Soss hinges require a mortise, where the barrel hinges just need a drilled hole.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-24-2016, 06:18 PM
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When Soss hinges get real small, they are the barrel hinges. Used to be they were all made by Soss. For the little ones it helps to buy an 8mm bradpoint bit.

http://************/zexb58j
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-25-2016, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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they are not so expensive - methinks I'll get a couple and play around with them.

but I'm still leaning to the piano hinge side. I've got stuff I did 30 years ago that has no 'wear&tear' regards the hinges...
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-25-2016, 12:52 PM
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Issue with Soss hinges, barrel and otherwise, is no adjustment. Any misalignment in the two receiving holes and you're in for trouble. I would build a jig out of some hard wood with two holes next to each other perfectly lined up and at the correct spacing, clamp the door to the frame and the jig to both, and drill the holes in pairs. I would try it with scrap first to verify the jig is accurate. Then I'd keep the jig in the hardware bin with the hinges for next time.

Did you ever find those countersunk washers you were looking for? Because http://************/z9chgob
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-25-2016, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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the alignment issue does demand accuracy - I have some dowel pin locators, but not in metric (!)
definitely needs a jig.

I've ordered some and we'll see how it goes. in theory I could drill / mount / prove the stile+hinge+door assembly prior to gluing everything together - so if I screw up I can fetch me another board and execute a do-over....

countersunk washers . . . not found. that's exactly what I'm looking for - without the color & advert.... plain alu available, I should ask if the lettering is engraved. if not I can probably remove the (silk screen?) ink. thanks for the lead!
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-25-2016, 03:56 PM
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scroll down on this link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pcs-8-x-1...dOa60A&vxp=mtr







scroll down to the ad for this company. If this ain't it, I quit.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-25-2016, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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thanks w&t - those washers (look to be) stamped "hollow" shapes - except the invert cone- which appears to be just that, a cone.

the theory is to find a "solid flat washer" with a "tapered bore" for a flat/oval screw - the washer needs to be flat on the back and solid in order to spread the "bolting force" over a larger area than the screw / bolt head alone.

I've run into bunches of "common names" for the category - finishing washers, panel washers, etc.....
I've actually got a (left over) box of stainless ones ala the bottom picture - left over from some boat upholstery work.
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