bandsaw blades that don't dull too soon - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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bandsaw blades that don't dull too soon

I've been using timberwolf bandsaw blades for my Laguna 14bx bandsaw and up until recently have been pretty happy with them. Now that I'm ripping 3.75" thick white oak, they are not lasting very long. Any suggestions on alternative bandsaw blade brands/kinds that will last longer.
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post #2 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 06:30 PM
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If your blades are dulling too fast then they are probably hitting something they shouldn't, like the guide blocks. Just normal wood cutting they should last a long time.
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post #3 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 06:53 PM
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A few suggestions

I've been using Timberwolf blades for a long time and usually get long life off them. I tried to sharpen my 143" blade using a Dremel with a chain saw stone and it worked fairly well with the exception I can't reset the teeth. I test cut some Maple and it worked better than before by a long shot. You might want to sharpen your own that way?

A carbide tipped blade will last much longer, but costs much more, around $130 to $150.00, or so. Lennox makes one so you can check it out. Laguna also has a carbide tipped one:

http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/leno...aw-blades.aspx

http://www.rockler.com/laguna-tools-...Accessories%27

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-28-2017 at 06:56 PM.
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post #4 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 07:05 PM
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How many teeth per inch. Did you look at the back of the package to see which blade was recommended for thick hardwoods?


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post #5 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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After using a 1/2" wide blade that seemed to dull after cutting a few pieces, maybe 6-8 feet my guess (cuts/kurf waivered, sawdust bits were dark (burned) and some smoke occurred), I put a 3/4" wide 3 TPI 0.025" thick 115" blade that worked well at first in but cutting the 3.75" white oak it seemed to slow after the first foot or so of ripping - still trying this blade. No way the ceramic guides are hitting the teeth; no way I would allow that. Might try a carbide tipped blade. Thanks for the feedback!
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-28-2017, 09:41 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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That's not acceptable!

Either you've run into some bad blades OR something is dulling them in the cutting process. I get a few hundred feet of cuts with both my 1/2" and 3/4" Timberwolf blades in 6" to 8" hard Maple or Oak. I actually keep a chart of the lengths I've cut taped to the door of my resaw bandsaw to keep track, a relatively new idea for me just as a check.....

I get my Timberwolf blades from Grizzly which has a great return service if there are issues. I recall one other member who had issues with Timberwolf and would never use them again... maybe it was the CS at Suffolk, not the blades?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 11:42 AM
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If you have the owners manual, look for the recommended tpi for the type of material (wood) you are cutting, or contact the Laguna customer service for advice. Be safe.
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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the chart on the back of the 3/4" blade package (I described above) indicated the blade in the package is suitable for cutting this hard wood more than the thickness I am cutting. I like Timberwolf bandsaw blades, just not sure why the sharpness on these particular teeth seem to be dulling so quickly. Will keep on trying, and as a backup have ordered a 3/4" wide carbide toothed blade.
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 01:08 PM
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I looked on the chart that came with my Timberwolf blades (it's tacked to my wall as a reference) and it said for cutting hardwood that thick it requires a 2-3 tooth per inch blade - depending on width, AND a narrow kerf blade was important.


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post #10 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Terry - the blade I'm trying further now (after the 1/2" blade dulled) is 3/4" wide 3 TPI 0.025" thick 115" blade. It started out cutting really well, then after a foot or so seemed like it slowed. Going to try it further. As Woodnthings suggested, I'm going to double (triple) check again to be sure nothing is hitting the teeth to dull them (I did this check when I installed the 3/4" blade).
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post #11 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 02:30 PM
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Stop, look and listen ...

Stop the saw and spin the wheels by hand. Listen to hear any sounds that don't sound like a free running blade. Look at the tips of the teeth to see if they are the least bit shiny.

Like I said it may be just a bad blade. Call your source and tell them your story and see what they offer. All of a sudden normally good blades don't stop cutting for no reason. It could be a hardening or heat treating issue from Timberwolf.

Make a cardboard chart of the lengths you cut and the dates, for your own records should the issue come up.

A blade without proper tension won't cut well. Just thought about that....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-29-2017 at 02:38 PM.
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post #12 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Woodnthings - blade turns by hand fine - no unexpected noises (the very slight noise of the ceramic guides). I took a video (my wife did) of the last cut a few minutes ago; trying to figure out how to post it here.
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post #13 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I am sure I can't get the video to less than 200 kbs so will pass on posting the video. The video shows a resaw on 3.75" thick x 28" long white oak that went pretty well - straight requiring modest push with no kerf waiver, no brown bits (burned) and no smoke as happened with the older more used 1/2" blade. It went smoothly but with slightly more resistance than the same sized piece I cut yesterday with the 3/4" blade. I will have to follow how many pieces like this (I'm in the process of making 20 for table spindle legs I'm turning) the 3/4" blade can handle. Thank you all for your help and comments.
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post #14 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 06:14 PM
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As previously posted above by Steve, your guides could be your problem. Until solved, you'll just keep going through blades. If the guide is checked and ruled out, look at the tooth spacing. Closely spaced teeth cut slower, load up quicker and produce more heat. Skip tooth blades cut faster and tend to run cooler. I mention this because you said you are burning the wood.
Any new blade can heat-up if moved too slow in a cut. This applies to all blades and bits.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #15 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 06:24 PM
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Are the guides behind the gullet of the blade? I have bearings so I'm not sure if the setup is the same as ceramic guides. Just trying to help with suggestions.


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post #16 of 22 Old 04-29-2017, 07:11 PM
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In 1996 my Father in Law bought a LT18 Laguna Band Saw with 5 new Laguna band saw blades. Now I own it and it still has the original saw blade and it starting to cut crooked after many years of use? I think I will start out with a new blade but it sure dose cut nice and fast thru wood still! They sure are nice band saws to use. Still figuring out my Robland K260 5 Function Combo Table Saw made in in Belgium bought 20 years ago new. It also is like new but old and I would like to find all the belts that are used to drive things with to have for spares in case one does go bad. Just not sure if they make the belts anymore I sure hope so??? Had to go look at the paper work to get the dates right. The saw has a sliding table attachment and a bunch of other fence stuff to bolt on.

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post #17 of 22 Old 04-30-2017, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Terry - the guides are behind the gullets.
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post #18 of 22 Old 04-30-2017, 11:08 AM
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I think you're going to fall in love with that carbide blade. I got a couple as a gift a few years back (great wife). There's a little bit of a catch. In order to have enough "meat" to attach the carbide to, the blade back has to be thicker. That thickness is a bit much to go around a 14" wheel and my 1/2" blade began to develop cracks. The 3/4" blade I have looks good so far, but time will tell.
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post #19 of 22 Old 04-30-2017, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Quickstep. I ordered the 3/4" blade.
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post #20 of 22 Old 04-30-2017, 06:46 PM
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Just so you know ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by cassidy View Post
Thanks, Quickstep. I ordered the 3/4" blade.
What length blade?

The wider the blade the greater the tension required to keep it stiff enough to avoid wander and running true. An increase from 1/2" to 3/4" is 50% so your tension indicator may not read correctly. I donno about Laguna's tension indicators, but most are not accurate. Use the "one finger tap test for 1/8" movement recommended by Alex Snodgrass if you are not sure how much to tension it. Myself, I use the "ping or pluck" method where I listen for a bright clear sound, not a "thud" when I "twang" the blade. You may have to be part hillbilly or rocker to be able to do this ... I donno?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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