bandsaw blade question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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bandsaw blade question

I bought a riser for my griz bandsaw and it came with a blade.Probably a cheap one.I cut 6" x 1/4- 1/2" slices of Walmut,Maple and African Mahogany.I get a little smoke and I have to put some pressure on the board to get it to cut at a reasonable pace. A 17" cut takes me about 5 minutes.Does this seem reasonable?What size and type of blade would work better?The blade I have now is 3/8" 6 tpi.Im not sure what type.

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 05:46 PM
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Wrong blade, you want 2-3 TPI.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 06:00 PM
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In conjunction with TPI......Think of a BS blade in terms of "beam strength",WRT its width and thickness.On tall resaws,especially in some of the tougher species(exotics)the blade is fighting to keep straight........you don't get a balanced tooth or chip load.....then a harmonic or "out of tune" condition sets in.You can "cheat" and use air to help flush out the cut.......it also acts as a cooler,getting more life out of blade.BW

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post #4 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 06:43 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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piling on...

Beam strength and TPI are critical. Itchy imagine pushing on a rope, doesn't work very well...right. Well, when you saw, the work is interrupting the rotation of the blade. ..especially if the saw dust accumulates because the small teeth can't clear it out fast enough.
As the lower wheel tries to pull the blade through the work, the tension changes on the rest of the blade. That's where you need beam strength,(resistance to bending) and additional tension to keep the blade running true. Proper tension is really more important than the blade guides supporting the side of the blade. The video at the bottom of the page shows that process: http://falbergsawz.com/

When the blade starts to wander and you have to compensate by allowing for drift, the set of the teeth on one side is worn more than the other. You should be able to set a fence to a properly trued and adjusted bandsaw and make parallel cuts with no drifting issues.

When you do get your new blade take a diamond stone or sharpening stone and round off the back of the blade and reduce the sharp edges. This will allow you to turn the work easier when making curves.

I have a "few" bandsaws and leave one set for resawing with a 3/4" 3 TPI blade. Others have 1/2" or 3/8" blades for curves. A sharp blade with 3-6 TPI depending on the width and thickness of your material will work well for you. I'm not a bandsaw expert by any means, although I do weld my own blades from bulk stock off the rolls in 100 ft lengths. I have a couple metal cutting bandsaws also. Metal cutting blades I use have 18 TPI, much less than wood cutting blades. Thinner metals require more TPI so the blade won't hang up on the space in between the teeth. Even today I cut a 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle iron to length.
Slow but sure, it just kept cutting...lots of hours on that blade too.

I believe with your new riser the tension indicated on the spring washer will not be adequate for the longer blade. There is a "flutter" technique for setting the tension. Where you back off the tension will watching the blade until it starts to flutter, then tighten it back up about 1 turn. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 07:05 PM
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Itchy, I had a similar problem with my bandsaw and it turned out to be a stretched out drive belt. Tightened up the motoer a bit and evertything worked great again.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and ordered a Timberwolf As-s 3/4" 3 TPI blade.$30 from grizzly.I rechecked the one that came with the riser,it has 7-8 tpi and is 3/8".No wonder it was a smokin!It tended to wander being only 3/8".Thanks for the help,Gary

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 08:48 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Here's a bunch of threads on bandsaw blades

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/searc...earchid=609433 bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-01-2011, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
Wrong blade, you want 2-3 TPI.
+1.








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