Does anyone have recommendations about attaching a 2" vertical piece to a 3" vertical leg.
So the long lengths are attached, roughly 48"' L pole to a 36" L - 2" thick piece.
I have done this before with glue and pocket holes and it was fine since it was a small bedside stand.
But now i am trying to make a dresser, its pine but i would like to join it a different way.
I thought maybe i would try dowels?
Or could i route out male tennon along the connecting piece and a female pocket in the leg to fit them.
the words 48 inch, 36 inch, pole and dresser used together is very confusing.
if you have done this before, a photo of that project would help.
and ~ why are there two different thicknesses of wood "pole" being joined together.
much more info needed, please. and photos, sketches or drawings will help too.
Does anyone have recommendations about attaching a 2" vertical piece to a 3" vertical leg.
So the long lengths are attached, roughly 48"' L pole to a 36" L - 2" thick piece.
I have done this before with glue and pocket holes and it was fine since it was a small bedside stand.
But now i am trying to make a dresser, its pine but i would like to join it a different way.
I thought maybe i would try dowels?
Or could i route out male tennon along the connecting piece and a female pocket in the leg to fit them.
I join 4x4" stock to a 3x2" stock of another kind to a 2x2" stock
of yet another kind of wood to turn on a lathe for mallets.
I use whatever size and quantity of dowel that is appropriate for the project.
two-part liquid construction grade epoxy is my adhesive of choice.
of course this method will work for any number of projects that is to be turned on a lathe.
There is no problem with gluing long grain to long grain and holding them together with some screws. You just need to have both flat surfaces mate together and a few clamps won't hurt to keep them tight will you put the screws in. Drill a pilot hole through the first one slightly smaller than the solid portion of the screw. DO NOT use drywall screws as they are brittle and will snap off if subject to sideways forces OR if your drill driver exceeds the torque limit it will snap the heads right off.
Torx head screws for decks will be best and the heads won't strip out like Phillips head screws..... BTDT. :sad2:
This photo attached for example.
So it would be like the side of this stand attaching to one of the legs. See how the pieces not the same width because of the trim piece outlining it.
Again, I don't understand what you are wanting to do. If you want to attach the two different width pieces at RIGHT ANGLES like in the photo then that's where you need a mortise and tenon joint.
If the pieces are attached side by side or parallel to one another, follow my advice in the previous post.
:vs_cool:
Those panels need to move across their width, so if you rigidly attach them with pocket screws they may split. Typically the panels are set into a dado, but not glued in. They "float" and move independently of the main frame. I'm not saying what you did will fail necessarily, but it could happen. :|
Ok, a dado, i know what that is.
Maybe ill try that this time.
But a question, isn't a dado a shallow mortise and tennon?
Its a male side and a female side/pocket, right?
Or is there another definition of a mortise and tennon.
Yes, a dado is a groove rather than a pocket and yes a dado will accept a "tenon" but here's the difference. A mortise has 4 sides a dado has only two. The sides on a mortise can only be chiseled out, a dado is continuous. The principle is about the same as the both restrict the movement of the inserted piece.
for mortise & tenon typically the tenon is not as thick, and not as wide, as the workpiece. i.e. is is cut on all four sides, to fit the mortise pocket.
the dado is one long groove cut to width for the joined pc.
a dado does not have to continuous from one end to the other - to make those I use a router, and clean up the ends with a chisel.
in cases, you can round the ends of the joined piece - that depends on how "hidden" the corrners are...
here's a simple table I made for our daughter - it's a 'custom' size to fit a specific area; standard tables didn't fit....
the upright legs - a dado in the front / rear, the side legs fit into the dado.
the "skirt" between the uprights is a blind half-lap joint. it was a bit thin on the back side, so I glued in a small "doubler" for reinforcement.
the whole thing is glued - not a single nail or screw anywhere.
TomCT2 nice table! This is what i run into more often as well that items do not fit where i want them, so i need to make them.
Woodnthings: thanks for all the information once again, very, very helpful.
Johnsmith_infl: making a mallet would be a cool project
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