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post #1 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Assembly Table Build

My Son made this assembly table (based loosely on the Ron Paulk design) with an add on swing up side to load large sheets of plywood. The upper section was made using 3/4" birch plywood. The basic bench size is 30"x 60" and has a swing up loading leaf that adds about 29".

He now wants to make dog holes into the top at 4" spacing in both directions using a 3/4" spiral router bit in a plunge router. The dog holes will perforate the complete top (similar to the Festool type top). I would like to know if any members here have made a jig to make repeatable holes to accomplish this, and how you did it. We don't have access to any machine shops to make any drilling jig and would like to make a jig from plywood to accomplish this. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
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Gary

Woodworking is like wetting myself....Only I know that warm feeling!

Last edited by gmercer_48083; 09-28-2020 at 10:03 AM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 10:23 AM
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Gary - I am going to modify my Harbor Freight bench dog holes.
it comes with metric holes, just shy of 3/4" and as you can tell,
any standard 3/4" peg just won't work. I was going to go with
a 3/4" expansion then I noticed there are no 3/4" rubber stoppers
to be found in my area.
so - I am going to with 7/8" which fits my needs.
I will drill a 7/8" hole in a 1x4 board and use a top bearing router bit
to enlarge the hole - one by one, as there are only a few to do.
for your table, "you could" do the same with a piece of plywood on
the drill press to make the template - then just a couple of screws
(or clamps) will hold it in place while you plunge cut the holes.
if you are going with 3/4" holes, I would use a 1/2" top bearing bit.
don't know what size or type of dogs you will be using.
but, I think I will use 7/8" for my dog holes as I like the rubber stoppers.
and I can use the T-Tracks for any hold-downs I need.

Assembly Table Build-stuff-018.jpg

excellent job on your son's table, BTW !!! I like it !!

.

there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 09-28-2020 at 10:26 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 11:03 AM
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I am going to do this on my next assembly table and what I've learned it it is definitely better do this with a plunge router.

Other than the expensive Parf system there are some jigs such as DominoFix & WoodRave. There are also DIY jigs using pegboard and pins as the template.

If you're using a router, you'll need to look at boring bits and decide whether you're going 3/4 or 20mm.

The reason I'm going with 20mm is there are MFT type dogs and fixtures available that I want to use.

Here is what I am looking at. Bit and collet.

Hope this helps.

Robert
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobert View Post
I am going to do this on my next assembly table and what I've learned it it is definitely better do this with a plunge router.

Other than the expensive Parf system there are some jigs such as DominoFix & WoodRave. There are also DIY jigs using pegboard and pins as the template.

If you're using a router, you'll need to look at boring bits and decide whether you're going 3/4 or 20mm.

The reason I'm going with 20mm is there are MFT type dogs and fixtures available that I want to use.

Here is what I am looking at. Bit and collet.

Hope this helps.
I looked at Amana catalog and it says about the bit you listed, not for use in a handheld router

Gary

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post #5 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I looked at Amana catalog and it says about the bit you listed, not for use in a handheld router
Use a 1/2" spiral up-cut bit with the correct guide bushings for whatever size hole you decide to use. I ended up purchasing Woodpecker's Hole Boring Jig. This system is for 20mm holes which is what I opted to go with based on the dogs and accessories that I wanted to use. I have 20mm accessories from a few different companies but I really like the Quad Dogs system from BenchDogs in the UK. Even though they are located in England their shipping is reasonable and quick, their products are well priced given what they do and their customer service is excellent!

One important thing I learned while using this jig was to make multiple passes on each hole, cleaning out the hole, the template, the bushing sides and the router base between each pass. If you leave any sawdust whatsoever on the template or bushing the holes will be ever so slightly off. Using a template that relies on locking into those holes will eventually start to wander if you don't get every bit of sawdust off of the template and bushing. The first piece of plywood that I started drilling these 20mm holes into was just under 3ft high by just under 5 ft wide. I started off in the lower left of the piece and things seemed good but as I got closer to the upper right of the piece I had alignment issues. The second time I cut holes I was meticulous about cleaning the hole, template, busing sides and router base and it went perfectly.

Good luck!
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 01:24 PM
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I always search You Tube first .....

When I haven't done the operation personally, I look at You Tube for an approach that meets my requirement for accuracy and tools on hand. Here's a bunch on drilling bench dog hole using a DIY jig.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...h+dog+hole+jig

For instance:


https://www.cncdesign.co.uk/pro-jig-...ft3lp-top.html

One of those videos links a CNC jig from the UK, above. I would have thought that someone in the USA would have done the same by now, but not so at least on Ebay. Maybe a member here would be interested in making a few jigs....?



Rather than make a tedious layout like above, this method uses the previous hole to locate the successive one. However, it will not give you a grid type pattern, only a single row:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-28-2020 at 01:53 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-28-2020, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
I looked at Amana catalog and it says about the bit you listed, not for use in a handheld router
I didn't know that.

I do know they are made for hinge boring machines, I'm going to try it in a router anyway.

I've used collet adapters like that on odd sized milling bits in a router and had no problems.

The 20mm Festool bit is $70, so I guess I'm not saving that much money.

Thanks for the notice.

Robert
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-29-2020, 12:24 AM
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ive seen this on lee valleys website.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...-hole-bushings

seems like it might help increase the accuracy in the hole layout, be able to move the jig.

also another little do hicky you could get to bring a drill press like job to the table is

https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-13...1353372&sr=8-1

hopefully this at least gives you some more ideas how to tackle the job maybe other than a router.

very awesome table. btw!

Nick J
Edmonton, AB, Canada
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-29-2020, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick2727 View Post
ive seen this on lee valleys website.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...-hole-bushings

seems like it might help increase the accuracy in the hole layout, be able to move the jig.

also another little do hicky you could get to bring a drill press like job to the table is

https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-13...1353372&sr=8-1

hopefully this at least gives you some more ideas how to tackle the job maybe other than a router.

very awesome table. btw!
Thanks Nick, will consider.

Gary

Woodworking is like wetting myself....Only I know that warm feeling!
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