Am I asking for trouble? Router Technique - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-30-2014, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Am I asking for trouble? Router Technique

So I've edge banded a table and the banding ending up being a little higher than the table top. My plan is to use a flush trim bit and run the router base along the edging, w/ the bearing riding on the table top. Essentially I'd be free hand routing with the router perpendicular from the normal way you use one. Is this a dumb idea? The banding is three inches wide if you were wondering.
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-30-2014, 11:21 PM
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My thought..

Considering how much a router can mess you up if something goes wrong...

I would put the table in a bench vice so it's held vertical. Then I would clamp a block (2x4 should be enough) to the bottom of the table you need to route off of. The block will give you a surface for the router base to ride on making it a safer procedure.
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post #3 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarus216 View Post
Considering how much a router can mess you up if something goes wrong...

I would put the table in a bench vice so it's held vertical. Then I would clamp a block (2x4 should be enough) to the bottom of the table you need to route off of. The block will give you a surface for the router base to ride on making it a safer procedure.
+1. Even if you use a small trim router with a straight bit, its difficult to hold it on the horizontal and make a precise cut. You really need to put the table top on edge and add some temp support for the router like clamping a 2x4 to one side and routing the opposite side.

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post #4 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 12:45 AM
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Get one of these.

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This is the one Woodenthings and I came up with a few weeks ago.

Al

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post #5 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
Get one of these. This is the one Woodenthings and I came up with a few weeks ago. Al Nails only hold themselves.
I'll tell ya what! No matter how many little contraptions and jigs I make up myself I still see stuff like that and shake my head. Something like that would NEVER occur to me to make but it's pure genius. Makes me lament all the time wasted doing those cuts without something like that.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Get one of these.

Attachment 92153

This is the one Woodenthings and I came up with a few weeks ago.

Al

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Al,

Do you have detailed plans for that posted anywhere? I'm guessing I'd adjust the bit to be flush with the long support arm (ie flush w/ the table top). What type of bit do you use for this operation? Thanks for the help
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 09:06 AM
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This is where I would reach for one of my hand planes. A lot of control and perhaps a better finish than the router bit. I used a hand plane on a top with solid edges to get everything flush.
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 09:15 AM
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Assuming you are talking about veneer tape, I like to use a trimmer like this to trim it. http://www.rockler.com/double-edge-trimmer
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walleye vision View Post
So I've edge banded a table and the banding ending up being a little higher than the table top. My plan is to use a flush trim bit and run the router base along the edging, w/ the bearing riding on the table top. Essentially I'd be free hand routing with the router perpendicular from the normal way you use one. Is this a dumb idea? The banding is three inches wide if you were wondering.
What wood is it, and how thick is it?





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post #10 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 09:26 AM
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I'm with Dave on this one - a power tool can do a lot of damage on an almost finished piece. Hand plane or scraper would be my choice.

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using 1/2inch maple as the edge banding. I don't have a decent hand plane but I will try my scraper first.
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post #12 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by walleye vision View Post
I'm using 1/2inch maple as the edge banding. I don't have a decent hand plane but I will try my scraper first.
With the banding that wide, and that thick, I would use a flush trim bit with bearing and let the router base ride on the banding. You could prop/clamp so the edge is up so the router is vertical, if that's more convenient.

I would not use a straight bit and run it from the top down. The ends of those bits don't cut that cleanly, and you'll likely get some tearout. You'll get the cleanest cut from the edges of flutes that are designed for trimming.





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post #13 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine
This is where I would reach for one of my hand planes. A lot of control and perhaps a better finish than the router bit. I used a hand plane on a top with solid edges to get everything flush.
Me too Dave but not for 35 4X8 sheets cut I to closet shelves and dividers. I've cut over 140 dado slots too. I glue up 5 to 25 pieces and then route both sides, one pass each. From there I can sand with 220 and send it to the finish side of my shop. The router bit is only cutting a micro amount and by the way it is cutting the wood it makes a really smooth cut.

Al

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walleye vision

Al,

Do you have detailed plans for that posted anywhere? I'm guessing I'd adjust the bit to be flush with the long support arm (ie flush w/ the table top). What type of bit do you use for this operation? Thanks for the help


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No plans are needed. But some of the better ideas are...

1)Attached with two screws instead of making it like a base.
2) Recessed where the proud edge material is so it will start at the correct elevation.
3) Can be used without an edge guide but if the material is no thicker than the router bit you get it all in one pass with the guide.
4) Made it out of Corian. Very easy to work with this material.
5) Used a PC 690 so micro adjustments are possible.
6) Bit is as wide as my material and has a flat cutter in the bottom. It's a micro cut so it will run a lot of feet before its dull.

Al

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post #15 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL
I'm with Dave on this one - a power tool can do a lot of damage on an almost finished piece. Hand plane or scraper would be my choice.
I'm not sure how many feet the OP is running but I'm running hundreds and I made the router fixture and will never look back. It's made in such a way that it can't do any damage to the wood.

I use a scraper too if it's a short run or one piece.

Al

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post #16 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

With the banding that wide, and that thick, I would use a flush trim bit with bearing and let the router base ride on the banding. You could prop/clamp so the edge is up so the router is vertical, if that's more convenient.

I would not use a straight bit and run it from the top down. The ends of those bits don't cut that cleanly, and you'll likely get some tearout. You'll get the cleanest cut from the edges of flutes that are designed for trimming.





.
You have to use a bit with a flat flute on the bottom and you have to see it to believe it but it's smooth as silk. Also the setup you described wont work on panels with dados cut in them. My fixture rides right over them.

Al

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Haven't had any tear out in hundreds of feet routed in walnut. Zips right over the dado.



Last edited by Al B Thayer; 03-31-2014 at 07:43 PM.
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
You have to use a bit with a flat flute on the bottom and you have to see it to believe it but it's smooth as silk. Also the setup you described wont work on panels with dados cut in them. My fixture rides right over them.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.

Attachment 92225

Haven't had any tear out in hundreds of feet routed in walnut. Zips right over the dado.
I have done it your way, and prefer using a trim bit with a bearing. The OP didn't mention dadoes. If a bit with a bearing has to be used, dropping in a filler piece in the dado lets the bearing ride very nicely over it. What I don't like about your jig is the knob to hold the jig down is a bit far from the router.





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post #18 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

I have done it your way, and prefer using a trim bit with a bearing. The OP didn't mention dadoes. If a bit with a bearing has to be used, dropping in a filler piece in the dado lets the bearing ride very nicely over it. What I don't like about your jig is the knob to hold the jig down is a bit far from the router.





.
Guess you'll never know until you try it. I started with the method your talking about. It's really was very hard to keep the router vertical when running 8' balancing on 3/4".

Your never going to fill in the dado without spending too much time on it and the cut will never be as smooth leaving more work.

I'm wondering why you can't just say, just once. "Looks like a good idea" or "sure I see your point"

Al B Thayer

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post #19 of 19 Old 03-31-2014, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

I have done it your way, and prefer using a trim bit with a bearing. The OP didn't mention dadoes. If a bit with a bearing has to be used, dropping in a filler piece in the dado lets the bearing ride very nicely over it. What I don't like about your jig is the knob to hold the jig down is a bit far from the router.





.
The knob is in that position because someone else had the idea first. It also makes it much easier to place the router on the wood and not have it tip off. It's a great cut and if you used it one time on one board on one cut you wouldn't use the vertical method again. Period.

Al B Thayer

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