Advice on cutting out a long notch for a drawer slide. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Advice on cutting out a long notch for a drawer slide.

Note: I have no knowledge of woodworking.

I was thinking of using a router (which I do not have) to notch out sections to fit 10 drawer slides. I do have a Black & Decker rotary tool with a router type accessory with a drill type bit, but think an actual router tool would be better, plus would take too long to notch out ten 18" sections with the rotary tool.

I have this..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302YS...d-777fa7fb2507

Would this be easier and faster? I would just need a 1 3/8" bit for the height of the slide, I can adjust the router for the depth?
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...ds=router+tool

I have an already built MDF / particle board dresser and will be installing full extension drawer slides. Drawer slides need 1/2" clearance on each side. I only have about 1/8" clearance on each side. I will need to cut out 10 notches on the dresser sides to place the slides into. So the notch would have to be 18" long x 1 3/8" high x 1/2" wide.

I don't think notching out on the drawer would work as the drawer thickness is about 1/2" and no room inside for shims, plus the drawer front extends past the sides so no room for a router at the front, as the drawer front would be in the way.

So far this is what I have come up with (tell me where I'm wrong)

Remove the drawers
Mark a straight line above each current drawer slide on the wall sides of the dresser
Remove the old slides from the dresser wall sides
Place the bottom of the new drawer slides against the line from the old slides and mark a straight line across the top and both ends
Take two strips of wood and temporarily screw them above and below each line I made, where I place the strips will depend on the router housing dimensions
Use a 1 3/8" bit and set it to 3/8" depth on the router
Cut a notch the length of 18"
Repeat 9 more times
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 07:24 PM
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You have built yourself into a corner

Based on what I think you want to do, I wouldn't do it that way. I would recess the slides into the draws instead OR just remake one side of all the drawers. You can glue a backer panel inside the drawer so when you rout the "dado" or recess for the slides you aren't going to weaken the drawer. Depending of the drawer's front this may not work so well. If the front is a separate panel and removable, you can make larger ones to cover the slides.

Another choice is to use under mount slides if that will work. So you have 3 choices, redo the drawers, rout in the slides on the drawers OR go to under mount slides.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-25-2018 at 08:14 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 07:56 PM
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It could be done, but I certainly would not recommend it. You would have to be very accurate in your work. And you are going to significantly weaken the carcass of the dresser. I would not want a dresser made of MDF or Particle Board weakened in that manner.



If the drawer front is not glued on I would go with Woods suggestion to rebuild one side of the drawer. If the drawer front is glued on I would then rebuild the 5 drawers. There really would not be a great difference in the amount of work required.


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post #4 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 09:17 PM
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I agree as well. Cutting a straight line with a router is not always as easy as it sounds. Even with the knowledge and the tos, I would still rebuild the drawers.

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post #5 of 11 Old 08-25-2018, 10:15 PM
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Has your dresser drawers failed?
Why do you need to do this?
It will require disassembly of the present drawers, acut down of one full inch and reassembly.
Your new full extension drawer slides most likely cost about half as much as the whole MDF dresser.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-26-2018, 12:08 AM
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I think woodenthings suggestion about the undermount slides is the most reasonable.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-26-2018, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies.

I'm not good as calculating measurements but this is what I have. One side of the drawer has a 1/4" space the other side has 1/8" space. Each side of the drawer has a notch for the old rail that is 1/4" deep. So that would be a total of 7/8" space? And about 3/8" room inside the drawer.

The face of each drawer had 4 dowels that I glued and the drawer bottom was glued in the slot along the entire drawer.

This is being used for bluray storage. I looked for dressers that could fit them and this was the only one that worked with inside drawer measurements and the amount of blurays I needed to hold. I seen new and used dressers but they were either too deep of drawers or not enough drawers.

I was looking at the underside slides but the dividers below each drawer and distance from the underside of the drawer would not work. Also there would need to be a vertical brace for the back of the dresser.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-26-2018, 07:24 AM
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So what are you saying above?

Are you saying that none of the suggestions we made will work?
1. Can't change the interior drawer dimensions by adding a reinforcing block
2. Can't use undermount slides.

So, what now?
I would still be looking at making a recess in the drawers because you can not easily do that inside the carcass.
I would find the thinnest slides you can and make them work. If this drawer will not hold much weight you can make your own slides from UHW plastic strips or a hardwood like Maple and was them.

Another way is to make runners for the bottom edge of the drawer to slide on. You could use 1/8" aluminum angle say 3/4" or 1" on each side. This would only take up a total of 1/4" space on the sides of the drawers, but still support them, just not at full extension. I don't know if you can get all your requirements without have to make a major change to the carcass.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-03-2018, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Are you saying that none of the suggestions we made will work?
1. Can't change the interior drawer dimensions by adding a reinforcing block
2. Can't use undermount slides.

So, what now?
I would still be looking at making a recess in the drawers because you can not easily do that inside the carcass.
I would find the thinnest slides you can and make them work. If this drawer will not hold much weight you can make your own slides from UHW plastic strips or a hardwood like Maple and was them.

Another way is to make runners for the bottom edge of the drawer to slide on. You could use 1/8" aluminum angle say 3/4" or 1" on each side. This would only take up a total of 1/4" space on the sides of the drawers, but still support them, just not at full extension. I don't know if you can get all your requirements without have to make a major change to the carcass.

Those undermounts might work. I would have to cut notches out on the front brace, and reinforce the front brace with some L brackets, then attach some strips of wood to the back side (it only has a thin cardboard like backing now). But looking at the price of underside full extensions it is not in the budget. Cheapest I see is $60 for one pair. I paid $28 for all 5 pairs.

However I took out the drawer and placed the new slides on top of the old slides and they are the same width. So I would only have to notch out about an inch in height in the current grooves on each side of the drawers. I could also glue and screw 1/8 boards on the inside of each side for extra support.

The only issue I see is that the drawer front if glued to drawer sides and bottom, so I do not see a way to use a router to notch out the front part of the groove. Would a router be the only tool to use for this?
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-03-2018, 01:24 AM
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I don't get what you mean ....

Quote:
However I took out the drawer and placed the new slides on top of the old slides and they are the same width. So I would only have to notch out about an inch in height in the current grooves on each side of the drawers. I could also glue and screw 1/8 boards on the inside of each side for extra support.

If they are the same width, why do you need to notch an additional 1" in height. If they are the same thickness, that's one thing. If they are the same width, that's another thing. Which is it?

As far as making a dado/groove/notch .... the router is the easiest and fastest machine tool. Hand tools will take forever, unless you can get a router plane. If the drawers are being notched and the fronts are removable, great! If you have to dado/groove/ notch on the inside of the cabinet, that would be a big issue. Which is it?


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 11 Old 09-03-2018, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Quote:
However I took out the drawer and placed the new slides on top of the old slides and they are the same width. So I would only have to notch out about an inch in height in the current grooves on each side of the drawers. I could also glue and screw 1/8 boards on the inside of each side for extra support.

If they are the same width, why do you need to notch an additional 1" in height. If they are the same thickness, that's one thing. If they are the same width, that's another thing. Which is it?

As far as making a dado/groove/notch .... the router is the easiest and fastest machine tool. Hand tools will take forever, unless you can get a router plane. If the drawers are being notched and the fronts are removable, great! If you have to dado/groove/ notch on the inside of the cabinet, that would be a big issue. Which is it?


The old slide is 5/8 high the new one is about 1 3/8 high, so that would be about 1 1/4 extra height? The notch in the drawers is only 5/8 high. The new and old slide are actually the same width, so no need to cut further into the notch already in the drawer. I go by looking at the slide as if it is mounted to the side of the dresser; front to back is length, top to bottom is height and left to right is width.

The groove on the second picture. The front of the drawers extends past the drawer frame. If I started in the groove at the back of the drawer with a router and worked my way to the front, the drawer front would be in the way. So I think a router will not be able to be used all the way up the groove as the drawer front would block the router. Unless I had a strip of wood as a guide that is the same height that the drawer front protrudes, then glide the router on top of the guide/strip of wood? The drawer front protrudes about 3/4"
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