Acacia dining room table finish? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-28-2016, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Acacia dining room table finish?

Hello everyone.

I have a solid acacia (white acacia / black locust) dining room table that I am needing help with its finish. Our goal is to best bring out the vibrant dark and light contrast that can be seen with this wood. Can someone weigh in as how best to achieve this please?

Thanking all of you in advance,

Michael
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-28-2016, 07:13 AM
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What you need to worry about more than anything is the finish yellowing over time. Oil based finishes tend to yellow giving a yellow cast to the wood. A water based finish would remain clear however tend to look very bland. What you could do to make the grain pop is coat the wood with boiled linseed oil and let it dry a week to 10 days and use a water based finish. The linseed oil would make the grain pop but is incompatible with water based finishes so the linseed oil needs to dry completely. You could also use a butyrate or pre-catalyzed lacquer if you have the means of spraying. Lacquers could be used without the linseed oil.
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-29-2016, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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this is so valuable thank you. Do you believe only one coat of linseed oil would suffice?

thank you so much

michael
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-29-2016, 06:45 PM
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Which finish you chose is important BUT it's MORE important that you seal both top and bottom with minimum of 2 coats. This helps avoid the bowing and cupping as MC changes when one side is finished only. There is a thread re a top that was only finished on one side (top) and it's cupped now...there was a quick increase of humidity/MC and the unfinished side absorbed more/quicker than finished topside and caused it to cup....IF MC had dropped considerably it would have bowed center higher than sides due to it drawing/drying quicker.

Please post pics of finished top....I just put a large black locust on the burnpile due to sparks flying trying to cut with chainsaw...this tree has been dead MANY years, I didn't want to ruin that many bandsaw blades.....and I turn down very little wood to saw. Love to see the grain once finished!!!

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Hi there thanks for your patience. I wanted to wait to show a picture until the chairs i ordered were in. Here is the final product. As u can see it came out quite nice, i am very pleased with the stain. In the end, I used only linseed oil and let it sit for a week before putting several coats of polyurethane - glossy first and matt to finish. Thanks everyone for your comments, and help.
Best
Michael
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 11:06 AM
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Am I seeing correctly? Did you split the planks and laminate them? Will that prevent the warping Steve spoke of? The ends look really cool !!! Was it done for the aesthetics or warp prevention?

I probably would've used a stain to bring the grain out more ... but I like your finished top.

Well done!
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Am I seeing correctly? Did you split the planks and laminate them? Will that prevent the warping Steve spoke of? The ends look really cool !!! Was it done for the aesthetics or warp prevention?

I probably would've used a stain to bring the grain out more ... but I like your finished top.

Well done!

This is a end return bookmatch (I think correct term)...You saw the board off, roll that under and reglue as a edge and if large enough helps stability... This is better than gluing a board cross-grained....has beautiful accent for thinner boards.

According to his post he did use stain.

Michael....that looks awesome....How about some details on build and on your stain and finish application. I like the low luster.

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post #8 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 06:18 PM
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Acacia dining room table finish?

"End return bookmatch". I like that! Would one glue up the top, saw the end off as a unit, then glue back as one piece? How would it be handled so that the sides didn't look awkward? Can't tell from the photos.


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post #9 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 07:08 PM
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"End return bookmatch". I like that! Would one glue up the top, saw the end off as a unit, then glue back as one piece? How would it be handled so that the sides didn't look awkward? Can't tell from the photos.


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Yep, glue up first as a whole with extra length and width. Just a way to make look thicker than is.

I've seen/heard that it's done the same but its lengthwise. The corners can be sliced off at 45*at meeting point once size determined then rip the lengths and then the ends and the parts should flip under with the new 45* ends should mate back together also at near or exact size....IF a live edge is already on the side use a board that closely matches color/grain and glue under then once dry closely scroll/band saw along live edge match and sand to match. This will require 45* ing this so the underskirting end match will look more real/authentic. The main thing is not to glue anything crossgrain...it just won't work IF the moisture changes...IF the moisture never changed crossgrain gluing wouldn't ever be a problem....think about it, that would mean NO MOVEMENTS....a woodworkers DREAM!!!

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-23-2016, 09:52 PM
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Cool. I can see trying that in my future.


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