AC for a garage shop - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 32 Old 06-26-2012, 09:24 PM
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I....am so screwed.
First, I rent my house.
Second, the 20x30 mueller metal building is shared with my neighbor.
There is a 14' stud wall down the middle with osb on both sides.
My shop, gets hit with sun the entire day, from sunrise to sunset.
Big door on north end, man door on west wall next to big door, wind flow is north/south, south/north.
While I've been here five years, its only now the landlord said I can insulate if I want, gotta take it with or leave it when I move.
Stretched tarps 9' from ground all the way down the shop, it did help a little, still gets 120+ though.

So until recently I do no work during the day, when wife gets ho e on Friday night from work, I work all through the night, into Saturday , take a break, do it again Saturday night, and I go outside at night and hose building down.

I am getting a window unit, batting for west wall, and going to put the pink ridgid foam 4x8 sheets as a ceiling, I can't do this anymore, especially since I have a cabinet job coming and will need to work during g the week.

Having it at 80......man I'd be happy.

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post #22 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 12:45 AM
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Cool

Tec,
I also use my garage for a woodshop, but I use the whole thing. I just started woodworking about 3 years ago or so, and I would love to put and AC in my shop, Dang sure need it living in the Midwest, I love warm weather but hate the Humity. I get good enough I may just do that, or move to the House.
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post #23 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 02:56 PM
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My problem is the home owners assoc. will frown on an AC unit sticking out of the wall. At least I think they will. It would be more cost effective if I went that route just not sure about the hassle.
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post #24 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 03:25 PM
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MT Stringer,

A complete and utter lack of windows, as well as my HOA are the reasons behind my choosing a portable unit and ducting it using oversized dryer ducts. Mine dumps directly outside, sadly it is on the south facing wall, so the air it picks up is good and hot too.

Taylormade's solution most likely works just about as well, or close. He has made some changes to my idea by...

#1. Venting through the soffit. The advantage is that his vents are completely hidden from the HOA, the disadvantage is that the vent hoses have to be longer which offers more resistance to air flow, and thus cooling, and the exchange air goes through the attic which at least around me is nasty hot...
#2. Taylormade has upsized his duct from 4 or 5" whatever his unit shipped with, to 6", which allows the ducts to flow a LOT freer than my 5" will...
#3. His simple aluminum ducts are completely uninsulated. I have overwrapped my 5" ducts using 6" insulated ducting. This keeps the HOT exchange air from heating the cooled air space better. I suggested he try this one. Hoping I get a thank you note from him soon. (I tried the wrap thing as I could feel the heat off of my hot exchange hose, it REALLY helped...).
#4. His A/C rig is mounted high up on the wall, on a stand. This is a good idea that I hadn't thought of. High up like that, well hot air rises, cold air falls.
#5. Not sure if he has to do what I do. But I MUST keep the air moving / mixing. The blower in mine just doesn't have enough oomph to move the air around the whole shop. A box fan and the ceiling air filter fan keep the air moving nicely, and help the AC process all the air quickly.

You WILL need to insulate and seal your garage door. Home Depot sells the seal kits, but a word of warning. Those seal kits MUST be painted after installation. Open to UV they don't last long. I found out the hard way...

IF at all possible, insulate the ceiling, AND the walls as well.

Seal up gaps. Garages are notorious for being leaky, drafty areas of the house. Mine sure is... I am spending quite a bit of my shop time chasing air leaks. Each draft knocked out means that much less hot air seeping into the space...

If your garage is attached, open the common man door to the house, set a box fan in the opening on high and blow in cool, and out hot air for about a half hour prior to firing up your garage AC so you don't have the huge thermal load to overcome. It's been over 100 all week, and your garage might just be in the 120s when you open that door. That is a LOT to overcome!

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #25 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 04:01 PM
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@DB...I am only about 20 miles from you in Channelview so I have been sharing the heat with you this week! :-)

I have an energy efficient garage door with seal and the outside wall has been insulated (two yrs ago when we replaced the siding with Hardi plank).

So now it is a matter of insulating the ceiling which I will have to pay someone to do because it is a low ceiling and the A/C - Heat is up there also...and I am getting too old to do that stuff. :-(.

Last couple of days it has been 102 in the garage with or without the garage door open.

Still thinking about what to do...

Thanks for the tips and advice.
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post #26 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 04:14 PM
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Lots of options... Windows sadly for those of us with an HOA, aren't among them...

There was a guy on Sawmillcreek a few years ago that built a ducted enclosure box for the exchange air for a large window unit that he mounted up and ducted through his ceiling / soffit. I would be concerned it wouldn't have enough air movement to effectively exchange the heat to the outside air without adding a blower or something...

Those mini split systems are really nice, but tend to be spendy.

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #27 of 32 Old 06-27-2012, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
Those mini split systems are really nice, but tend to be spendy.
Almost makes me want to sell one of my camera lenses.

WHOA! What was I thinking? Guess I better stay inside and cool off for awhile. Starting to get delirious.
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post #28 of 32 Old 06-28-2012, 10:00 PM
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I've got a smaller window unit in my two car garage and it works well as long you start it early in the morning and give it time to get ahead. If you are not in a rush, and while somewhat counter productive, you can wait until the end of the summer and buy a unit on clearance when they're are giving air conditioners away.
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post #29 of 32 Old 06-28-2012, 10:13 PM
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i'm running a 30 dollar 5200 btu window unit in my 14x20 shop. its maxed, with a heat index at 106 here today, it was a comfortable 80 degrees earlier this evening. My sidewalls are insulated and rocked, though my ceiling is only about half way insulated at this point (the electric bill may motivate me to finish that up in the next couple weeks.
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post #30 of 32 Old 07-05-2012, 11:24 AM
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There is alot of good information regarding cooling a shop, this should be a sticky.

It's all fun and games until someone loses the Walnut.
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post #31 of 32 Old 07-05-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
MT Stringer,

#1. Venting through the soffit. The advantage is that his vents are completely hidden from the HOA, the disadvantage is that the vent hoses have to be longer which offers more resistance to air flow, and thus cooling, and the exchange air goes through the attic which at least around me is nasty hot...
#2. Taylormade has upsized his duct from 4 or 5" whatever his unit shipped with, to 6", which allows the ducts to flow a LOT freer than my 5" will...
#3. His simple aluminum ducts are completely uninsulated. I have overwrapped my 5" ducts using 6" insulated ducting. This keeps the HOT exchange air from heating the cooled air space better. I suggested he try this one. Hoping I get a thank you note from him soon. (I tried the wrap thing as I could feel the heat off of my hot exchange hose, it REALLY helped...).
#4. His A/C rig is mounted high up on the wall, on a stand. This is a good idea that I hadn't thought of. High up like that, well hot air rises, cold air falls.
#5. Not sure if he has to do what I do. But I MUST keep the air moving / mixing. The blower in mine just doesn't have enough oomph to move the air around the whole shop. A box fan and the ceiling air filter fan keep the air moving nicely, and help the AC process all the air quickly.

If your garage is attached, open the common man door to the house, set a box fan in the opening on high and blow in cool, and out hot air for about a half hour prior to firing up your garage AC so you don't have the huge thermal load to overcome. It's been over 100 all week, and your garage might just be in the 120s when you open that door. That is a LOT to overcome!

Agree whole heartedly with what dbhost has offered here and it's a nice collection of information.

I haven't tried insulating the "hot hose" yet but it doesn't radiate out TOO bad... I may still try just to see.

Raising the A/C was three fold as cool air does fall, it allowed the exhaust and supply to be shorter runs, and it saved me valuable floor space. No brainer in many respects.

I do run a 15" shop fan opposite the A/C as well as the Delta air filter box so there's plenty of circulation.

I agree that it's important to get ahead of it early. When I know I'll be working in the shop all day, I'll open the door to the main house early in the morning and fire up the A/C until the garage is with 5 degrees of the house. At that point, I can close the door and it'll keep up fairly well.

Ut Prosim
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post #32 of 32 Old 07-05-2012, 06:19 PM
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Thanks to Craigslist, I got 1000sq ft of insulation for free yesterday.

I also got a portable unit by trading an Xbox I haven't used in over a year.

However, that portable sucks if you ask me, still plan on getting a window unit and mounting it in the wall about halfway down the shop.

I covered the exhuast port, raised the unit, kept exhuast hose at shortest length, only 1 bend, and some serious wrapping.....still at best a 10 drop....at best.

Yes, I strung tarps for a temp drop ceiling a month ago, I did lay 4" of insulation on top of the tarps.

Feels like I'm in a sound Booth, its so dead quiet in there now.

Not sure if I should cover walls with plastic to help, if it would, really have no plans to put money into a finished wall of any kind.

Also not sure if I should put insulation directly on metal ceiling, and take tarps down to open it up, or leave it the way it is....

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