5ft by 10ft Picture Frame - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-18-2018, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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5ft by 10ft Picture Frame

New to the forum and looking for advise.
I have been asked to build a 5' by 10' picture frame for a large map. I am using maple and plexiglass. I need to figure out the back (what to use) and would love some input. The back has to be removable because they are going to want to change the paper map that is in the frame a couple times a year. I was thinking of doing a flush mount with the french cleat, but I am not married to that. I am mostly concerned about the backing and supporting all the weight. The plexi will be about 50lbs by itself. The plexi and maple were chosen by the client so those are the only things I can't change.
Any ideas?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-18-2018, 03:49 PM
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Use cleats. They're about a foot long aluminum, and come as a matched pair. They're cheap, easy to catch on the frame, and hold a lot of weight.

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post #3 of 8 Old 08-18-2018, 03:59 PM
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Question That's an awful large frame ....

Typically, the frame holds the material to be displayed, artwork a photo, etc. In this case, I would lean towards having the back, mounted inside the frame of course, support the weight of the map and the frame.

Didn't know you could get Plexi in a 60" X 120 " size. It would not be my first choice in protective materials, it's soft and scratches easily, and without extreme care, will crack easily. Glass would weigh too much for a removable/changeable display case. Since it's changed out so often, could a protective coating be applied, without an additional cover? Are these maps kept and stored or disposed of after display? If stored, how? flat or rolled up?

Because of the extreme dimensions, 5 ft X 10 ft, which exceed nominal plywood sizes, 4ft X 8 ft, you may have some procurement issues. In addition, getting this thing on and off the wall will require 2 people, minimum and the ability to lay it out flat and change out the maps.....

This is a challenge I personally would not take on. The restriction on materials is definitely a limitation I would not want to deal with.
One solution is to project the image on the wall and be done with it! Change the image every 10 minutes if you want.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-18-2018, 05:10 PM
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A clear polycarbonate would probably be a better choice...

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-05-2018, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got it done! I ended just rounding over the edge and keeping it simple. It was a pain and there are quite a few screws that need to come out to change the picture but everyone is happy.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-05-2018, 03:42 PM
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Looks good, Ben, and welcome to the forum! When you get a minute complete your profile with location so it shows in the left panel.

So what's the next project?

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post #7 of 8 Old 09-05-2018, 04:47 PM
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Got it done in spite of the odds....

Looks to me like the plywood? backer stays on the wall, and the frame/plexi is removable? The frame might also be 4 separate pieces? What did you actually do?


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-05-2018, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Buckley View Post
Got it done! I ended just rounding over the edge and keeping it simple. It was a pain and there are quite a few screws that need to come out to change the picture but everyone is happy.
If the maps are valuable, then I would adhere some single weight mat boards to the backer. These should be acid-free and archival. It will create a barrier between the backer that exists and the maps. The lignins in wood products are acidic and will cause damage to both fabrics and papers.

Single weight is the thickness of oaktag; double weight is like mat board.

https://www.unitedmfrs.com/category_s/1638.htm

There are a few ways to make "acid free" board. The best way is to start with a pulp of material that is not naturally acidic in the first place (cotton). The next is to take materials that are acidic and wash them with sufficient water to remove the acid. The third way is to impregnate the materials with calcium carbonate (Tums). The first two options are very good choices. The acid neutralized (calcium carbonate) paper will lose its neutrality over time, and is not a very good choice.

If these are not collectors' maps then ignore the above.
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