5/8 drawer material.. buy or make? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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I just made a few drawers for my miter saw station.. they are all crooked.. none of the fronts sit flat, even the front of the drawer is slightly crooked compared to the cabinet face.. admittedly, I paid little attention to the finer details.. I think even the sides aren't straight.. they are only off by a 1/16th, it irks me, but again.. #neverstoplearning

and it's very quick garage stuff just to get my miter saw off a stack of plywood. Trying to diagnose what and where the errors are.
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post #22 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 09:01 PM
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I agree, I just wish I didn't have to drive an hour each way to get my hands on some baltic birch... but simple hardwoods are more readily available in a 20 minute drive each way. For maple or something like that, I'd still have to make the drive.

Obviously, I'm not a cabinet maker, and make nothing for profit. I agree that nicer furniture merits a nicer drawer box, but i'm still trying to get my drawer chops down at all... practical experience and all.. I'm a novice at best at this point.

I can't believe I can't find a decent lumber house in the Conroe/Montgomery/The Woodlands area just north of Houston. But I haven't yet... there's plenty of places in town, but it's a hike.
You gotta get closer to Houston...
I use Clark's Hardwoods in the Heights. And there is Houston Hardwoods also.

Make it a road trip. Lots of good places to eat between here and there!
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post #23 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 09:03 PM
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I agree, I just wish I didn't have to drive an hour each way to get my hands on some baltic birch... but simple hardwoods are more readily available in a 20 minute drive each way. For maple or something like that, I'd still have to make the drive.

Obviously, I'm not a cabinet maker, and make nothing for profit. I agree that nicer furniture merits a nicer drawer box, but i'm still trying to get my drawer chops down at all... practical experience and all.. I'm a novice at best at this point.

I can't believe I can't find a decent lumber house in the Conroe/Montgomery/The Woodlands area just north of Houston. But I haven't yet... there's plenty of places in town, but it's a hike.
About 2 1/2 hours in Austin there is Brazos Forest Products. You can get pretty much any wood there and if you order it in advance they will surface the wood in what ever thickness you desire.
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post #24 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 09:12 PM
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Not obsolete. People just want more for less. It's common for smaller shops to butt joint. Better cabinets require better options for drawers as well as hardware.

Everyone in this business has their standard and their upgrade... When I ran my shop, I gave a base price and the option to upgrade...This system seemed to work well with customers as it gave them more control of the final outcome...
My perspective on it is the dovetail joint may look pretty but if you can build someone a drawer that will last them the rest of their life with a butt joint no other system is necessary. Then when their children or grandchildren has the joint fail and a repair is needed a lot less skills are needed to make that repair. They may not need professional help.
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post #25 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 09:37 PM
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5/8" Baltic Birch for me. Did it with my Reliant dovetail jig for 15 year, got a Grizzly dovetail machine now.






Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com

Last edited by Leo G; 06-28-2017 at 09:42 PM.
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post #26 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:11 PM
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I forgot to mention that when I built the drawers for our cabinets, I only dovetailed the fronts. No one ever sees the rears anyway, so why bother! Cut my build time considerably.

And lately, I have switched to 1/2 inch Baltic birch with butt joints. If the drawer hardware features a soft close mechanism, chances are the drawer will last a looong time.
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post #27 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:19 PM
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I like the dovetails because you put a little glue in them and bang them together and you're done. No clamps or nails. I have a lock joint that I make on the tablesaw. It's quick to make, but you have to clamp the joint and wait for the glue to dry. So you lose time at the back end.




Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #28 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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You gotta get closer to Houston...
I use Clark's Hardwoods in the Heights. And there is Houston Hardwoods also.

Make it a road trip. Lots of good places to eat between here and there!
shooooot... I just LEFT Houston for the sound of crickets and frogs (and apparently scorpions, black widows, flies, and birds that love to peck and poop at my truck mirrors)

Closer would be a hardwood company on 290, but it's a hike.

I'm nervous to store too much wood here.. the humidity is so bad, plus I'm limited somewhat on space, unless I ditched the bass boat, then I'd have a ton of space.. but....
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post #29 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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I like the dovetails because you put a little glue in them and bang them together and you're done. No clamps or nails. I have a lock joint that I make on the tablesaw. It's quick to make, but you have to clamp the joint and wait for the glue to dry. So you lose time at the back end.



why not glue + 18 gauge that joint and go?

Ive tried several attempts at those lock rabbit joints, and for some unknown reason, the results are mixed.

I cut 5 drawers like that the other day, all from the same piece of ply, and all pieces at the same time. It was a disaster. A couple of the joints came out perfect, but others came out with the rabbit to thick, and it split the dado end right off... others came out with the fitting rabbit too long, leaving a gap in the joint.. others, the rabbit to short and not bottoming out...

left me scratching my head, opened beer instead..
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post #30 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:30 PM
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I rabbeted my plywood drawers. They work great.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

... turning perfectly good wood into firewood every day ... :smile3:
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post #31 of 33 Old 06-28-2017, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plasma800 View Post
why not glue + 18 gauge that joint and go?

Ive tried several attempts at those lock rabbit joints, and for some unknown reason, the results are mixed.

I cut 5 drawers like that the other day, all from the same piece of ply, and all pieces at the same time. It was a disaster. A couple of the joints came out perfect, but others came out with the rabbit to thick, and it split the dado end right off... others came out with the fitting rabbit too long, leaving a gap in the joint.. others, the rabbit to short and not bottoming out...

left me scratching my head, opened beer instead..
I make these on the tablesaw using a rip blade. (because it has square teeth)

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #32 of 33 Old 06-29-2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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I make these on the tablesaw using a rip blade. (because it has square teeth)
interesting point I had yet to consider. I used my dado inner and outer blade... probably 1/4 was too much for 1/2 inch ply.
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post #33 of 33 Old 06-29-2017, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
My perspective on it is the dovetail joint may look pretty but if you can build someone a drawer that will last them the rest of their life with a butt joint no other system is necessary. Then when their children or grandchildren has the joint fail and a repair is needed a lot less skills are needed to make that repair. They may not need professional help.
I don't make people buy dovetails, I offer them. I get $45 over $15 a box when I ran my shop many years ago...

Some people especially those who are finally ready to have a house built or upgraded after years paying on a mortgage want something better than the cheapest set..
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