3/16 inch cutting bit - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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3/16 inch cutting bit

Hello.
I need to cut a 3/16" groove in 1.75" thick oak boards. It must be done without re-positioning the work piece.
Can anyone suggest where I can get a router bit that is long enough to perform this task?

Thanks,

Gary
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Last edited by cat1870; 05-07-2015 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Photo
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:21 PM
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Are you talking about a router bit? MLCS or FREUD should have them. MLCS has a straight router bit by TripleWing, that is single fluted and sized at 3/16" with 1/4" shaft. PN:5467. I don't have a Freud catolog so can't look there. Google is your best friend.
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:24 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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how about a sketch....

Where in the board? Along an edge?
Is it a straight groove or curved?
Can you use a slot cutter? How about a table saw?

That is a very small diameter for that length of cut... it may break, so buy several if you can even find them....



http://www.eagleamerica.com/prod_det..._straight_bits

102-0322 dia.: 3/16"
cutting length:5/8" not long enough......
SC 1/4" $15.75

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-07-2015 at 08:35 PM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldEagle2012 View Post
Are you talking about a router bit? MLCS or FREUD should have them. MLCS has a straight router bit by TripleWing, that is single fluted and sized at 3/16" with 1/4" shaft. PN:5467. I don't have a Freud catolog so can't look there. Google is your best friend.
I just need to cut a 1.75 " deep slot into the edge of an oak 1x2.
It must go all the way through the 1.75" wide oak.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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See photo on 1st post at the beginning.
I just added the photo.
Thanks.
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post #6 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:38 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I'm thinkin' table saw ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cat1870 View Post
I just need to cut a 1.75 " deep slot into the edge of an oak 1x2.
It must go all the way through the 1.75" wide oak.

A 3/16" thick blade would work, kinda special tho. Maybe take 2 thin kerf blades and a cardboard spacer. Finish up on the bandsaw. Maybe the whole project could be done oin the bandsaw.... I donno?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
A 3/16" thick blade would work, kinda special tho. Maybe take 2 thin kerf blades and a cardboard spacer. Finish up on the bandsaw. Maybe the whole project could be done oin the bandsaw.... I donno?
I found something from MSC Industrial.
Small cuts should work on the router or milling machine.

Thanks Gents for your help.

Gary
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 08:55 PM
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it will go very slow

Quote:
Originally Posted by cat1870 View Post
I found something from MSC Industrial.
Small cuts should work on the router or milling machine.

Thanks Gents for your help.

Gary
You may have found a bit, but the other methods I suggested would be much faster and if you break any bits in an attempt to speed up the process, it will prove costly. You will not not break a slot cutter or a tablesaw blade. A proper blade on a bandsaw will surprise you at it's efficiency... don't ask me how I know this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You may have found a bit, but the other methods I suggested would be much faster and if you break any bits in an attempt to speed up the process, it will prove costly. You will not not break a slot cutter or a tablesaw blade. A proper blade on a bandsaw will surprise you at it's efficiency... don't ask me how I know this.
I'm new at this....
Can I get a band saw blade 3/16" thick?
Is the a slot cutter that will cut 1 1/2" or more?
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 09:16 PM
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yes and no...

Not new at this, and thinking out of the box will help. A 3/16" thick bandsaw blade does exist but way out of your league here.

A slot cutter may require 2 passes, I don't know the maximum depth, but I suspect it's not enough even with 2 passes. A biscuit cutter may work but they have a weird arbor size. I'm back to stacking 2 table saw blades OR making 2 passes on the bandsaw.

There may be a box blade for a table saw that is 3/16" thick, I donno?

Certainly a wobble dado blade will work OR a set of wobble washers to fit on your existing saw blade, the 1/2" arbor can be bored out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-WARR...item27fec4783c


Wobble blade:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-by-Irwin...item5d5356d7a8

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-07-2015 at 09:19 PM.
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-07-2015, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat1870 View Post
I'm new at this....
Can I get a band saw blade 3/16" thick?
Is the a slot cutter that will cut 1 1/2" or more?
You do not need a blade that thick. You make as many passes as necessary to get the width cut that you require.

Do not make the task more complicated than necessary.

George
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post #12 of 17 Old 05-09-2015, 05:07 PM
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>>>> You make as many passes as necessary to get the width cut that you require.

Did you miss this from the OP in his initial posting? " It must be done without re-positioning the [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue ! important]work [COLOR=blue ! important]piece[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]."

Howie..........
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post #13 of 17 Old 05-09-2015, 08:23 PM
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What is the problem with 'repositioning' the work piece?
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-09-2015, 10:13 PM
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hard to know ...

Probably a issue of time/expediency. I am still wondering if two 3/32" thin kerf blades would yield a 3/16" kerf on the table saw. I may have to just go out in the shop and try it out to satisfy my own curiosity. It looks like a knife blade or a bed frame bracket or some other metal plate is inserted in the slot. Probably has to make a bunch of them, all identical..... who knows?

I wish the folks asking "how to" would state the application as it may directly influence the advice...

I have very good results... after making several test runs, making identical passes on the bandsaw using the stock fence and a stop block. Make a pass, flip it over, make another pass, kinda thing for tenons. That way you get a vertical end in the slot rather than a portion of a table saw blade.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-10-2015, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
...without repositioning the workpiece...
Probably didn't get around to reading the original post...


Much ado about nothing ..... really? How do you know? Maybe this is a repetitive operation performed on many workpieces, possibly hundreds?
Where do you come up with these answers that aren't the least bit helpful?
At least reply with a working solution.... just sayin'

Here's mine, 2 - 10" Diablo blades, a 60 tooth and a 40 tooth nested completely where no teeth are touching AND will make the pass through 1 3/4" thick stock:
Depending on the length of the required slot, your method and the material held vertically in a tenoning jig would yield a very clean result with a square bottom.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #16 of 17 Old 05-10-2015, 11:35 AM
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Exactly

Quote:
Originally Posted by cat1870 View Post
I just need to cut a 1.75 " deep slot into the edge of an oak 1x2.
It must go all the way through the 1.75" wide oak.
.... possibly meaning the end rather than edge as shown here?




Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Depending on the length of the required slot, your method and the material held vertically in a tenoning jig would yield a very clean result with a square bottom.

Based on the description above I suspect it will work just fine. A 10" saw blade has a maximum depth of cut of 3" +or - , so a slot of 1 3/4" would be doable. The flat bottom would require no additional operation if the tenoning jig were used. My experiment was to prove I could get a 3/16" kerf using 2 thin kerf blades sandwiched together and it was spot of using the steel scale for a measurement.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-11-2015, 04:34 PM
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I made a trial run

I used a 40 T and a 60 T Diablo blade sandwiched together to form a 3/16" kerf:
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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