14” Bandsaw Problem Please Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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14” Bandsaw Problem Please Help

grandfather. I’m 77, in the process of setting up my wood shop. In 2015 I had a complete workshop with most imaginable tools. I was poisoned 🤢 and spent 6 months in the hospital and lost my property and wood shop.
So I am starting new again at this age. I use to build large things from houses decks docks giant frogs and furniture. I am envisioning doing smaller more precise and imaginative tasks. My first will be an small Incense Cabinet with doors drawers pillars and decorative brass and copper accents. The wood will be Paduck Cycote Teak and some asst hardwoods for pillars.
Now I have one big problem! I bought a 14” floor model bandsaw at a yard sale. The owner plugged it in and it seemed to run fine, smooth with a light hum. There was some rust, the blade bearings were frozen and the blocks chewed and tires cracked. I owned a 4 speed HF model for several years with 1/2” blade and loved it. Took it home and replaced the blade bearings blocks and tires. Removed table and all rust and painted the bottom half. Took the old 1/4” blade which was tight off.
Bought a new 6 tooth 3/8” Olson 93.5” blade. Now when I put the blade on I have too much slack... if I try and tighten it the top wheel touches and binds and the blade is still slack???
I have a manual for a similar 14” HF model and the blade follows the blade-path perfectly. I had a friend who has owned a bandsaw and he could not figure it out either. Something obvious I’m missing but what. The traveling height block has a nut on the bottom that drops out of its socket when turned all the way down. But it goes back into the block and does it’s job raising it to its maximum travel.
I have measured the original 1/4” blade against the Olson and length is correct. I tried using washers under the nut and raising it sooner ( also tried hardwood under the adjustment screw to shorten travel. But none of it worked. My friend suggested a 1/2” thick steel plate sandwiched between the base and upper unit but that solution seems extreme. There has got to be something simple/stupid that I am forgetting or overlooking in putting the blade on or in adjusting the top wheel. When the top wheel is at its maximum and frozen against the rim cover I still have slack in the blade. Please help this grandfather.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 02:12 PM
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Please post make and model of the saw?
hawkeye10 likes this.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 02:48 PM
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Have you measured both blades? Its common for there to be a tolerance on the length, depending on the tooth count because the blade cant be welded half way through a tooth.
Mark the inside of the blade, put that mark on the floor and mark the floor. Roll the blade along carefully so it doesnt slip, and mark where the original mark hits the floor again. Use a tape measure between the two floor markings. Do the same for the other blade.
Do they match?

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post #4 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 06:02 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Try this .....

If the old blade was tight and the new blade is "loose" they are not the same length!

The upper wheel should be adjusted so that it's between the highest and lowest travel setting. I would set to that point and use a thin tape measure or a length of string wrapped and marked across when they are held tight and then measure that length and see what you get. It may be 93"or even less...... let us know. Be as accurate as you can. I will say that 93.5" is a standard length for a whole lot of 14" bandsaws.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 06:37 PM
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I looked thru the Olsen chart. Most 14 inch saws use 93.5 inch blades. Many 14 inch saws use longer blades.

The only 14" saw that uses a blade SHORTER than 93.5 inches is a :

Wilton 8201K+VS 14″: 92 1⁄2″ x 1/8″– 3/4″
8203K+VS 14″: 92 1⁄2″ x 1/8″– 3/4″


If the old blade is total junk, break the weld, lay it out and measure the length.

It is also possible, not likely but possible, the new blade is NOT 93.5 inches even tho it came in a box which said it was.

https://www.olsonsaw.net/wp-content/...ths-Widths.pdf

Last edited by Dave McCann; 07-11-2020 at 06:39 PM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I will remeasure both blades but I put them in a circle ⭕️ and the 1/4 old one was outside the new one. But something is wrong or missing and I will restart on it tomorrow. The is Hongkong Mfg and was the HF brand before Central Machinery became its label brand. It’s about 20 years old and single speed, but that is the only speed I used of the 4 choices on my previous bandsaw. It has no settings on back spring for blade widths but I assume??? It can handle anything up to 1/2” width. Now I’m so not sure?
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-11-2020, 10:13 PM
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I expect you need a 92 1/2” blade. The early years of the Grizzly G0555 14” Bandsaw came from the factory set up for 92 1/2” blades, but could be adjusted to use 93 1/2” blades. At some point Grizzly changed that model so they came from the factory set up for 93 1/2” blades. I realize yours is not a Grizzly, but being a much older saw it probably needs a 92 1/2” blade.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-12-2020, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandfather View Post
Took it home and replaced the blade bearings blocks and tires. Removed table and all rust and painted the bottom half. Took the old 1/4” blade which was tight off.
Bought a new 6 tooth 3/8” Olson 93.5” blade. Now when I put the blade on I have too much slack... if I try and tighten it the top wheel touches and binds and the blade is still slack???
The old blade was tight.
You worked on the saw.
The new blade is slack.

Did you try reinstalling the old blade after you worked on the saw? Did it tighten up just fine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandfather View Post
I will remeasure both blades but I put them in a circle ⭕️ and the 1/4 old one was outside the new one.
This would indicate that the new blade is actually shorter than your old blade.

Last edited by Dave McCann; 07-12-2020 at 08:53 AM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-12-2020, 09:24 AM
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Usually there is a spring around the tension height block. Could the spring have lost it's tension?
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-12-2020, 07:39 PM
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Did you remove the wheels to install the new tires?


Pictures?
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-12-2020, 08:02 PM
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I have an old 14" clone that requires 92 1/2" blades. I have a 93 1/2 blade on it at the moment but it runs full up and could be tighter. Tom-G is probably correct.


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post #12 of 12 Old 07-13-2020, 11:08 AM
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You can use a 1/4" pocket tape measure to measure using cloths pins to hold it to the wheels to get a measurement. I suggest marking the size on the inside cover for future reference.

Gary

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