wood ceiling - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-14-2018, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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wood ceiling

Looking to install decorative wood ceiling in my lanai in Florida. Thinking cypress or cedar. Is this the best choice? With metal studs how would you attach them to the ceiling? Simple rectangular shape? Would glued laminate work?
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-14-2018, 09:31 AM
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metal studs?

You mean metal rafters? I would screw on "nailers" 3/4" x 2" or so to the rafters, making certain the screw heads are flush. That way you can nail any type of wood to them easily.

What wood to use? Cypress and Cedar are "rot proof" when installed close to grade, so no need for them under the roof unless it's not water tight. If the roof sheds rain water, then use what ever material you like, but I would seal both sides before installing. I like Cypress a lot, but I don't recall the species I used. It was rough sawn about 7/8" thick, so a bit thick for ceilings.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-14-2018, 03:53 PM
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tongue n groove cedar and pine is more readily available in Florida Big Box Stores
than cypress. check lumber yards in your area for what you are looking for
before buying at HD or Lowe's.
T&G Southern Yellow Pine is also readily available and has a nice yellowish tint.
same with cypress - it will yellow with age and then turn grayish tan.
cedar goes on brown and darkens with age to a dark brown.
if you are going to paint the wood - every knot must be hand primed with
a stain blocker prior to installation.
[a ceiling in a Florida Lanai does not come in contact with the ground or water]

glued laminate ?? not sure what you mean with that one.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-15-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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There would not be a problem with the pine warping from the high humidity here in south Florida? Plan on staining the wood, should I seal both sides before installing? What sealer would you recommend? Obviously I am a novice. Thanks for your help.
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-15-2018, 04:45 PM
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I recently bought a 1957 block home in Kissimmee . . .
the open carport ceiling and the ceiling over the front porch
is 1x6" T&G pine stained a very dark color.
they are nailed onto 16" OC rafters.
tongue & groove boards are extremely sturdy when attached to a solid foundation.
there is no warping, twisting, or rot in any of the boards.
but of course, back then, they used old heart pine that is very dense.
where are you in Florida ?? does your home have a anti-termite program in place ?
as for painting - would you prefer painting boards on saw horses in your garage
or - painting with a roller overhead with paint dripping down all over the place ??
(or - hire a professional painter to paint after the install).
as mentioned above, installing 1x2 furring strips for nailers will make for an easy install.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-16-2018, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I am in Naples. Planning to stain them before installing. Should I seal them beforehand? What should I use?
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-16-2018, 01:32 PM
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I would stay within the same Brand Name and Type for satisfactory results.
ask the technician at the desk where you plan to purchase your stain.
but take into effect: just because they work there does not make them an
authority on any kind of paint or finish.
there is a forum here that covers "Painting & Finishing" https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/ and
https://www.diychatroom.com/f4/

post your question there with as much information as you can about the wood
you will be using and the type of stain you would like to use. (and gloss, satin, or flat clear coat).
for me personally, I do not like to paint overhead with any kind of tool. (brush or roller).
so I do as much as possible in the comfort of the garage on saw horses.
you will have to construct some kind of drying rack to get as many boards as you can
done in one day. I would stain all at once for even coverage then clear coat after 24 hrs.
stand vertical against a wall for drying.
that is jus my Dos Centavos.
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-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-17-2018, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Went to home today and saw the rafters are actually wooden. Would you still recommend using firing/nailing strips attached to the rafters and nailing the planks into them?
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-17-2018, 05:54 PM
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if you could share some photos of your project,
that might get you some more accurate information.
since the wood rafters are showing, furring strips would only be required
if you wanted to change the direction of your wood board ceiling.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 09-17-2018 at 05:57 PM.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-24-2018, 01:54 PM
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if it were me, I would spend some time on a ladder with some string to verify the rafters are all on the same plane, generally. much variation will telegraph though once a big flat surface is applied. if they are not acceptably flat, then furring strips can be installed and flattened for your new ceiling. or, light shimming can be done with small areas.


if there is say one rafter that is out of plane, you can nail a (straight) sister rafter along side it to provide a flat nailing surface.
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