Windows and Drywall--uneven. Trim install. Help!! - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 23 Old 02-25-2013, 05:49 AM
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Windows are a crucial design element of your home. Here I get best explanation about windows and drywall. As well as many people like to hire best interior designer for home decoration.
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post #22 of 23 Old 02-25-2013, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by NickSaw76 View Post
I'm getting ready to put oak trim around every window in a house that was never fully completed. Though I'm not new to woodworking I honestly don't have much experience installing trim. I've got roughly 20 windows to trim and below is a picture of a problem I'm going to run into right off the bat. If you look closely at the picture you will see that the drywall sticks out past the window roughly 1/4" on all 4 sides of the window. Most of the windows are like this in the picture. There are others where the drywall sticks out 1/4" on once side, an 1/8" on the bottom and is flush at the top. The windows cannot be removed and reset since brick work outside has already been done. I have all of the oak trim but I'm stumped on how to install it over an uneven edging. Any ideas or help would be helpfull.
Take your razor knife or a rasp and shave the sheetrock back to being even with the window frame.....maybe 1 inch or so back for the larger spots poking will bevel the rock enough so you can put your trim even with the window...the trim will hide any shaving you have to do and it will never be seen.

Dont worry about the bottom of the window, your sill will hide that.
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post #23 of 23 Old 03-01-2013, 11:13 PM
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Hammer's spot on. I find it easier to trim a window when the jamb is slightly inset from the drywall, rather than when the jamb is sticking out. I tap the edge of the wallboard with a hammer to crush it, stopping about 2/3 the width of the casing back.
A little trick for cutting your miters in this situation that Hammer also touched on: for a back-cut 45, set your saw to about 44.5 degrees. Position the casing with the outside edge against the fence and lift the edge closest to you off the saw table slightly - about 1/16". (You can use a shim to steady it when making the cut if you prefer.) This produces a very slight compound with a miter of 45 and a back bevel of roughly 1 degree which hollows out the back of your pieces enough to ensure that the profile faces have no gaps. You may have to play with it a bit until you get the hang of it.
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