Window casing help.. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
Window casing help..

I am trimming out my windows in my basement but I am having trouble trying to come up with the correct look for the type of windows I have.

This is what my windows look like and I plan on doing a craftsman style trim with a header over each window.


Now my question is with the sill being so deep I don't know if adding an overhang is possible.

This is the header style I plan on doing over each window but I am not sure what I should do for the casing...



Should I use 1"x4" with 45ļs around the window with no sill? I am just not sure what would look right because all the deep windows I see just have regular casing around them and I want to add some detail with the headers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
jrichards is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 10:07 AM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
WELCOME TO THE FORUM

As short as the windows are, I might pick a casing that would give an illusion of height, maybe something like this. As for a sill, I would use a comparable detail as the header similar to this. The sill should represent close to the same width as the header. You could add a detail under the sill in a moderate profile.

The images posted here are not my images, but just used as an example. Door casings and base moulding if used should be representative of the window trim.






cabinetman is offline  
post #3 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for the welcome and ideas!!
jrichards is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 Old 08-07-2010, 11:46 PM
Member
 
craftsman jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Connecticut, US
Posts: 40
View craftsman jay's Photo Album My Photos
Typically, when I do arts and crafts with a pediment, I usually will just miter the bottom corners. Keeping a flat appearance all around (no sill or apron). This keeps the focus on the detail work of the pediment.

"My greatest creation wasn't made with my hands,
but my heart goes into everything I do." Craftsman Jay
craftsman jay is offline  
post #5 of 16 Old 08-08-2010, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
That was my original intention but I wasn't sure if that was the "correct" look or if there was another standard for that style. I appreciate the feedback!!
jrichards is offline  
post #6 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
Do they make base moulding without the grooved back? What trim do you use for the header caps? I was looking at all of the base at HD and all of it was grooved out on the backside...
jrichards is offline  
post #7 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 02:23 PM
Scotty D
 
mdntrdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL.
Posts: 4,479
View mdntrdr's Photo Album My Photos
Why do you need base without the relieved back?

Are you using it for an apron?

If so, you can retun the ends with 45 deg. miters.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

"Like" us on facebook
www.ScottyDsWoodworks.com
Watch Our YouTube Video
mdntrdr is offline  
post #8 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
I am using the base (upside down) as a cap on the headers above my windows.

Something like this...

jrichards is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 03:18 PM
Scotty D
 
mdntrdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL.
Posts: 4,479
View mdntrdr's Photo Album My Photos
Are you talking about on top of the crown moulding?

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

"Like" us on facebook
www.ScottyDsWoodworks.com
Watch Our YouTube Video
mdntrdr is offline  
post #10 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
Yes, from what I can tell its base upside down, is there something else I can use.
jrichards is offline  
post #11 of 16 Old 08-19-2010, 04:54 PM
Scotty D
 
mdntrdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL.
Posts: 4,479
View mdntrdr's Photo Album My Photos
The base would work fine as long as its wide enough to reach the wall.

when you miter the ends to return to the wall, that will hide the relief.

Or you could just use a 3/4" board with a routed profile for the cap.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

"Like" us on facebook
www.ScottyDsWoodworks.com
Watch Our YouTube Video
mdntrdr is offline  
post #12 of 16 Old 08-20-2010, 11:59 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: milwaukee, wi
Posts: 1,345
View sanchez's Photo Album My Photos
The trim in those first few pictures looks exactly like the trim in my old house that was built in 1930. I loved the woodwork in that house. My 2008 new construction has nowhere near as nice woodwork.
sanchez is offline  
post #13 of 16 Old 08-24-2010, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 9
View jrichards's Photo Album My Photos
Well I worked on the windows over this past weekend. I went ahead and just used 1x4's for the casing and the caps on the crown. I still need to caulk, prime, and paint but I have to finish the rest of the trim.

What do you think?




Last edited by jrichards; 08-24-2010 at 02:04 PM.
jrichards is offline  
post #14 of 16 Old 08-25-2010, 09:19 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 8
View claymation's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrichards View Post
What do you think?
Here's my quick 2 cents:
Move the crown up to increase the reveal on the header to more closely approximate the dimensions on the sides. Crown is too big/"heavy" on those short windows; I think it calls for a narrower crown. the sill too wide; makes the windows seem even shorter. Shorten the ears on the sill and put a round over on it. Remove and rescribe the sides where the gap is at the top; I don't think they make enough caulk to fill that gap! ;-) I don't do a lot of trim, but these are the things that caught my eye. Keep up the good work.
claymation is offline  
post #15 of 16 Old 08-29-2010, 07:01 AM
Really underground garage
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: mnts of Va
Posts: 2,552
View BWSmith's Photo Album My Photos
Basically agree with claymation.

This window is a tuffy.........You really need to weigh heavily on making it appear taller.Keeping Horz. "lines" (and unbroken crown is really just a bunch of lines)to a min.Not suggesting this for your windows but flutes/reads on the verts inhance this tallness for example.The wider reveal under crown will really help.And I would cheat the width on sides as much as I could stand it.This narrowing will bring those 2 vert "lines" closer together and also shorten the overall package.And would even consider a "sectioned" chamfer on the verts(sectioned as to not extend full length,stop short of sill/header),so as to add some vert lines and fool the eye somewhat.BW
BWSmith is offline  
post #16 of 16 Old 11-04-2010, 09:52 PM
MGB
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
View MGB's Photo Album My Photos
If you want an honest opinion I think your too heavy on your header. Plus on the sill I would cut the horns back to 3/4"-1"


This is what I typically use for built up headers.




Comes in a variety of sizes, from 1 1/4" to 2 1/4"

I think you had the right idea in your original post
MGB is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help making a 'back band' around window/door casing. RickDel Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 9 07-16-2010 10:15 AM
How to end/return my chair rail and top cap at the window/door casing?? RickDel Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 16 07-07-2010 09:39 PM
How to open motor casing on drill press sfhellwig Power Tools & Machinery 10 03-10-2010 03:16 PM
Final finish for new home doors, casing, etc.? jody Wood Finishing 4 10-27-2009 09:09 AM
Radius Fluted Casing BULLHART Trim Carpentry & Built-Ins 18 06-08-2007 06:04 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome