What router bit to duplicate this door trim - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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What router bit to duplicate this door trim

Hi. First post here.

All the doors on my 1920 bungalow have this particular door trim, see attached pics (must be fairly common to this era as the local used building materials center has lots of similar doors, though I was told by a couple of contractors that you can no longer buy doors in this style).

Anyhow, I bought a set of bifolds (the "720 shaker" model pictured on this link) and I wanted to add some interior trim to match the existing doors.

Does anyone know a source for the router bit that can cut this profile. the recess of the center panel on the bifolds and original doors is 1/2"

Tony
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 06:37 PM
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This looks pretty close.....

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&site=ROCKLER

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post #3 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcleve4911 View Post
13/16" or 1" depth looks too deep.
also, the pattern I need is concave, concave, convex, the above looks to be concave, convex, concave

perhaps making a negative-mould and taking it to the woodcraft/rockler store would be easiest approach?

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post #4 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 07:08 PM
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That is a cope and rail cut done on the door stiles and rails, the molding wasn't added later but you could do that if the doors you bought have square edges around the panels. That pattern is available for cabinet doors but it would take a larger set to actually make entry or passage doors. This may not be exactly the same size but it might be pretty close with a little ingenuity. You would only use part of the #8872 bit.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_bits1.html
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 07:19 PM
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It looks to be just a stack of two mouldings, each made separately with a standard router bit. The first (next to the panel) looks like a cove, and on top of it is a quarter round.









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post #6 of 7 Old 03-16-2013, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I realize that the moulding (on the 1920's doors) is an integral part of the frame and wasn't added later. However I'm going to have to add it to the bifolds (route 1/2" deep stock, then glue/brad nail). Routing the bifold MDF in place using a jig doesn't seem an option, not least in the corners.

Here is a better pic of the original 1920 door and the new 2012 MDF bifold.

Whether the decorative style will look good on the narrower bifold profile is of course an open question. I was going do one first as a test.

Thanks for the MLCS link, looks almost exactly what was used to make these doors, including the groove for the plywood panel. I wish I'd known as it took me a while to find used matching doors for the remodel, I could have built them from scratch with that bit.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer1 View Post
That is a cope and rail cut done on the door stiles and rails, the molding wasn't added later but you could do that if the doors you bought have square edges around the panels. That pattern is available for cabinet doors but it would take a larger set to actually make entry or passage doors. This may not be exactly the same size but it might be pretty close with a little ingenuity. You would only use part of the #8872 bit.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_bits1.html
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Last edited by crazybrit; 03-16-2013 at 08:55 PM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-17-2013, 10:12 AM
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Whenever you get involved in matching trim on old houses it nearly always involves having cutting knives made. It's very rare to just buy a bit that looks similar enough to get by. You might find a cabinet shop or a furniture repair shop that has a shaper that can make a set of knives to make the trim. As simple as the design is, it might not cost too much for the tooling. If you have a table saw and a lot of patience you might consider grinding a cutting knife to go on a cutter similar to this one. There is a different cutter which only has one knife instead of three. With only one knife you have to run the wood really slow but it will work.
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