I'm not too concerned about movement two reasons
1 we r in central Cali we don't have too much problems with movement ( as far as I have noticed throughout the years)
2 I put in closed cell spray foam insulation,
There is NO air penetration into the house AND there is a built in dehumidifier which keeps a constant temp and humidity in the house.
My main question is the t&g what's the best fastest way to do it that works, I also plan on using titebond lll on all joints.
You stated that the wood was 1", and you were going to plane it. You didn't say how thick you were going to make the flooring. So, I will generalize an answer to try to answer your question.
Since you said your tile was already installed, I'm assuming you want the wood flush to the tile. So, you will have to plane it to a thickness that will account for any substrating, which includes the thickness of the glue.
For T&G flooring, you will cut widths in several sizes (if you want random widths), and will wind up with various stacks of lumber for each width. A T&G will produce a "V" joint on one side and just a butted seam on the other. Like most jointed flooring the ends are also jointed, so there will be alignment.
For a 'loose tenon', that will be a spline. That's just machined with a slot cutting bit. The major difference will be that the surfaces for a spline cut aren't affected by the cut, like a T&G is. On a T&G, part of the face is beveled. In using splines you would have to cut up spline stock, bookoo feet of it.
And last, for a glue down, solid lumber would be difficult to compress to the glue over any size area at a time to get all the pieces flat. Furthermore, with all the wood being joined, if there is a lifting or a movement problem, its just not one piece that will do that, as you will be gluing all of it.