Shoe Molding Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 10-20-2011, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Shoe Molding Help

I just finished installing a new 3/4" solid hardwood floor and I am running into an issue with the shoe molding. I have baseboard heat which doesn't allow me to use a traditional two piece baseboard and shoe molding. As you can see in the picture, the wall behind the baseboard back panel is plaster and the gap is too far to nail the shoe molding to the subfloor. (The front panel of the heater is removed for clarity.) Also, there is a lip on the bottom of the back panel that is curved out and upward and prevents me from attaching the molding to the panel itself (not even sure if this would work).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can attach the molding and still allow for movement of the floor? I am completely at a loss for ideas.

Thanks,
Kevin Mogee
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post #2 of 5 Old 10-20-2011, 04:16 PM
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With the heater panel off, it's hard to tell how much room you have under for the shoe. If the shoe can fit under the panel. you could use an adhesive caulk between the shoe and the plaster. Or, you could use long finish nails or trim screws to the toe plate.








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post #3 of 5 Old 10-20-2011, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post

With the heater panel off, it's hard to tell how much room you have under for the shoe. If the shoe can fit under the panel. you could use an adhesive caulk between the shoe and the plaster. Or, you could use long finish nails or trim screws to the toe plate.




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Thanks for the welcome.



There is plenty of room under the panel for the shoe. The problem with adhering the shoe to the plaster is the lip on the bottom of the back panel; it pushes the shoe out at least 1/4" away from the wall. So I think the gap for the caulk to too great. Also, that same lip makes it impossible to screw the shoe to the back panel.

The way the shoe fits (bad pun, I know), when lying on the floor puts the top of it right at the bottom edge of the back panel. I don't think there is any way to attach it to the heater panel.

Now that I think about it, your idea of caulk is probably the best solution. Do you have any suggestions on how to ensure the trim stays flat on the floor when caulking it to the wall?

Thanks in advance for all your help. My wife will be very happy when I finally finish this project!
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post #4 of 5 Old 10-25-2011, 12:24 PM
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I haven't trimmed many houses with baseboard hot water heat, but I don't ever remember seeing drywall flat under the heat exchanger as you picture. It looks to me that the installer just stuck it under there to hold it up while he soldered the ends.

Nor have I ever seen shoe run around baseboard heat. They are designed to draw cold air off the floor and exhaust warm air out the top.

I would think about yanking the drywalll out and putting the covers back on.

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post #5 of 5 Old 10-27-2011, 07:30 AM
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since the shoe mold fills the gap between the wall and floor, and this joint changes by season at least. you want the shoe mold to stay with the floor, not the wall. i nail it to the floor at a 45 deg angle with 2" brads. i have never had a problem with the brads keeping the floor from moving what it needs to move. jmho.
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