Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: The Land of Jersey
Brad, I think using the books is a great idea. The one thing the books sometimes don't explain is how to deal with small obstacles that can leave you frustrated, like differing surface areas when trying to apply trim as flat as possible. A common problem is door and window jambs that extend out farther than the sheetrock or plaster, or the reverse which is common for those of us that trim newer openings, where the sheetrock sticks out beyond the edge of the jambs. These are small problems that can be remedied fairly easy. It is also a good idea to always take the time to scribe or notch moldings for tight clean fits.
Scraping away old caulk is important after removing old trim, and sometimes you have to break out the trusty block plane to lower high spots on the jambs I mentioned.
Yesterday I spent nearly 20min trying to scribe and notch an eight inch long piece of baseboard to fit between the end of a baseboard heating element and a short section of wall. I needed to notch cleanly around the copper pipe and sit the base and a very buckled harwood floor all confined to a space barely big enough to get one hand into, and not to mention the tip of a nailgun. Construction adhesive to the rescue.
My point is, take your time with the little details, (some that are not in the book) it's the difference between a professional looking job, and a homeowner job. There's a handful of ways and steps to applying trim, the author of these books shows you what works for them, there is not a written in stone standard. But most of us take the same path, just some of us walk on the left, and some on the right.
It sounds like you're windows do not have casing trim around them? And the sheetrock wraps around from the wall in towards the window? I had a few sheetrocked openings in my house when I bought it and dressed them out pretty nice with little hassle and a big reward...oh yeah, the wife was happy too.