Quarter Round Trim Into Kitchen Cabs - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quarter Round Trim Into Kitchen Cabs

I installed a snap together floating floor made by Armstrong in my kitchen. I'm ready to run the quarter round that came with it, some pressed paper type of mystery material with a color coordinated facing. I will be attaching it onto two different types of surfaces, the black trim at the bottom front of the cabinet which I believe is vinyl faced pressed board and the bottom side of the cabinets which are a very thin plywood with a picture of oak. I'm planning on pre-drilling the holes in the round and attaching to the sides of these so the floor can float in and out under it. Neither of these materials seem very suitable to drive finishing nails through them. I dont' want to use any glue in case I need to change the floor at some point. Is there some kind of trick to it or do you just drive normal finishing nails and be done with it?
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 03:27 PM
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Nail gun. I use a 26? 26?g nail, the tiny ones with no head. I think it is 23 anyway. Just nail it to the cabinets so the floor can move. I always hate the 1/4 round stuff and use it as little as possible. Whenever I do a floor I rip out all of the baseboards/kick plates run the flooring, then use the base' kick to cover the gap.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 05:46 PM
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Smata,
The pin nailer would work, although I would still use a little bit of glue, as they are not made to really hold that much. Use a thin smear of titebond II or III. You also mention the black area under the front of the cabinet. That is the toekick area and is normally covered by a thin strip (1/8") with the matching finish to the rest of the cabinets. It is affectionately called 'toekick material'.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 06:36 PM
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nailing

From the sounds of your post, I'm guessing you don't have a compressor and nailer. Pre-drill the nail holes (slightly smaller than the nail) and go for it. That should prevent any blow outs in what sounds like unstable materials. Russ
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I did not describe the install as well as I could, the cabinets were existing and the flooring runs up to it leaving about 1/4" gap that I'm going to use the round to close. Right now, stuff falls off the edge of the flooring into it and looks bad, underpad is also exposed. So predrilled finishing nails, no special nails for this? I do not have a compressor or nailer. How about driving the nails at opposite angles as I go along, any benefit to that? Any glue on this thing I believe would tear up the cabinets if the quarter round would need to go. The flooring is the type that has a surprisingly good picture of spanish tile on it, visitors have bent down to touch it not believing when I've told them its fake. The cabinets, well, they couldn't be built more flimsily, bottom of the line Merillat.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-12-2009, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smata67 View Post
Maybe I did not describe the install as well as I could, the cabinets were existing and the flooring runs up to it leaving about 1/4" gap that I'm going to use the round to close. Right now, stuff falls off the edge of the flooring into it and looks bad, underpad is also exposed. So predrilled finishing nails, no special nails for this? I do not have a compressor or nailer. How about driving the nails at opposite angles as I go along, any benefit to that? Any glue on this thing I believe would tear up the cabinets if the quarter round would need to go. The flooring is the type that has a surprisingly good picture of spanish tile on it, visitors have bent down to touch it not believing when I've told them its fake. The cabinets, well, they couldn't be built more flimsily, bottom of the line Merillat.
If you have a 1/4 inch gap it shouldn't be that much of a problem if I understand it correctly. What size quater round are you using? 7/16?....5/8?...Just use something wide enough to cover the gap and as has been sstated, you can drive your nails into the toe kick. If the cabinets are as flimsy as you are saying then you likely don't need to worry too terribly much about driving your finish nails right in. Just pre-drill some hole as have been suggested and you'd be good to go.

I also agree with Mike that a little glue would help.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-13-2009, 09:08 AM
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I would also say use glue. If you have to take it off later, you can use a utility knife to cut the glue loose. If you don't use the glue or something else to hold it, it will look just as bad as not having the 1/4 round when it is pulling away.

Assumption is the mother of all foul -ups
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-13-2009, 09:21 AM
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One other thing I was just thinking of after reading the current posts; If you are going to hand nail, even pre-drilling, be careful where you place your nails. I have pulled out enough merrilat's and the toekicks are normally just film covered particle boards like the sides. Try to get your nail close to the corners, within a couple of inches. When you try to nail in the centers of the kicks or sides, you may have a hard time seating the nails. You tend to get a lot of bounce or rebound here. One other option you might want to consider is to use a piece of matching wood for the toekicks. Rip a piece of 1 x stock to fit the height (usually around 4 1/2"), prestain and finish it, and nail it in place, still watching where you place your nails. The only place you would need your shoe mold is on a cabinet side that is exposed. For a short piece like that, you could even use some liquid nails sparingly, tape it in place with blue painter's tape and you would be all set. By the time you decide you have to change the floor again, I can guarantee you those cabinets will be ready for replacement. By then, you will probably be wanting to build your own.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-13-2009, 09:49 AM
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base

Another thought....if you have trouble with the center areas of the quarter round not drawing up to the cabinet, then try a trim screw (finishing screw). They have a small head and work very well. The local Borg should carry them. Mine does. Russ
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-14-2009, 02:28 AM
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It will not take much to hold quarter round on. If you don't have a "pin tacker" as scribbles said, I would either run a very tiny bead of cheap hot glue along the quarter round (or ovulo) in the bottom third and stick it on. Someone you know must have one.

Or else a thin bead of silicone, again down low, and shove some weights against it till it dries. You are probably not going to be able to hand nail that on without destroying the cabinets or having the nail heads all sticking out.

If you need to replace the floor, just run a sheet rock knife behind the 1/4 round to remove it. New quarter round will cover any damage from the adhesive.

Experience is something you get only just right after you needed it.
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-14-2009, 03:44 PM
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Clampman,
I forgot about the silicone sealer. I do that from time to time. That would work well and come off if necessary down the road. Hot glue's not a bad idea either. I think the silicone would be less forgiving.
Mike Hawkins
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-14-2009, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I guess at one time I had to do something similar (nailing 1/4 round) and remembered it being a real pain in the a$$ which is why I posted. True, it will be impossible to do hammering with the tight clearance to the floor and the flimsy toe board. The finishing screws (which I've looked for, but could not find locally) would also be an ordeal to drive in, though better idea than the nails. The wood glue and hot melt glue would hold so well that when the time came to pull it off, would most likely cause a great deal of damage--this is low quality stuff looks like vinyl paper glued onto particle board. Silicon caulking it will be with bricks pushing the quarter into the adhering surface. I had also thought of using a combination of the silicon and screws, but this stuff might expand and if I have fixed ends, bow out. I'll post a picture when I'm done.
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