Quarter Round Curves on base cabinet - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-02-2011, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Question Quarter Round Curves on base cabinet

I have a gap under an end cabinet and would like to use 11/16x11/16 quarter round to cover the gap. The cabinet has a straight run of 14 inches and then curves on a 6.25" radius for another 11 inches. How do I make a straight quarter round bend around that curve?
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-03-2011, 05:51 AM
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The go-to method at our shop dosen't involve any "bending",not that theres anything wrong with that,haha.

As such,I'd say you need to make a pattern for the sake of checking that radius......not gonna use this pattern for making the pce,....huh?Nope,cause if you have the tools/smarts to make the pattern you'd use those same tools/techniques to layout the wood.From a metrology standpoint its more accurate.....using a pattern introduces error.

So,see if you can lay it out...cut it...and fit it in heavy card stock.Then use your brain and see how that excersize can be translated to the TOOLS/EQUIP YOU HAVE.Which is sorta the 64k$ question really isn't it?Good luck,BW

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post #3 of 13 Old 11-03-2011, 07:28 AM
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This is a procedure to make curved moulding, that is of any profile. If what you want is larger or longer than the solid stock you have, or it's too much to make it out of solid stock, this might work for you. I came up with this method many years ago out of necessity, with excellent results. The idea with this is you will be needing two (2) lengths of identical moulding "A" and "B", to make curved piece "C". Keep in mind this is a lamination method and the final moulding will have varied grain due to it being laminated from two different pieces of wood.

As you see in the drawings, "C" is cut to be glued up and installed along its left side. You can start with buying two identical pieces of moulding or make them. The drawings for this explanation are segmented into 1/8" sections, to facilitate the use of an 1/8" kerf cut. Most woods will bend well in 1/8" thickness. Each segment of "A" and "B" represent a "save" or "saw kerf".

The cross hatched segments represent a "saw kerf". So, after slicing on the TS the segments of both "A" and "B", you will save the segments "a" from "B", "b" from "A", "c" from "B", "d" from "A", etc, for the rest of the profile.

When you have the "saved" segments they will get glued up to form "C" moulding. They can be glued up and clamped all at once or a few at a time. It's imperative to align the moulding up so the profile will be consistent.

Taller curves can be created by just vertically stacking one or more profiles, provided you have made forms for the moulding to glue to. Segments that are covered by another segment can be pin nailed if necessary.









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post #4 of 13 Old 11-03-2011, 10:04 AM
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With a little piece of quarter round, you could steam it over a pot of boiling water on the stove top. Might help to remove some of the square corner on the back of the molding where it won't show. You could also cut a series of close together saw kerfs on the back so they don't show.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-03-2011, 11:53 AM
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6.25" radius and 11", would mean you have more than a 90 degree angle through which the curve runs, actually close to a 180 degrees? Sounds wrong?

Still, it's a very small piece.

Not sure what tools are at your disposal, but in my shop the fastest way to do this would be to cut the outside curve from a board on the bandsaw, sand the curve smooth on a disk sander, router or mold the round, then cut the inside curve on the bandsaw as the 2nd last step. Last step is sanding the inside curve on a spindle sander. No more than 20 minutes to do the whole thing.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 06:24 AM
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Depending on the size, length and design of the profile, You could cut the section from solid stock and then profile it, before or after attaching it. Some profiles need a flat to follow for the bearing. Some profiles don't have a bearing. It may be necessary to create a guide for a router base, or a guide for it to be machined on a router table.

In steam bending and soaking, there is a dimensional problem in that when steamed or soaked the wood will expand, and when it dries out, will shrink. Some figuring has to be used to determine what the wood may do, and allow for springback. Whether the profile is machined before or after steaming or soaking would be determined on the actual wood used, and access to being machined.

Details for what species the OP is asking about weren't given, so coming up with a specific method is difficult.






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post #7 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 06:24 PM
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You will not be able to use quarter round even steamed unless you dice it up like cabinetman says. It will twist when you try to bend it, and not the way you want it to. Shoe molding and quarter round are two different things.

Shoe molding is taller than it is thick. I would just use rubber shoe molding and paint it. Do a search for flexible molding.

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post #8 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 08:04 PM
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I have used some quarter-round that's pretty flexible - I think it was the fake stuff, not real wood - but after being painted it matched everything else just fine.
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 08:15 PM
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hey guy, what do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhappleby View Post
I have a gap under an end cabinet and would like to use 11/16x11/16 quarter round to cover the gap. The cabinet has a straight run of 14 inches and then curves on a 6.25" radius for another 11 inches. How do I make a straight quarter round bend around that curve?
OP is MIA.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
OP is MIA.....
He had some errands to run and some shopping to do. Members can still read this thread.








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post #11 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 08:48 PM
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Yeah

I talk to myself frequently.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-05-2011, 09:05 PM
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Just glue up a pc wide enough to cut it out. Cut and sand the outside radius and router it. Then use a bandsaw and cut the inside radius. The all you have to do is install.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-22-2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhappleby View Post
I have a gap under an end cabinet and would like to use 11/16x11/16 quarter round to cover the gap. The cabinet has a straight run of 14 inches and then curves on a 6.25" radius for another 11 inches. How do I make a straight quarter round bend around that curve?

Just glue up some 1/16" strips and rout the profile you need. If I find I need a more complicated radiused edge I'll mount it on the lath and turn.
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Last edited by JAGWAH; 11-22-2011 at 10:47 AM. Reason: bad spelling
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