Please help me. how do you make curves? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 40 Old 11-06-2011, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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not the 1hp one.... i bought the $50 one though.
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post #22 of 40 Old 11-06-2011, 04:55 AM
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You'll probably find that a 1/2", 1/2HP shaper is too small. For edge work, a good sized router will outperform that small shaper. Tooling will likely be less expensive. I would prefer the faster speed of a router over a shaper for edge work.

Moving up to a shaper with the option of multiple spindle sizes of 3/4" and larger would be a substantial investment.






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post #23 of 40 Old 11-06-2011, 06:34 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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the $50.00 one ?

How about a brand name, a description, a HP rating? a spindle size? Not enough info to be useful with just"the $50.00 one"
Here's a thread with links on the Craftsman 1/2" shaper. I have one, it was a gift. I've used it just a few times, but it's smooth running. I put a 1 HP motor on it.
I prefer to use my router table over the shaper because as suggested the cutters are expensive and the router bits are cheaper and more available.
In your case it would become a dedicated tool for making the skateboards so you'll only need the 2" tall cutter. I would not invest any more money if it's the one I referred to above. But I don't know if it is at this point.
Looks like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-CRAFTSMA...-/270807822120
Another thread: http://woodworking.com/forum/showthr...del-113.23940&

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-21-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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post #24 of 40 Old 11-07-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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yes looks like the first link. All i need is a 2" cutter. I couldnt find any bits for a router that would give me 3/4" above the table that my template could rub on.. much like a live collar can with a shaper.

I tried using various bits with a router, but nothing was ever tall enough
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post #25 of 40 Old 11-21-2011, 06:46 PM
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may be too late, but I would draw up the plans to exact dimensions and have someone CNC me up a plastic/teflon/etc master (i would not use mdf or any other wood, plastic will last much longer).

then you can rough cut with bandsaw and use the plastic template as a guide to flush cut with router table/by hand as others have said.
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post #26 of 40 Old 11-22-2011, 07:15 AM
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I had one done out of Lexan, using a cnc and a 5" thick block to start, and we considered doing molds and using a carbonate with a steel spine in it. The original cost us nearly $600,oo to get machined out and without the steel , it was too flexible and also quite heavy. Intent was to make one that was unbreakable. We succeeded there.
We parked a car on it for 24 hours and the thing sprung right back (w/o steel)

In wood I would think the biggest issue would be to get the multiple layering of plywoods glued and pressed into shape and stable for long term abuse. The center of the boards are not flat, and the sides have some curve up on them as well. The edge rounding and hole drilling seems like the lesser issue.
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post #27 of 40 Old 11-22-2011, 07:55 AM
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Plywood or wood, or composite templates (patterns) that are used with a router with a bearing, can have a much extended life by just laminating the edge with HPL (a Formica type laminate).








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post #28 of 40 Old 11-22-2011, 08:16 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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not enough shaper...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason7 View Post
yes looks like the first link. All i need is a 2" cutter. I couldnt find any bits for a router that would give me 3/4" above the table that my template could rub on.. much like a live collar can with a shaper.

I tried using various bits with a router, but nothing was ever tall enough
This is his shaper with a 1/2" spindle AFAICT:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=5488

You can make a template out Graham crackers or Unobtainium, it won't matter if the shaper is the weak link and you can't get a tall enough cutter in the 1/2" size.
This sounds like a one person operation with limited production, AFAICT, so some bulletproof template won't really matter since it won't wear out...if it can't be used. The OP may have taken a walk on this idea since there's no response in 10 days.

jason7
How about posting back in here and let us know where you are in the whole process? bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #29 of 40 Old 11-22-2011, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingersdown7togo View Post
may be too late, but I would draw up the plans to exact dimensions and have someone CNC me up a plastic/teflon/etc master (i would not use mdf or any other wood, plastic will last much longer).

then you can rough cut with bandsaw and use the plastic template as a guide to flush cut with router table/by hand as others have said.
Yes that is what I'm hoping to do, but I'm not sure how to measure the deck of an already finished board, to give measurements to a cnc guy (such as the radial of the nose and tail)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
Plywood or wood, or composite templates (patterns) that are used with a router with a bearing, can have a much extended life by just laminating the edge with HPL (a Formica type laminate).
That sounds like a great idea!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvark View Post
I had one done out of Lexan, using a cnc and a 5" thick block to start, and we considered doing molds and using a carbonate with a steel spine in it. The original cost us nearly $600,oo to get machined out and without the steel , it was too flexible and also quite heavy. Intent was to make one that was unbreakable. We succeeded there.
We parked a car on it for 24 hours and the thing sprung right back (w/o steel)

In wood I would think the biggest issue would be to get the multiple layering of plywoods glued and pressed into shape and stable for long term abuse. The center of the boards are not flat, and the sides have some curve up on them as well. The edge rounding and hole drilling seems like the lesser issue.


The issues with getting the plys pressed into shape isn't hard for me. I've got that part of the problem mastered. Now is just the cutting/shaping of the finished product.
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post #30 of 40 Old 11-22-2011, 03:04 PM
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Look at 2:55 minutes in

It shows the rub collar and shaper cutter. The rub collar is on top of the cutter and the pattern/template is on top of the work piece. As he pushes the template against the collar he also pushes down on the ends tipping the work so it stays vertical to the cutter. This allows the use of a 1" tall cutter, so you don't really need a 2" cutter ..... You may be in luck with your 1/2" Craftsman shaper after all.




The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-22-2011 at 03:35 PM.
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post #31 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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then what is the thing they have on top of the cutter in the video? Ive never seen that
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post #32 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason7 View Post
then what is the thing they have on top of the cutter in the video? Ive never seen that
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
It shows the rub collar and shaper cutter. The rub collar is on top of the cutter and the pattern/template is on top of the work piece. As he pushes the template against the collar he also pushes down on the ends tipping the work so it stays vertical to the cutter. This allows the use of a 1" tall cutter, so you don't really need a 2" cutter ..... You may be in luck with your 1/2" Craftsman shaper after all.

Skateboard - How its made - YouTube


You had your answer about 1 year ago. What happened to you for a year?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #33 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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sadly ive been out of cash and havent been able to continue. however, ive been able to net more cash and i can finally move on and finalize all this. the only thing that remains is making a template for the shape, and figuring this cutter out.

i didnt see the answer for what they call the thing on top of the cutter

if its a rub collar, then i havent seen any that look similar

Last edited by jason7; 10-20-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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post #34 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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I just always see the "bearing" looking ones that are very small
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post #35 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason7 View Post
sadly ive been out of cash and havent been able to continue.
It doesn't cost anything to stay in touch.





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post #36 of 40 Old 10-20-2012, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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very true. i plan on being a regular on here. i really enjoy woodworking. always have.. even way back in HS and JHS i loved woodshop.
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post #37 of 40 Old 10-31-2012, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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bump
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post #38 of 40 Old 11-02-2012, 08:38 AM
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PLEASE be very careful working with shapers and having little to no experience....shapers and table saws are the two most accident prone machines in any shop I know of...I have seen a lot of fingers fly from both over the years....SERIOUS SAFETY is required....without some type of feeder mechanism all it takes is one wrong move and the shaper will take your work peice and possibly your hand/arm and do unspeakable things to them. Rub collars, bearings, blade safety disks can be found at many places....one of my favorite classical shaper comapines is weaver....two Mininite brothers build some awesome durable shapers and accesories here is the link...

www.weaver-sales.com I have dealt with them for years and always been treated as if I was there only customer....great company....you can find some of their used machines on auction sites and used machinery sites such as www.exfactory.com

good luck
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post #39 of 40 Old 10-19-2013, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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so what parts should i get? I like whats in that video at 3 minutes

my craftsman shaper is a 113.12161 model
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post #40 of 40 Old 10-29-2013, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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cananyone provide me what i need to make this work? I've been trying to figure out how to raise the cutter on the table, but can't figure it out. Going to find a pdf of the manual hopefully!... that is if it's not too old of a machine haha.

If anyone can provide me a 'shopping list' haha... i'd be more than thankful!

Also, my shaper only has the wooden rail that the workpiece would ride against while using the shaper, but no guards or anything. I would like to hear some ideas on guards and how to build a good one. I plan on doing the exact setup that's in the video. Ill be making the template that will bolt in from the top into the predilled holes of the work piece ill be doing.
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