Picture Frame Wainscoting - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 09:26 AM
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The workmanship looks very good although I think you complicated the job way to much. all your mitres can be cut on a Chop saw on the job site.
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post #22 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Most all the miters were cut on a chopsaw. The obtuse and acute angles were cut on the tablesaw. You just don't get the crispness of cut and beautiful match when you do the acute angles on the chopsaw.

Plus I try to do everything I can in the shop, much more efficient as long as you have good measurements.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #23 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 10:30 AM
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You absolutely can! You just need to know how.
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post #24 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Well do tell pray tell. I've been at it for 20 years now and done it all sorts of ways. The cabinet saw is the best way to get a crisp clean perfect joint.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #25 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 11:32 AM
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can't wait to hear this response. Am being a little mouse sitting in the corner listening to it all....lol
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post #26 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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I know how to do it. There are 2 ways. But neither of them have the stability of the sled on a TS

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #27 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 02:51 PM
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I am not saying you are wrong but I've done the same things literally hundreds of times , I would have the whole thing done before you could make up the templates and take them home to your shop. If you can get the money then go for it anyway you want. It looks good but I doubt you could tell the difference between yours and mine.
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post #28 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Most all the miters were cut on a chopsaw. The obtuse and acute angles were cut on the tablesaw. You just don't get the crispness of cut and beautiful match when you do the acute angles on the chopsaw.

Plus I try to do everything I can in the shop, much more efficient as long as you have good measurements.
I do not understand. If you have the same quality blade on the table saw and the chop saw, then why would you not get the same quality?

I have cut angles on both and really do not see any difference. Now I actually have a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (SCMS) but do not see where that would be any different than a Chop Saw.

George
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post #29 of 49 Old 11-25-2012, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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I have a SCMS myself and their is no comparison in the stability between a SCMS and a sliding sled on a TS.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #30 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdskydiver View Post
I am not saying you are wrong but I've done the same things literally hundreds of times , I would have the whole thing done before you could make up the templates and take them home to your shop. If you can get the money then go for it anyway you want. It looks good but I doubt you could tell the difference between yours and mine.

We all have our own way imdikedriver...........

What works,or so you say, works for you.....does not work for everyone....


I use my TS as well for those type of sharp angles ,....you should try it....

Works very well.....




B,
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post #31 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:21 PM
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We all have our own way imdikedriver...........

What works,or so you say, works for you.....does not work for everyone....

I use my TS as well for those type of sharp angles ,....you should try it....

Works very well.....

B,
I don't have enough free time on my hands to try such foolishness .
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post #32 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:23 PM
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I'm so sorry to hear that........



Best of luck to you.....



B,
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post #33 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:27 PM
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I'm so sorry to hear that........

Best of luck to you.....

B,
I don't need it.
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post #34 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:28 PM
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Okey-dokey......



B,
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post #35 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Got any pics of your work, with close ups included?

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #36 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 10:38 PM
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I just think Imadikedriver likes to chop his miters......,

It's all good.....


Seems he's a little hostile about how we should cut miters.......


Someone needs a hug..............




B,
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post #37 of 49 Old 12-20-2012, 11:46 PM
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I was told a rule in this place: "no pictures, it didn't happen."
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post #38 of 49 Old 12-22-2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bweick7
I just think Imadikedriver likes to chop his miters......,

It's all good.....

Seems he's a little hostile about how we should cut miters.......

Someone needs a hug..............

B,
Cut miters anyway you want. If you want to spend twice the time doing it your way go ahead. I'll take the extra money and put it in my pocket.
I cut a 45 degree block and put my moulding along side of it and then set my miter saw at 20* + or - which usually works for a stairway with a rise of 7 1/2 " and a run of 9".it 's quick and accurate and I don 't have to make any jigs.
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post #39 of 49 Old 12-22-2012, 05:26 PM
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Question

Pictures.........



B,
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post #40 of 49 Old 12-22-2012, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Just did another. Made the jig, took 2 minutes to cut the jig insert. Did the rest of my business at the house. Next day went to the shop and put the insert in the sled and screwed the fences in position (acute angle), took 2 tries to get the miters even, about 4 minutes. Then I cut my pcs, all the left sides on the moldings about 6 minutes. Reset the fences for the obtuse angle and got lucky, 1st try, 2 minutes. Then cut the other side of the molding. I was able to use the fence on the TS. Another 6 minutes. I glued them together with yellow glue and 2P-10, about 6 minutes to glue each pc up. Done. Now they get primed and then I go to the clients house and install them on the wall in about 1/2 hour. The only cutting that will occur is for the chair railing, another 1/2 hour.

And the angled pcs came out perfect the first time, no fuss no muss no guessing no worrying. And they are having me do lots more work. Because they like my methods.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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