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post #21 of 26 Old 12-02-2010, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cabinetman

What else doesn't look bad is to 45 degree the face of the end of the trim where it ends. Looks more like it belongs than just a straight cut.

The easiest way to do this is as follows.your bevel gauge on these angles will give You an acute reading.but You know it's obtuse. However use the reading and set the saw at that anyway but instead of putting the molding longest to fence like you normally would you come straight in to the fence at 90 degrees. If you put a framing square or square block of wood against your fence and set molding against square the molding pointing against fence.make cut gives you that long tapered cut your looking for.I made a plywood fence for saw and then a piece of plywood with a piece nailed to it like an L .This piece slides along base parallel to fence. This helps having molding sucked forward when you make cut
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post #22 of 26 Old 05-29-2011, 07:44 PM
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i am trying to cut molding for the stairs and it needs to be a paralallogram. the angle to the stairs is 42 degrees. I have figured out that i set the miter saw at 21 degrees for the 2 opposite corners and that i need to cut 69 degrees for the other 2 and i use a precut 45 degree scarf board. but the miters aren't matching up and have quite a gap. i don't know what i am doing wrong. could someone give advice?
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post #23 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 07:59 AM
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If you used something like the pic below then youre almost there. I like to cut test pieces to make sure they fit nice and tight. Several different angles. (70,69,68). If those are way off then your jig isn't 45*, your math is off, or you're moving the piece when cut.

Hope that helps.
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post #24 of 26 Old 06-03-2011, 07:16 AM
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Good luck!
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post #25 of 26 Old 06-05-2011, 11:09 PM
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Thanks Craftsman jay for your reply. I managed to do some nice paralellograms, but my new problem is that the first parallelogram at the bottom of the stairs and last parallelogram at the top of the stairs needs to have one side parallel to the corner/ edge of the wall (which is vertical). If not it slants away from the vertical edge of the wall at the bottom and towards the vertical edge of the wall at the doesn't look right. The only way I can figure it is to extend the top rail on the parallelogram at the top of the stairs and cut this end at a 45 angle with a 35 miter and cut the top end of the vertical at a 30 and fill in the void with wood filler. This was for the top one and I intend to do the opposite for the bottom one. It took me all day to figure this out but there has to be a neater and faster way to figure this out. In other words these two parallelograms are no lone parallelograms but some other weird shaped rectangle that I don't know the name of.
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post #26 of 26 Old 07-07-2011, 12:29 PM
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Take a look at Jay's second picture above. That is how you eliminate those odd shaped panels.

When coming into any corner with a board or molding that is on an angle (like the stairs for instance), you must first miter that board or molding so it is perpendicular to the corner before going around it, whether it is an inside or outside corner.

To be truthful, I don't have a clue what you are talking about, however. Are the boards between your panels (stiles) vertical?


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Last edited by clampman; 07-07-2011 at 12:34 PM.
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